F60 Differenctial oil change
The differential only has a fill plug...no drain. So, it's a matter of getting a new fill plug, sticking a tube into the differential and aspirating whatever volume you can get, and refilling with the SAME VOLUME you removed. Unlike MOST differentials, this is NOT a "fill until it runs out" process. It will be over-filled if you fill until it runs out.. The differential fluid is a 70w80 concoction that costs about 80.00 for half a liter. When I did the two F60's I've had, I believe I was able to get right at 350 mL aspirated out of each one. So, 350 went back in. No fluid ran out of the fill hole of either one.
8-speed auto is what both of my F60's have. I did a drain-and-refill. I did NOT have the correct tool to bring the trans temp up to the specified temp where the standpipe defines the correct level when the car is running (and I believe in park after shifting through the gears). Another hard thing about doing it this way is the car is supposed to be running...but you have to take the airbox out to get to the fill plug. I guess you over-fill it so you don't have to go back in and take everything apart again if you didn't have quite enough? Expensive fluid to purposefully put too much in. Instead, I did a similar drain, measure, and refill with exactly the same volume of fluid...and both the drain and the fill fluid were exactly the same temperature. I did this by draining the fluid after not driving for over-night, and the new fluid was stored right by the car. Doing it this way, I can drain about 2.75 quarts. I put that much back in...go drive a while, and repeat the overnight parking and do it again. I probably only replace about 1/2 of the total volume. But, these are "lifetime" fluids, so what I do is better than nothing.
That leaves us with two more fluids. Transfer case and "Hang-on-clutch" (assuming you have All4 system). I've never done either because the instructions I find say the viscosity of the new fluids must be programmed into the computer after their respective changes. The transfer case fluid is going to be an "aspirate and refill" similar to the differential. I'm not sure about the Hang-on-clutch (this is located just in front of the rear differential). If I end up keeping the car for what I'd guess would be 75,000-100,000 miles, I'll probably have both of these done at a shop at about 50,000 miles. Again, both are "lifetime fluids", although I certainly don't trust the transfer case fluid to last in very good condition much past 100,000 miles.
The drained Rear Diff fluid was very nice in appearance, as was the transmission fluid....both looked very much like the new replacement fluid. Both cars were done with about 30,000 miles on them So, at 30,000 miles I'd say you are WELL ahead of taking good care of those fluids. Perhaps 50,000 miles would be more than sufficient.
Hope this helped!
8-speed auto is what both of my F60's have. I did a drain-and-refill. I did NOT have the correct tool to bring the trans temp up to the specified temp where the standpipe defines the correct level when the car is running (and I believe in park after shifting through the gears). Another hard thing about doing it this way is the car is supposed to be running...but you have to take the airbox out to get to the fill plug. I guess you over-fill it so you don't have to go back in and take everything apart again if you didn't have quite enough? Expensive fluid to purposefully put too much in. Instead, I did a similar drain, measure, and refill with exactly the same volume of fluid...and both the drain and the fill fluid were exactly the same temperature. I did this by draining the fluid after not driving for over-night, and the new fluid was stored right by the car. Doing it this way, I can drain about 2.75 quarts. I put that much back in...go drive a while, and repeat the overnight parking and do it again. I probably only replace about 1/2 of the total volume. But, these are "lifetime" fluids, so what I do is better than nothing.
That leaves us with two more fluids. Transfer case and "Hang-on-clutch" (assuming you have All4 system). I've never done either because the instructions I find say the viscosity of the new fluids must be programmed into the computer after their respective changes. The transfer case fluid is going to be an "aspirate and refill" similar to the differential. I'm not sure about the Hang-on-clutch (this is located just in front of the rear differential). If I end up keeping the car for what I'd guess would be 75,000-100,000 miles, I'll probably have both of these done at a shop at about 50,000 miles. Again, both are "lifetime fluids", although I certainly don't trust the transfer case fluid to last in very good condition much past 100,000 miles.
The drained Rear Diff fluid was very nice in appearance, as was the transmission fluid....both looked very much like the new replacement fluid. Both cars were done with about 30,000 miles on them So, at 30,000 miles I'd say you are WELL ahead of taking good care of those fluids. Perhaps 50,000 miles would be more than sufficient.
Hope this helped!
Last edited by Mini-Titan; Oct 10, 2024 at 11:25 AM. Reason: clarity
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Also note that my 2019 JCW Countryman compared to my 2020 JCW Countryman, there was a change in Transmission fluid from ATF 6 to ATF 7. I know the 2020 has a much firmer shift feel...so there is perhaps a different friction coefficient used in the two versions of ATF. Make sure you get the right one for your vehicle.
Capacities
Thank you for the good information.
any body know the amount a type of fluids for :
Automatic Transmission, I believe this AT is 7 liters but I not sure.
Transfer case
Rear differential
Front differential
any body know the amount a type of fluids for :
Automatic Transmission, I believe this AT is 7 liters but I not sure.
Transfer case
Rear differential
Front differential
If you are doing a drain/refill, I only get about 3.5 quarts out. Transfer case, I don't know, but it's an "aspirate and refill" job, which is definitely less than a quart. Rear diff is an aspirate and refill...which is about 350 ml (the 70w80 fluid comes in a 500 ml bottle, and is expensive!). Don't know anything about the front differential. But, these cars also have a Hold-on-Clutch fluid just in front of the rear differential.
I've read that there may be coding involved when changing either the Transfer Case or HOC fluids...apparently the computer/sensors are very picky about current viscosity...
I've read that there may be coding involved when changing either the Transfer Case or HOC fluids...apparently the computer/sensors are very picky about current viscosity...
Last edited by Mini-Titan; Oct 23, 2024 at 02:25 AM. Reason: add
The differential only has a fill plug...no drain. So, it's a matter of getting a new fill plug, sticking a tube into the differential and aspirating whatever volume you can get, and refilling with the SAME VOLUME you removed. Unlike MOST differentials, this is NOT a "fill until it runs out" process. It will be over-filled if you fill until it runs out.. The differential fluid is a 70w80 concoction that costs about 80.00 for half a liter. When I did the two F60's I've had, I believe I was able to get right at 350 mL aspirated out of each one. So, 350 went back in. No fluid ran out of the fill hole of either one.
8-speed auto is what both of my F60's have. I did a drain-and-refill. I did NOT have the correct tool to bring the trans temp up to the specified temp where the standpipe defines the correct level when the car is running (and I believe in park after shifting through the gears). Another hard thing about doing it this way is the car is supposed to be running...but you have to take the airbox out to get to the fill plug. I guess you over-fill it so you don't have to go back in and take everything apart again if you didn't have quite enough? Expensive fluid to purposefully put too much in. Instead, I did a similar drain, measure, and refill with exactly the same volume of fluid...and both the drain and the fill fluid were exactly the same temperature. I did this by draining the fluid after not driving for over-night, and the new fluid was stored right by the car. Doing it this way, I can drain about 2.75 quarts. I put that much back in...go drive a while, and repeat the overnight parking and do it again. I probably only replace about 1/2 of the total volume. But, these are "lifetime" fluids, so what I do is better than nothing.
That leaves us with two more fluids. Transfer case and "Hang-on-clutch" (assuming you have All4 system). I've never done either because the instructions I find say the viscosity of the new fluids must be programmed into the computer after their respective changes. The transfer case fluid is going to be an "aspirate and refill" similar to the differential. I'm not sure about the Hang-on-clutch (this is located just in front of the rear differential). If I end up keeping the car for what I'd guess would be 75,000-100,000 miles, I'll probably have both of these done at a shop at about 50,000 miles. Again, both are "lifetime fluids", although I certainly don't trust the transfer case fluid to last in very good condition much past 100,000 miles.
The drained Rear Diff fluid was very nice in appearance, as was the transmission fluid....both looked very much like the new replacement fluid. Both cars were done with about 30,000 miles on them So, at 30,000 miles I'd say you are WELL ahead of taking good care of those fluids. Perhaps 50,000 miles would be more than sufficient.
Hope this helped!
8-speed auto is what both of my F60's have. I did a drain-and-refill. I did NOT have the correct tool to bring the trans temp up to the specified temp where the standpipe defines the correct level when the car is running (and I believe in park after shifting through the gears). Another hard thing about doing it this way is the car is supposed to be running...but you have to take the airbox out to get to the fill plug. I guess you over-fill it so you don't have to go back in and take everything apart again if you didn't have quite enough? Expensive fluid to purposefully put too much in. Instead, I did a similar drain, measure, and refill with exactly the same volume of fluid...and both the drain and the fill fluid were exactly the same temperature. I did this by draining the fluid after not driving for over-night, and the new fluid was stored right by the car. Doing it this way, I can drain about 2.75 quarts. I put that much back in...go drive a while, and repeat the overnight parking and do it again. I probably only replace about 1/2 of the total volume. But, these are "lifetime" fluids, so what I do is better than nothing.
That leaves us with two more fluids. Transfer case and "Hang-on-clutch" (assuming you have All4 system). I've never done either because the instructions I find say the viscosity of the new fluids must be programmed into the computer after their respective changes. The transfer case fluid is going to be an "aspirate and refill" similar to the differential. I'm not sure about the Hang-on-clutch (this is located just in front of the rear differential). If I end up keeping the car for what I'd guess would be 75,000-100,000 miles, I'll probably have both of these done at a shop at about 50,000 miles. Again, both are "lifetime fluids", although I certainly don't trust the transfer case fluid to last in very good condition much past 100,000 miles.
The drained Rear Diff fluid was very nice in appearance, as was the transmission fluid....both looked very much like the new replacement fluid. Both cars were done with about 30,000 miles on them So, at 30,000 miles I'd say you are WELL ahead of taking good care of those fluids. Perhaps 50,000 miles would be more than sufficient.
Hope this helped!
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I have what is called a "weighted sump", which is a flexible plastic tube with metal weights at the end. (It's used in heart surgery and some other types of surgeries.) I've seen metal tubes bent at an angle, with a plastic hose attached to it. Something that can curve over the fill hole entry point and reach down toward the low-point works well.
Last edited by Mini-Titan; Jun 5, 2025 at 08:02 AM. Reason: clarity
I have what is called a "weighted sump", which is a flexible plastic tube with metal weights at the end. (It's used in heart surgery and some other types of surgeries.) I've seen metal tubes bent at an angle, with a plastic hose attached to it. Something that can curve over the fill hole entry point and reach down toward the low-point works well.
If you do the transfer case, let me know if you had to take some underside bracing/bracket off. I haven't yet found a 2020 YouTube on whether that's in the way on my model year. Thanks!
Last edited by Mini-Titan; Jun 5, 2025 at 06:51 PM. Reason: add
The differential only has a fill plug...no drain. So, it's a matter of getting a new fill plug, sticking a tube into the differential and aspirating whatever volume you can get, and refilling with the SAME VOLUME you removed. Unlike MOST differentials, this is NOT a "fill until it runs out" process. It will be over-filled if you fill until it runs out.. The differential fluid is a 70w80 concoction that costs about 80.00 for half a liter. When I did the two F60's I've had, I believe I was able to get right at 350 mL aspirated out of each one. So, 350 went back in. No fluid ran out of the fill hole of either one.
8-speed auto is what both of my F60's have. I did a drain-and-refill. I did NOT have the correct tool to bring the trans temp up to the specified temp where the standpipe defines the correct level when the car is running (and I believe in park after shifting through the gears). Another hard thing about doing it this way is the car is supposed to be running...but you have to take the airbox out to get to the fill plug. I guess you over-fill it so you don't have to go back in and take everything apart again if you didn't have quite enough? Expensive fluid to purposefully put too much in. Instead, I did a similar drain, measure, and refill with exactly the same volume of fluid...and both the drain and the fill fluid were exactly the same temperature. I did this by draining the fluid after not driving for over-night, and the new fluid was stored right by the car. Doing it this way, I can drain about 2.75 quarts. I put that much back in...go drive a while, and repeat the overnight parking and do it again. I probably only replace about 1/2 of the total volume. But, these are "lifetime" fluids, so what I do is better than nothing.
That leaves us with two more fluids. Transfer case and "Hang-on-clutch" (assuming you have All4 system). I've never done either because the instructions I find say the viscosity of the new fluids must be programmed into the computer after their respective changes. The transfer case fluid is going to be an "aspirate and refill" similar to the differential. I'm not sure about the Hang-on-clutch (this is located just in front of the rear differential). If I end up keeping the car for what I'd guess would be 75,000-100,000 miles, I'll probably have both of these done at a shop at about 50,000 miles. Again, both are "lifetime fluids", although I certainly don't trust the transfer case fluid to last in very good condition much past 100,000 miles.
The drained Rear Diff fluid was very nice in appearance, as was the transmission fluid....both looked very much like the new replacement fluid. Both cars were done with about 30,000 miles on them So, at 30,000 miles I'd say you are WELL ahead of taking good care of those fluids. Perhaps 50,000 miles would be more than sufficient.
Hope this helped!
8-speed auto is what both of my F60's have. I did a drain-and-refill. I did NOT have the correct tool to bring the trans temp up to the specified temp where the standpipe defines the correct level when the car is running (and I believe in park after shifting through the gears). Another hard thing about doing it this way is the car is supposed to be running...but you have to take the airbox out to get to the fill plug. I guess you over-fill it so you don't have to go back in and take everything apart again if you didn't have quite enough? Expensive fluid to purposefully put too much in. Instead, I did a similar drain, measure, and refill with exactly the same volume of fluid...and both the drain and the fill fluid were exactly the same temperature. I did this by draining the fluid after not driving for over-night, and the new fluid was stored right by the car. Doing it this way, I can drain about 2.75 quarts. I put that much back in...go drive a while, and repeat the overnight parking and do it again. I probably only replace about 1/2 of the total volume. But, these are "lifetime" fluids, so what I do is better than nothing.
That leaves us with two more fluids. Transfer case and "Hang-on-clutch" (assuming you have All4 system). I've never done either because the instructions I find say the viscosity of the new fluids must be programmed into the computer after their respective changes. The transfer case fluid is going to be an "aspirate and refill" similar to the differential. I'm not sure about the Hang-on-clutch (this is located just in front of the rear differential). If I end up keeping the car for what I'd guess would be 75,000-100,000 miles, I'll probably have both of these done at a shop at about 50,000 miles. Again, both are "lifetime fluids", although I certainly don't trust the transfer case fluid to last in very good condition much past 100,000 miles.
The drained Rear Diff fluid was very nice in appearance, as was the transmission fluid....both looked very much like the new replacement fluid. Both cars were done with about 30,000 miles on them So, at 30,000 miles I'd say you are WELL ahead of taking good care of those fluids. Perhaps 50,000 miles would be more than sufficient.
Hope this helped!
Last edited by Steve500; Aug 1, 2025 at 09:13 AM.
To change the fluid in the transfer case, I only had to remove the splash shield. No bracing was in the way for me.
i done mine , it was quite easy , auto transmission and only rear differential , need to do the hung on clutch and the front differential , if im not wrong
just beware for the auto transmission , get the temps through obd and drain a bit from underneath .
just beware for the auto transmission , get the temps through obd and drain a bit from underneath .
Last edited by GeoCS; Dec 1, 2025 at 05:54 AM.
you were able to clean the pickup filter on the pump of the rear differential?
i dont think is so mandatory to clean this filter , the oil replacement is the big deal on this kind of maintenance ,
but to be fair if i had better access , i would do even the filter , i remember at the old vw haldex some of them they were somehow clogged , it was like screen filter full of ***** ! not always ..
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