I’m no stranger to the mini world. I have rebuilt and owned 4 R53’s and my wife has a 2017 countryman S. I picked up a cheap 2014 Countryman S All4 6 speed manual this weekend because of a failed pressure plate/clutch assembly. He took it to our local indy shop which charges more than the dealer and I have their full report confirming what he states. Not having worked on this platform yet, a couple of questions.

1. I hate dual mass flywheels and have replaced all mine in the past with one piece however, is that a thing with these cars.

2. What else “should” I replace while everything is apart? Anytime I put an R53 in service mode, all sorts of gaskets and such were replaced because of known problem areas. I hate getting everything back together just to find out the oil dipstick tube has a leak and for $0.78, I could have replaced it.

 

So after ordering many parts and a lot of messing around, the clutch is changed. The dual mass flywheel was shot, the clutch was down to metal rivets, and the fatal shot was that the fork broke and bound up on the pressure plate. I just went with a Sachs dual mass flywheel and clutch, new fork, pivot ball, clutch master, line and slave and we are back in business. Many maintenance items along the way. New air/cabin filters, oil change, trans/transfer case/rear diff oil, the cooling system flushed until perfectly clear and new coolant, new serpentine belt and water pump pulley, brake fluid flush and brake service (no parts needed, everything over 90% but made sure everything moving freely as it should), new spark plugs and topped it off with some new 93 octane gas and a can of Sea Foam. The car started up on the first crank and runs really smoothly. The AC was not working and the compressor clutch was making some bad noises so I ordered off a new compressor. Test drive went smoothly once I got the heat shields in place and all appropriate sensors plugged in. I am really impressed for a car with 113,500 miles, there was no creaks, groans or rattles on the original suspension.
The AC still isn't working. We put the correct level of coolant in there. When we engage the compressor manually, I get cold air but I have the blinking AC light still on. Fuses in the cabin are fine. I have to check under the hood fuses still. My buddy has a Snap On scanner at work that he is going to bring home so we can dive a little deeper into it but since its only 30 degrees, we have a little time. I've put 100 miles on her so far without issue. Now that I know I have a good, reliable runner, on to the cosmetic restoration.


All set up and organized

I am perfectly capable of making stupid mistakes. I try and minimize the chances.

Split right through.

Original clutch worn down to metal.

You can see where the rivets were wearing on the pressure plate.

 

You'll have fun with that car. I was going to suggest looking at Clutchmasters. They offer single mass conversion kits.

Where did you end of having the work done? I too live in Rochester area.

 

Bit of work to bring the car back into good condition but you did good... Enjoy the car. You've earned it!

 

I did this at my house. A couple friends with different talents randomly showed up to hang out and help. I am blessed to have a large shop behind to play around in.

I considered going with a single mass flywheel but decided against it. As much as I hate dual mass, this one lasted 113,500 miles and I doubt I will have this car any where near that long. I have done a single mass conversion and hub sprung clutch on my BMW which is more track oriented, and while I enjoy the benefits in that car, I don't want to deal with flywheel chatter. This car is going to be a daily driver for me and so stockish it will stay.

 

A dual mass flywheel provides crankshaft dampening. And my exposure to dual mass flywheels in the Porsche world is they are not that heavy. Sure a single mass flywheel is lighter but it ain't light enough to matter for a street car. I don't know about flywheel chatter but transmission rattle can be a real annoying side effect.

 

My clutch fork did the same thing, I got 100K out of the stock clutch and the fork broke.

I went with stock dual mass for the feel. Most people loose the weight and go with clutch masters.

 

Made up some white vinyl graphics and installing them.

Finished product.

Removed old peeling plasti-dip on chrome rings, sanded, primed and painted.

Replaced broken rear light and blacked out chrome rings to match front.

Repaired all the curb rash and powder coated the wheels.

Mounted, balanced and installed. Getting rid of these tires. Way too small. Going to get 225/55-17 to replace.

Horrible corner markers and two completely broken and corroded.

Some new connector ends compliments of a donor mini behind the shop and new LED lights. Much brighter and visible.

 

After about 1000 miles on the car so far and it's been flawless. The AC compressor has been replaced, AC system charged up but it still didn't work. After lots of screwing around, the high speed fan fuse under the hood had been removed. My only guess is that it was removed when the compressor was making noise to disable the system. Back to the donor mini for fuses and we are blowing cold.

I do have a question to a problem I can't figure out. My second key fob locks and unlocks the car but will not start the car at all. Won't get the panel to light up. Any suggestions besides just using the fob that works?

 

That the fob won't allow the engine to start suggests the RFID pill that when signaled by the car's security system and should respond with its RFID is not working. Do you see any message something like "key not recognized". Or even just some symbol or warning light?

 

No messages whatsoever. Locks, unlocks, releases trunk and if I hold down the unlock button, it lowers the windows and opens the sunroof but the car doesn't recognize it when it's trying to start the car.

 

I suspect that it is an aftermarket key that has the remote functions programmed but has not actually been programmed to the car for starting. Remote function programming is a series of button pushing, while programming for starting requires a visit to the dealer or someone that has a key programmer in order to enter the new key into the cars ECU.

 

No, it's a genuine mini remote. I took it to mini last week but the person in the service department was clueless and gave the standard, "you need to order a new fob and have us program it for you" response.