I have this car, and it had a blown head gasket, I have it repaired and the head milled, put it all back together and it idles fine, but when I drive it I get this code 2DA2, I have taken off the valve cover 2 times to check timing and all is good, replaced the solenoids on both cams, replaced the intake cam gear and retimed the damn thing and I still get this code, driving me crazy, ad help would be appreciated, thanks

 

I just finish timing and currently going through the same!

 

I may be way off but I thought 2DA2 is the Exhaust Cam. I was getting 2DA0 which was the Intake CamShaft position. When it went back in, it was definitely a real issue, they replaced the VANOS sprocket as well as the timing chain, was it the issue, I don't know but that was a few 1000 miles ago and its running fantastic since then. The chain definitely needed it at 90k miles.

 

I have the 2da2 code too timing is on everytime.. tool slides in..

replaced vanos solenoid, sprockets, exhaust cam seal, new timing chain.
new oil pump and solenoid.

car runs smoothly nothing strange..
Please advise

 

So when I was getting the same codes I actually did need the timing chain replaced but when the shop did replace the chain, they also found that one of the Vanos sprockets was not working properly. I am not certain how to test the operation of the sprocket. I want to say the sprocket was like $300 and the independent shop says they do see them go bad from time to time and look closely at them when they are doing the timing chain replacement.

 

We did the Chain as well as new sprockets
The thing is we take off the valve cover and the timing is on .
When we drive the car for a bit it does go to limp mode with that code on 2da2

The car runs and Idles good...

 

Man, I am out of suggestions for you. Certainly there must be a way to read some more information on the sensors from live date which should point you in the correct direction.

<-Not sure if you have the new style chain tensioner. I forgot to add when I pulled my original out, it had fallen apart. The new one is longer and seemed to have more spring force.

 

We do have the new style tensioner..

We even put in the tensioner tool with the .6nm torque
we put the sprockets on finger tight the crank was loose too
we tightened the intake cam exhaust cam
then crank
with the right torque specs.

 

And you did of course also use the crankshaft locking tool and camshaft locking tools, making sure all flats stay centered in the cam locking tools as well, right? I don't know if it really matter, but I put shim stock in between the flats on the cam and their locking tools to makes sure they were centered. When I tightened to sprockets on the camshafts, I grabbed a non-ground surface of the cam shaft with some vice grips and applied counter torque via the vice grips while torquing the sprockets to spec. I didn't like the idea of slightly rotating the cam while tightening sprockets, using the cam lock tools to hold th cam flat to prevent rotation. Doing so seems to me to put the cams ever so slightly out of position. Would it matter, I don't know. But food for thought.

 

Yes we actually did that as well to make sure the cams were not moved...

 

Sounds like you did everything right. I've read in other threads here that some aftermarket VANOS units are dead on arrival. Could try swapping intake and exhaust VANOS and see if problem moves to an intake cam angle code. If not, could then maybe investigate wiring to the exhaust VANOS plug. My understanding is basically that then ECU tells the vanos to adjust the cam angle relative to the crank position, when that angle isn't detected/out of tolerance the fault is set. Could also be as simple as the Exhaust camshaft position sensor or it's wiring?

This guy had a different problem but maybe reading through it will spark an idea for you:
R60 Error code 2c58 and 2DA1 timing chain replacement - North American Motoring
Their resolution was probably 1 in a million, at post #62, a magnet tricking the sensor, but the thread did have some very detailed information on timing chain install sequence.

 

Ok we are gonna do a new timing chain...

just wanna clairify

is it to tighnten the crank shaft bolt

put in the tensioner

then intake sprocket

then exhaust sproket?

thanks you all for helping so far

 

Hey guys, anything new on this one. Similar issue here.

 

What exactly are you getting on your car now? I had 2DA0 as well as a low boost code which was a result. I changed out the cam sensors and VANOS solenoid, no change to the codes, they came back. Ended up getting a new timing chain installed at indie shop who noted the VANOS sprocket was faulty (I don't know how to diagnose that) Since replacing the car has been perfect (10k miles ago) I think the turbo is next. I believe alot of these issues are due to the extended oil change interval recommended by MINI.

 

2DA2. I've got valve cover off now and verified that my cams are not 100% parallel, so I am waiting on a new cam lock tool before I retime it.

 

I'm a big fan of your assessment on the long oil change interval. Evidence for it seems purely anecdotal, but enough of it to be compelling.

 

If you have any doubts about what you see, feel free to share pics. Not that I'm implying you do. To be clearly and visibly off though, without mechanical damage, surprises me. Though I admit I don't know what x is in terms of degrees out of time.

 

My R60 is the first car (out of over 20) that has needed a timing 'chain' (not even a belt) replaced before even hitting 100k miles, its pretty depressing honestly. I love the car but I personally think the N14 &N18 engines are pretty crappy. I followed the MINI recommended maintenance to a T on the thing. I also have a 25 Countryman that I am doing the oil more regularly than recommended,

 

Same code does anyone have access to wiring diagram or where to get one?

 

The other thing here is one code reader says its the exhaust cam shaft while another ready says its the crankshaft. I have done everythihg parts wise....Think it is in the wiring

 

I think, but cannot guarantee, you can find electrical schematics here: TisUI
It is not free though.

 

The error code is for the camshaft. Basically "the camshaft angular position is out of tolerance relative to the crankshaft angular position."

The DME/ECU sends the VANOS solenoid a command to achieve a particular camshaft angle (relative to crankshaft angle). When the commanded angle is not achieved within tolerance, the error code is set.

If everything looks great timing-wise mechanically, I believe the typical next culprits are VANOS solenoids (use quality OEM) and possible even less than ideal oil pressure.

 

Its also possible to be the Vanos Sprocket, more rare but possible.

 

The technical training literature has a general overview of all engine sensors and wire routing. I posted it in a different thread...
Post with N16 N18 Technical PDF

ISTA+ is your best resource for wiring pin outs in my opinion.

 

We did do the Vanos and the Solenoids...
Swapped them too.. and the Cam shaft position sensor...
One major thing is i could have the car Idling and even revving the engine for a long time with out the cel..
Once I drive the car for about 5km the cel with come on

One of the check in the bulletin
says to look at
check camshaft sensor wheel exhaust
its that the vanos ?


Thanks