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Did my first oil change on a preowned 2012 countryman today.
When moving the coolant tank to get to the filter, the coolant level is just below the minimum-which I noticed a few weeks ago when I bought the car-but I need to top off and the car has 50k miles, great condition, the coolant looks like a blueish green, but not sure it's OEM coolant and should I be concerned about putting the EXACT coolant in? I bought from a mini dealer and they probably have it in stock, despite further drive than a bike ride over to autozone.
• Q: So-what coolant should I be using? looks like G11 according to manual-does it have to be MINI?
• Secondly, when I moved the tank to get to the oil filter, the tube below started to leak, maybe from the bending? I didnt really investigate, other than "whoa, better not move that thing too much"....something I should repair or have repaired?
if it’s this then your fine, there are a few manufacturers that use the same codes. I run the zerex g48 in my R55s and friends R60S. She called me from autozone and said they had g11. I didn’t realize it was pentosin which would have worked.
if it’s this then your fine, there are a few manufacturers that use the same codes. I run the zerex g48 in my R55s and friends R60S. She called me from autozone and said they had g11. I didn’t realize it was pentosin which would have worked.
I do not know what is in it, ill assume OEM stuff since original owner barely drove it and did all his services at mini haha, its more blue green aqua than blue.....so, any harm in mixing what I assume is MINI OEM and some ZEREX to top off? or playing with fire?
I do not know what is in it, ill assume OEM stuff since original owner barely drove it and did all his services at mini haha, its more blue green aqua than blue.....so, any harm in mixing what I assume is MINI OEM and some ZEREX to top off? or playing with fire?
if you got mini stuff then your fine, just make sure you Pre mix it, I’m pretty sure mini branded coolant needs to be pre mixed unless it says so on the bottle. if you want to be on safe side just flush it and start over, it’s not hard to do.
Thanks, I’m down to put all new coolant in.
Any guess to the quantity? I can’t find in my manual!
2 gallons is what I used when I replaced my water pipe. When I dropped the coolant on the R60s we used just a little over a gallon, using the method in video.
Yeah, I found the price on coolant from mini wasn't too bad for concentrate. We tend to do a 60/40 mix here in Canada. Blue-ish sounds like the Mini coolant.
My coolant tank tends to leak when moved too. That whole design isn't great, and I posted earlier about breaking the T (which is the other end of that leaking hose) breaking. Now to do the oil filter I remove the air hoses from the air box to the turbo and the front of the car to the air box and just don't touch the coolant bottle/hoses at all. It doesn't really take any longer.
If anyone cares....
I went to MINI dealer and bought one quart of mini concentrate coolant, 10 bucks (surprised the manual doesnt spec, the bottle I bought doesnt spec, and the cap or the car doesnt tell me the spec haha) but I syphoned some of the coolant out of the overflow tank, just to get a little in a glass jar to compare what I bought vs whats already in there.
They looked identical, smelled identical, so I will assume the previous owner never flushed it-I dont know what bad coolant looks like, but, this was CLEAN and same color as new.
So, Just a little top off (diluted it with filtered water) only needed about 2 cups worth total....might do a flush at some point, not sure what tell signs are of needing a flush, but like I said in the original post, 2012, 49k miles, mint condition.
I have a mercedes metris van that I am original owner, 70k miles on it, ive never changed coolant on that, maybe I will do 2 in one weekend?
Anyway, thanks for the comments and help everyone.
@ECSTuning super helpful on that other thread with the neck connector, ordering now.
May be silly to ask, but, the genuine MINI doesn't seem like it's all that great? I mean, mine is 10 yrs old haha....debating on the off brand or MINI one.
Last edited by stiksandstones; Jan 24, 2022 at 11:56 AM.
So-noticing after my TOP OFF a week or so ago, the level has gone down about, I dunno, 1/8 to 1/4 inch, not much, but still down from the top off-and I can't imagine this car 'goes through coolant'...has to be a leak eh?
I don't see coolant anywhere, but, at that little amount over 8-10 days, would be hard to see anyway? I will add, and maybe this has been happening since I got it 2 months ago, but seems like when we park the car after a short drive, I hear the fan go on in engine compartment, not for long, maybe 15 seconds to a minute, not sure that's normal.
So-whats my next DIY step? pressure test? I see I should keep it between 12-15psi as not to cause more problems? I have a craigslist pressure pump tool for sale I might buy vs the $100 plus tool at autozone haha.
Buy a motive power bleeder for your brakes, not only will you be able to bleed your brake but you can also pressure your coolant system at the coolant tank. This one pays for itself. This is when I did mine
So, not sure if this means anything---
I noticed on my carfax from this preowned, the thermostat was replaced 3k miles ago at the dealer.
My 'leak' may not even be a leak...maybe my inexperience at looking at the tank? in the morning when its cold, or right now after I drove it, it seems like it goes from cold to hot about 1/4" fluctuations? maybe this is totally normal.
I put on jackstands just now and can't see any leaks, any signs of old crusty coolant leaks, nada.
I used my Bluedriver and ran it live to check temp just now, warmed it up drove around my hood and jumped on freeway and went 80-90 for a few miles, not sure what 'normal is' but it went as high as 219F, and then when I was cruising at 75-80, hovered around 200....pulled into driveway and was 215-220 and I just let the car cool down for a minute and shut off. 220f normal high for such a short drive? Fan never came on either and its about 60 degrees out and cloudy.
So-maybe this is all normal, but, just trying to learn about cars since its been 30yrs since I worked on cars and that was barely working on cars.
Cheers
Oh, p.s.
I read and saw some vids about when topping off coolant to turn the bleed screw, I did not do that when I topped off, and now in hindsight, I can't even find the damn screw, its a sure thing I have it eh? (2012 mini countryman 2, march 2012 build date)
So, not sure if this means anything---
I noticed on my carfax from this preowned, the thermostat was replaced 3k miles ago at the dealer.
My 'leak' may not even be a leak...maybe my inexperience at looking at the tank? in the morning when its cold, or right now after I drove it, it seems like it goes from cold to hot about 1/4" fluctuations? maybe this is totally normal.
I put on jackstands just now and can't see any leaks, any signs of old crusty coolant leaks, nada.
I used my Bluedriver and ran it live to check temp just now, warmed it up drove around my hood and jumped on freeway and went 80-90 for a few miles, not sure what 'normal is' but it went as high as 219F, and then when I was cruising at 75-80, hovered around 200....pulled into driveway and was 215-220 and I just let the car cool down for a minute and shut off. 220f normal high for such a short drive? Fan never came on either and its about 60 degrees out and cloudy.
So-maybe this is all normal, but, just trying to learn about cars since its been 30yrs since I worked on cars and that was barely working on cars.
Cheers
Oh, p.s.
I read and saw some vids about when topping off coolant to turn the bleed screw, I did not do that when I topped off, and now in hindsight, I can't even find the damn screw, its a sure thing I have it eh? (2012 mini countryman 2, march 2012 build date)
Temps are where they should be, but you might be on the right path with bleeding the system. So get a flashlight and sign in between the intake pipe and the motor, the thermostat is right there and the bleeder is on top, you should see a plus cut into the plastic, that’s the Phillips head of the bleeder. I’ll find a pic of the bleed screw.
Got that power bleeder, put it up to 10-11psi, as not to 'break' anything haha, didnt not hear or see any leaks.
I am gonna assume, I am over reacting to the level on the reservoir hahaha.
I turned the bleed screw, 3-4 turns, and saw some coolant come out and then tightened it, was hard to see and clean up the little bit (without taking off all the parts to get to that screw).....so, will assume I have no problems and just keep an eye on it haha.
Thanks all.