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I've searched the forum here, as well as YouTube, had a few fundamental questions, as I prep to do my own oil & filter change. Not a newbie to this task at all, however first time on my 2015 Countryman All4 JCW, Auto.
Before the BMW TIS?? Website was shut down I recall the write up on oil filter removal, and a note that said once the oil cap and filter is removed, inspect drain back check valve, replace as needed.
Have not been able to find any info on this since. Those that have done this work, any details, tips tricks? Anything I've read or watched the process is removal and install....not one speaks to this inspection of drain back valve.
Having an auto trans, clearly there are two pans, with two drain plugs. Not one oil change video makes it's clear what side of the car, what drain plug. References to a 8mm allen bolt...ok, then I would assume to make it fool proof the auto trans pan is NOT the same 8mm.
From an old post (credit to STEVEPSD) I see the oil pan is on the passenger side, also looks like a manual trans on this CM.
Oil pan is on the passenger side in the auto. Trans pan is on the drivers. ...assuming typical north american driver's side configuration. Oil pan has a female Allen head, Trans pan has a female torx. Don't drain your trans pan by accident, you're gonna have a bad time. ...don't ask me how I know.
Oil pan is on the passenger side in the auto. Trans pan is on the drivers. ...assuming typical north american driver's side configuration. Oil pan has a female Allen head, Trans pan has a female torx. Don't drain your trans pan by accident, you're gonna have a bad time. ...don't ask me how I know.
Made the same mistake on a Subaru once. Not my finest moment.
Thanks everyone for the comments. I did get around to this work, like others have said, access to the oil filter is a real pain. Even with the expansion tank moved up / over, you do this part mostly by feel.
Feels good to break away from thou shall take the car to the dealer for straight forward maintenance. First time wrenching on a non-North American auto.
Planning my next project, spark plugs and coil packs.
Agreed on the oil filter location. There must be a more accessible location. That aside, I enjoy doing oil changes myself. Plus it's cheaper and doesn't require making an appointment. I haven't yet done coil packs but the spark plugs are just about the easiest replacement on a Mini.
N18 has the worst oil filter placement. On my R55S, with n14, I can pull the filter out with no issues, none of the hoses really are in the way. R60S All4 with n18 that I’ve been working on, I have done 2 oil changes and that damn coolant line is in the worst spot on the planet, wife’s bf has heard me say a few choice words when doing the filter. Brake and coolant flushes were easy peasy.
Plugs and coils aren’t too bad on the n18, the stupid beauty cover is in the way, but other than that it’s straight forward. Get the proper spark plug socket, 14mm thin wall 12 point, Amazon has a bunch for under 15. I got the Atlin one for like 8 bucks, they had a deal running one day.
Thanks, I was also interested in this question, I want to try to change the oil myself. I'm new to this, so a similar scheme will help me, it would also not hurt to change the oil filter. I use 0W-20 Synthetic Oil, Pennzoil Platinum, you can see here 0W-20 Synthetic Oil. I live in Alaska and sometimes there are problems with the temperature of the oil, 0W-20 Synthetic is just suitable for extreme conditions as it has a double viscosity, as well as such an oil significantly saves fuel.
Last edited by HarryEngine; Aug 25, 2021 at 01:31 AM.
N18 has the worst oil filter placement. On my R55S, with n14, I can pull the filter out with no issues, none of the hoses really are in the way. R60S All4 with n18 that I’ve been working on, I have done 2 oil changes and that damn coolant line is in the worst spot on the planet, wife’s bf has heard me say a few choice words when doing the filter. Brake and coolant flushes were easy peasy.
This!
On my 10 year old countryman when moving the expansion tank to get at the filter the T on the coolant line broke. Coolant everywhere, and you have to buy the entire molded piece all the way to the turbo, so expensive.
The guy that designed this should have thought perhaps someone might have to change the oil and filter during the life of the car.
On my 10 year old countryman when moving the expansion tank to get at the filter the T on the coolant line broke. Coolant everywhere, and you have to buy the entire molded piece all the way to the turbo, so expensive.
The guy that designed this should have thought perhaps someone might have to change the oil and filter during the life of the car.
I just did my first oil change on my new-to-me 2012, moved the coolant tank and it started leaking at that base of the tank and that plug (maybe it was a "T"?) just looked fragile, I put it back and was just extra careful with the coolant tank while getting to the oil filter.
I just did my first oil change on my new-to-me 2012, moved the coolant tank and it started leaking at that base of the tank and that plug (maybe it was a "T"?) just looked fragile, I put it back and was just extra careful with the coolant tank while getting to the oil filter.
that plastic t can be replaced with a brass one from lowes or Home Depot. 1x1x3/4 was the size, I had to replace it on the countryman while while we’re at MSSD this last October. I had to run to lowes at 7am and got her fixed up and back on road by 11 am when we checked out of Fontana Village.
