Any Break-in suggestions?
Any Break-in suggestions?
Hi,
Due to get my first MCS in early September. I'm guessing that I won't be able (or want) to read the manual before hopping in the new car and driving it home. I will be getting on a highway right away out fo the dealership, and I wanted to know if there are any break-in suggestions, like don't drive at a constant speed for the first xxx miles, or some other things that normal people don't think about.
Here's what's coming:
MCSa chili red, Black Leatherette, Chrome Line Exterior, Chrome Line Interior, Cold Weather Package, Chrome Door Mirror Caps, dynamic Stability Control, Foglights, Interior Body Color, Premium Package, Rear Fog Lamps, Roof In Body Color, Xenon Headlights
Due to get my first MCS in early September. I'm guessing that I won't be able (or want) to read the manual before hopping in the new car and driving it home. I will be getting on a highway right away out fo the dealership, and I wanted to know if there are any break-in suggestions, like don't drive at a constant speed for the first xxx miles, or some other things that normal people don't think about.
Here's what's coming:
MCSa chili red, Black Leatherette, Chrome Line Exterior, Chrome Line Interior, Cold Weather Package, Chrome Door Mirror Caps, dynamic Stability Control, Foglights, Interior Body Color, Premium Package, Rear Fog Lamps, Roof In Body Color, Xenon Headlights
Break-in suggestions...
What Suzanne said. Also, since you're getting an auto, I would recommend using the auto-manual feature to help keep your RPMs in check. During my break-in I had a few instances where the automatic developed a mind of its own and revved past 4,500 before I could do anything about it. Using the paddles you can control the upshift points a bit more accurately.
Other than that, drive, drive, drive! Get past the break-in as quick as you can. After 1,250 miles, a whole new world opens up!
What Suzanne said. Also, since you're getting an auto, I would recommend using the auto-manual feature to help keep your RPMs in check. During my break-in I had a few instances where the automatic developed a mind of its own and revved past 4,500 before I could do anything about it. Using the paddles you can control the upshift points a bit more accurately.
Other than that, drive, drive, drive! Get past the break-in as quick as you can. After 1,250 miles, a whole new world opens up!
Go to MotoringFile (http://www.motoringfile.com/) and you can download the 2005 owner's manual (the latest one available for download). Then you can read the owner's manual while waiting for your MINI to appear at the dealer.
Call me tipe "A" ...
but I would NOT wait for your service indicator for you first oil change.
Change it SOON 5000 miles with the SAME required oil.
Break in will have comtaminants in the oil.
Good idea to get them out of there.
(nice car)
but I would NOT wait for your service indicator for you first oil change.
Change it SOON 5000 miles with the SAME required oil.
Break in will have comtaminants in the oil.
Good idea to get them out of there.
(nice car)
I just got mine a couple of days ago and have to say that your going to be glad that you got Xenon Headlights. Those suckers are seriously bright. Back to topic though, I'm driving in basic auto and it barly ever goes over 4500.
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My MA suggested that I drive it during break-in the way I plan to drive it for the rest of its life - HARD. There are different schools of thought, and at the end of the day, with modern casting technology, it doesn't make a huge different.
The best suggestion was that driving it hard does NOT mean flooring it at every opportunity. It means putting the engine under continuous high-RPM loading. i.e. when slowing down from high speed, drop down through each gear, putting high-RPM loads on the engine (i.e. don't shift to neutral and coast to a stop). That helps to keep the piston rings well seated.
And change the oil after 3000-5000 miles to get rid of any junk in the oil.
The best suggestion was that driving it hard does NOT mean flooring it at every opportunity. It means putting the engine under continuous high-RPM loading. i.e. when slowing down from high speed, drop down through each gear, putting high-RPM loads on the engine (i.e. don't shift to neutral and coast to a stop). That helps to keep the piston rings well seated.
And change the oil after 3000-5000 miles to get rid of any junk in the oil.
Originally Posted by rktsci
My MA suggested that I drive it during break-in the way I plan to drive it for the rest of its life - HARD. There are different schools of thought, and at the end of the day, with modern casting technology, it doesn't make a huge different.
The best suggestion was that driving it hard does NOT mean flooring it at every opportunity. It means putting the engine under continuous high-RPM loading. i.e. when slowing down from high speed, drop down through each gear, putting high-RPM loads on the engine (i.e. don't shift to neutral and coast to a stop). That helps to keep the piston rings well seated.
And change the oil after 3000-5000 miles to get rid of any junk in the oil.
The best suggestion was that driving it hard does NOT mean flooring it at every opportunity. It means putting the engine under continuous high-RPM loading. i.e. when slowing down from high speed, drop down through each gear, putting high-RPM loads on the engine (i.e. don't shift to neutral and coast to a stop). That helps to keep the piston rings well seated.
And change the oil after 3000-5000 miles to get rid of any junk in the oil.
Although I'm not arguing for or against this method for cars, I'd have a better peace of mind following the procedure recommended in the owner's manual.
Cheers!
Forget whatever the manuel says, deff pedal to the metal, all of the time, and atleast shifting at about 6500 for the first 1250 miles. Be sure to cruise in 4th @ 110. Joking, do what everyone else says, and be careful.
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Jan 29, 2016 05:06 PM



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