M/S mode question for my 2004 automatic transmission
M/S mode question for my 2004 automatic transmission
I generally use the automatic mode of my 2004 hatchback transmission when driving.
How can I use the M/S mode safety without overworking the motor when driving down a steep mountain? When I push it over from D into the -M/S+ mode, the engine seems to rev really high no matter if I am in the plus or minus position.
When driving down a steep grade, would I go in the + mode of M/S?
Thanks in advance.
How can I use the M/S mode safety without overworking the motor when driving down a steep mountain? When I push it over from D into the -M/S+ mode, the engine seems to rev really high no matter if I am in the plus or minus position.
When driving down a steep grade, would I go in the + mode of M/S?
Thanks in advance.
When I move the shifter to sport mode then up to downshift or down to upshift, you should see what gear you are in under the speedometer, it should not rev abnormally high. Have you had regular fluid changes and the adaptations reset?
I'll be travelling on that steep mountain grade grade tomorrow so will give the M/S a try. If I understand right, when I travel downhill, I push the lever in the plus position? I did see the gear numbers in the speedometer. The lower number for going downhill? I'll check tomorrow but I think the M/S numbers go from 1-5.
The hill is rated at 17% which is pretty steep
yes lower numbers are lower gear - going down a mountain as you go to the lower gears your rpms will increase, but they should not get to high in 3rd gear probably 3000 to 4000 rpms -- you really should have the dealer do the prescribed mini service on your transmission the adaptations just relearns the transmission back to original settings.
I generally use the automatic mode of my 2004 hatchback transmission when driving.
How can I use the M/S mode safety without overworking the motor when driving down a steep mountain? When I push it over from D into the -M/S+ mode, the engine seems to rev really high no matter if I am in the plus or minus position.
When driving down a steep grade, would I go in the + mode of M/S?
Thanks in advance.
How can I use the M/S mode safety without overworking the motor when driving down a steep mountain? When I push it over from D into the -M/S+ mode, the engine seems to rev really high no matter if I am in the plus or minus position.
When driving down a steep grade, would I go in the + mode of M/S?
Thanks in advance.
I think you would call it a base cooper, Eddie. I was told it is an R50 non-supercharged Mini. I have an album for her.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/g/album/14536719
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/g/album/14536719
Last edited by Nancy WC; Sep 7, 2019 at 02:56 AM. Reason: added more info
Thanks, Ovrezy, for sure I will look into that. I had a safety check done for her in Ontario after i got her over the border and everything passed. I'll take your reply concerning the adaptations with me when I get the oil changed and in the Spring.
Trending Topics
Nancy - What a beautiful car!
I especially like the tan interior. 
My wife bought her MINI, Blue a 2004 model, in 2003. She came from driving a Jeep Grand Cherokee to this car. When she went to pick it up, she became afraid that no one would see her on the road. By the time she got home with it, she was grinning ear to ear. It is still in our garage and used regularly. You sound to be equally excited about your MINI.
A bit about MINIs. This latest version started in 2002 and is generally referred to as the Gen I MINI. In 2007 they came out with a new model which is referred to as the Gen II, then in 2014 they came out with the Gen III. Within each generation BMW/MINI assigned a designation to each of the car bodies. The Base Cooper (which you have) is an R50, the convertible is an R52, and the S and JCW models are a R53. While the R50 and R53 look to be identical, the R53 has a strengthened frame for the higher horsepower, hence the different body number.
This is where you are going to not like me...
While the Gen I MINIs are generally reliable, the Achilles heel of the R50 MINI is the “automatic” transmission. It is not a traditional automatic that you may be used to. The R50 has a CVT (continuously varying transmission). This uses a metal belt drive to change its drive speed and that belt is its weak link. If you are familiar with the drive in a snowmobile, it is similar to that.
My wife’s MINI has that CVT option too. When I started to hear about problems with them, I looked into its issues and found that there is a lot on NAM here about these transmissions. The main issue is that the belt comes apart and when it does the damage done is not repairable. I have not found a general consensus as to what it the main cause for this to happen and for some owners, it never happens and works fine for a long time (mileage wise). But mileage on the car seems to be a factor.
In general, the consensus is that these transmissions will do better and last longer with a transmission fluid change at about every 30,000 miles. I saw on your intro thread that your car has almost 100,000 miles on it, so it is due for a CVT fluid change now. The CVT takes a special fluid and the cost for the change is a bit pricey as result.
And as with almost everything else in this world, doing things in moderation is the best way to make things last longer. I would think that the same is true for the CVT in the MINI. By the pictures that you posted it would seem that your MINI was well taken care of and maybe even pampered. Which is a good thing for your MINI.
As for the manual mode for the transmission in your MINI, pulling the shifter to the left will put the transmission into Sports Drive (“SD” will show up in the center console display). This resets how the transmission changes its ratios to allow the engine to run at higher RPM and produce more power. In SD mode, the transmission is still in “constantly varying” mode, as it was before moving the shifter (when it was in plain Drive (“D”) mode). If you now pull the shifter back it changes the transmission to be in “manual” mode and a number will show up in the center console display. That number represents a pre-determined ratio in the transmission, of which there are 6. Pulling the shifter back puts the transmission into manual mode at the same about ratio as it was in when it was in SD mode, which will put the least amount of strain on the transmission vs pushing the shifter forward.
With that said, you have one heck of a hill to go down. A 17% is quite something and I understand your desire to use engine braking to help you to go down it. However, with this CVT I would opt to use the brakes instead. Brakes are relatively cheap to replace in comparison to the transmission and are really quite good on the MINI.
BEFORE you do this, have your brake fluid fully changed out with a high quality, high boiling point brake fluid (ATE 200 amber is a suggestion that you should be able to get). If there is old fluid in the system and it over heats, it will boil and you will lose your brakes... Actually this will happen on any car. It is not a MINI thing.
To use the brakes, you want to let the car coast up to a speed that is the max that you are comfortable with and then apply the brakes reasonable hard and bring the car’s speed down to a reasonable speed. Take your foot off the brake to let them cool. And repeat as necessary. Do not drag the brakes as this will cause more wear and may cause them to over heat.
If you feel you need to control the engine speed while going down the hill, you can put it into SD mode and pull the shifter back and maybe pull it back a second time. This should put the transmission into a ratio that both the engine and transmission can handle.
I am sorry to be the bearer of bad news about your lovely car. Feel free to post on this thread questions that you may have, If you post here, I’ll get a notice and I’ll do my best to respond or maybe someone with more knowledge will also respond. I know you said you are hours from a dealer, but is that hours from a dealer in the US or just Canada? I have a great relationship with my dealer here in Albany NY area. They are not all bad. If you need work done in your area and don’t know where to go, you can post here on NAM to see if anyone knows of a good independent shop in your area. NAM is great at helping out this these sorts of things.
And, about the CVT, the belt is replaceable before it lets go. The cost is moderately expensive but may be worth it if you plan to keep the car...

My wife bought her MINI, Blue a 2004 model, in 2003. She came from driving a Jeep Grand Cherokee to this car. When she went to pick it up, she became afraid that no one would see her on the road. By the time she got home with it, she was grinning ear to ear. It is still in our garage and used regularly. You sound to be equally excited about your MINI.
A bit about MINIs. This latest version started in 2002 and is generally referred to as the Gen I MINI. In 2007 they came out with a new model which is referred to as the Gen II, then in 2014 they came out with the Gen III. Within each generation BMW/MINI assigned a designation to each of the car bodies. The Base Cooper (which you have) is an R50, the convertible is an R52, and the S and JCW models are a R53. While the R50 and R53 look to be identical, the R53 has a strengthened frame for the higher horsepower, hence the different body number.
This is where you are going to not like me...

While the Gen I MINIs are generally reliable, the Achilles heel of the R50 MINI is the “automatic” transmission. It is not a traditional automatic that you may be used to. The R50 has a CVT (continuously varying transmission). This uses a metal belt drive to change its drive speed and that belt is its weak link. If you are familiar with the drive in a snowmobile, it is similar to that.
My wife’s MINI has that CVT option too. When I started to hear about problems with them, I looked into its issues and found that there is a lot on NAM here about these transmissions. The main issue is that the belt comes apart and when it does the damage done is not repairable. I have not found a general consensus as to what it the main cause for this to happen and for some owners, it never happens and works fine for a long time (mileage wise). But mileage on the car seems to be a factor.
In general, the consensus is that these transmissions will do better and last longer with a transmission fluid change at about every 30,000 miles. I saw on your intro thread that your car has almost 100,000 miles on it, so it is due for a CVT fluid change now. The CVT takes a special fluid and the cost for the change is a bit pricey as result.
And as with almost everything else in this world, doing things in moderation is the best way to make things last longer. I would think that the same is true for the CVT in the MINI. By the pictures that you posted it would seem that your MINI was well taken care of and maybe even pampered. Which is a good thing for your MINI.
As for the manual mode for the transmission in your MINI, pulling the shifter to the left will put the transmission into Sports Drive (“SD” will show up in the center console display). This resets how the transmission changes its ratios to allow the engine to run at higher RPM and produce more power. In SD mode, the transmission is still in “constantly varying” mode, as it was before moving the shifter (when it was in plain Drive (“D”) mode). If you now pull the shifter back it changes the transmission to be in “manual” mode and a number will show up in the center console display. That number represents a pre-determined ratio in the transmission, of which there are 6. Pulling the shifter back puts the transmission into manual mode at the same about ratio as it was in when it was in SD mode, which will put the least amount of strain on the transmission vs pushing the shifter forward.
With that said, you have one heck of a hill to go down. A 17% is quite something and I understand your desire to use engine braking to help you to go down it. However, with this CVT I would opt to use the brakes instead. Brakes are relatively cheap to replace in comparison to the transmission and are really quite good on the MINI.
BEFORE you do this, have your brake fluid fully changed out with a high quality, high boiling point brake fluid (ATE 200 amber is a suggestion that you should be able to get). If there is old fluid in the system and it over heats, it will boil and you will lose your brakes... Actually this will happen on any car. It is not a MINI thing.
To use the brakes, you want to let the car coast up to a speed that is the max that you are comfortable with and then apply the brakes reasonable hard and bring the car’s speed down to a reasonable speed. Take your foot off the brake to let them cool. And repeat as necessary. Do not drag the brakes as this will cause more wear and may cause them to over heat.
If you feel you need to control the engine speed while going down the hill, you can put it into SD mode and pull the shifter back and maybe pull it back a second time. This should put the transmission into a ratio that both the engine and transmission can handle.
I am sorry to be the bearer of bad news about your lovely car. Feel free to post on this thread questions that you may have, If you post here, I’ll get a notice and I’ll do my best to respond or maybe someone with more knowledge will also respond. I know you said you are hours from a dealer, but is that hours from a dealer in the US or just Canada? I have a great relationship with my dealer here in Albany NY area. They are not all bad. If you need work done in your area and don’t know where to go, you can post here on NAM to see if anyone knows of a good independent shop in your area. NAM is great at helping out this these sorts of things.
And, about the CVT, the belt is replaceable before it lets go. The cost is moderately expensive but may be worth it if you plan to keep the car...
Thanks for the info, Eddie! I gave that 17% hill a try with the M/S in Sport Mode and it worked like a charm. I was able to keep the revs at around 300rpm with minimal braking. Thanks also for your advice on how to use the brakes without overheating them. I will ask them about getting "a high quality, high boiling point brake fluid" for her.
The nearest Mini Dealer is about 7 hours from me (from Quebec to New Brunswick, Canada). I plan on storing her in my garage over the winter because she's never been driven in the snow. Yes, she's been pampered and for sure I will take your notes with me when I see the Mini dealer in New Brunswick next spring.
I had a safety inspection done a few months ago and the mechanic mentioned that my car has a Timing Chain rather than a timing belt, which he said was a good thing and not necessary to have it changed every 100,000. I will still look into that at the next Mini dealer though.
I also have to look into having a spare key made.
The nearest Mini Dealer is about 7 hours from me (from Quebec to New Brunswick, Canada). I plan on storing her in my garage over the winter because she's never been driven in the snow. Yes, she's been pampered and for sure I will take your notes with me when I see the Mini dealer in New Brunswick next spring.
I had a safety inspection done a few months ago and the mechanic mentioned that my car has a Timing Chain rather than a timing belt, which he said was a good thing and not necessary to have it changed every 100,000. I will still look into that at the next Mini dealer though.
I also have to look into having a spare key made.
Thanks for the info, Eddie! I gave that 17% hill a try with the M/S in Sport Mode and it worked like a charm. I was able to keep the revs at around 300rpm with minimal braking. Thanks also for your advice on how to use the brakes without overheating them. I will ask them about getting "a high quality, high boiling point brake fluid" for her.
The nearest Mini Dealer is about 7 hours from me (from Quebec to New Brunswick, Canada). I plan on storing her in my garage over the winter because she's never been driven in the snow. Yes, she's been pampered and for sure I will take your notes with me when I see the Mini dealer in New Brunswick next spring.
The nearest Mini Dealer is about 7 hours from me (from Quebec to New Brunswick, Canada). I plan on storing her in my garage over the winter because she's never been driven in the snow. Yes, she's been pampered and for sure I will take your notes with me when I see the Mini dealer in New Brunswick next spring.
That is a long hike to get to a dealer...

As for brake fluid, I should have mentioned that the MINI/BMW brand that the dealer uses is very good and should be just fine for you.
I had a safety inspection done a few months ago and the mechanic mentioned that my car has a Timing Chain rather than a timing belt, which he said was a good thing and not necessary to have it changed every 100,000. I will still look into that at the next Mini dealer though.
I also have to look into having a spare key made.
I also have to look into having a spare key made.
However, a clarification on my post above. The “belt” I was referring to in my post above is the “drive belt” in the transmission. The CVT transmission in your MINI doesn’t have gears like a traditional automatic transmission has. The reason I bring this up is this drive belt has a moderately short life and if it breaks, it will destroy the transmission, which is very expensive to replace. This is why I suggested not using the transmission to slow the car down on that 17% hill you have to go down. Using the brakes instead will minimize the wear on the transmission drive belt and make it last longer.
Best wishes for a long time of enjoyment with your pretty red MINI. We currently have 3 MINIs, one of which is much like yours. I still very much enjoy driving that car. They all always bring a smile to our faces when we get in them...
I'm glad the downshift to 3rd helped. In my experience with the CVT (13 years) it's good to run it in sport mode occasionally. It's true the CVT has had a lot of problems in the past, I think most have been the metal belt breaking and falling apart, probably from overheating and old fluid breaking down. Don't let it scare you, I think it is probably the best automatic that I have owned. I just went over 184.000 miles and it's doing great.
I'm glad the downshift to 3rd helped. In my experience with the CVT (13 years) it's good to run it in sport mode occasionally. It's true the CVT has had a lot of problems in the past, I think most have been the metal belt breaking and falling apart, probably from overheating and old fluid breaking down. Don't let it scare you, I think it is probably the best automatic that I have owned. I just went over 184.000 miles and it's doing great.
I'm glad the downshift to 3rd helped. In my experience with the CVT (13 years) it's good to run it in sport mode occasionally. It's true the CVT has had a lot of problems in the past, I think most have been the metal belt breaking and falling apart, probably from overheating and old fluid breaking down. Don't let it scare you, I think it is probably the best automatic that I have owned. I just went over 184.000 miles and it's doing great.
How often have you changed the fluid in it?
Ours, too, gets run in sports mode occasionally. I will note that I try to do the shifting into sport mode either when I am stopped or with light pressure on the gas pedal. That is, just enough gas to maintain the speed I am at and then stepping on the gas to accelerate after it has changed ratios. For example, that is what I would do when I am passing someone.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
perryinva
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
3
Jul 12, 2016 10:36 PM







