The difference on fast sweepers and fast undulating country roads is quite amazing...but so is the ride on pothole soaked roads. So, I'll avoid the latter and seek out the former.

I also had all four ball joints replaced for goofs and giggles. The driver's side outer ball joint was apparently not well either - along with the control arm bushing on that side .

So, the entire front end feels extremely tight and well controlled. I highly recommend these, but they will transmit more harshness into the ride. Not alarmingly so. I also had the Megans set 23 on the way back from the dealership...pretty stiff...32 is max.

I have one more jiggle to chase down and I should be ready to rock and roll. Total cost to have BMW/Mini perform the work, $1,132.00.

Was it worth it to have someone else perform the work? This time around, yes...too many hours under the car lately. Besides, next time my wife complains about the time I spend on the car, I can show her the bill There is genius in men! A strategic move for sure.

 

Most excellent Michael, including the logic .

I hear ya on increased noise transmission... I'm guessing the same as when one converts to heim rear control arms.

You do have me concerned on the ball joint though. Any photos to share? It would be interesting to see the damage, and then to speculate as to the cause...

I too want to do this, but it would be here at my home, with my garage only existing on paper at the moment . Peter of M7 has some delrin bushes I believe that I would like to try some day...

Thanks for sharing!

 

Tony,

The ball joint in question moves more than a hair - I can pull on the joint vertically if you will and the joint makes a definate clicking noise, but is also - and obviously - loose.

I can only speculate, but there has been a lot of fiber optic work in my neck of the woods and it is all in the right lane and on the right side of the right lane. The temporary black top work has been in place since August 2004 - some of it is horrible. I travel about 30 miles every day or so thru these various towns to projects I've designed. Perhaps this constant pounding is the cause...and I'm typically very careful. The re-paving was scheduled to begin last week...rain delys.

I'm waiting for the rear trailing arm bushing from Powerflex, they are on back order.

I forgot to add that I also had the Powerflex steering rack bushing installed too.

It's definately very tight up front now! Just one more jiggle to get rid of...

 

Chant with me....Pictures...Pictures...Pictures!

 

If I can find someone to coach me thru loading pictures, I have lots. I thought I loaded a lot of others correctly, but nothing. Anyone? I'll leave a phone number...

 

Sounds like road conditions might have been it then...

You actually ordered the trailing arm bushing direct from PowerFlex? Didn't realize that was possible as I think they are in the UK. They list 3 US distributors, but none carry MINI stuff... PROMINI seems to be a good source of them all, but I just don't know their stock situation...

How difficult was the install for the steering rack bushing?

 

Sid, want to call the man? If not, I will... when my wife get's off the phone... Make use of that Gallery Michael!

 

Tony,

These all came from MossMini.

The steering rack bushing was an absolute no brainer once the sub-frame was lowered - according to the Mini folk. I attempted to perform this while all else was installed a week ago and it's tight. I could have done it with a few special tools, but at the time I was also confronted with removing the subframe, and so I mused, why bother?

I also made plans to remove the sub-frame in my driveway and K-huevo was kind enough to send me his bushing removal tool...which is still packaged up. In the end, I'm glad I did not have to play with the car...this week

Now I can finish installing the USS.

By the way, the Mini tech folk said there was no way to align the sub-frame. Sadly, it's still off center limiting the amount of negative camber this particular car can achieve...by about 1 degree I estimate. If I were really racing - Onasled - I would be a bit pissed.

 

Thanks Michael. I get the impression that most of our vendors don't keep these in stock, and I suppose that's understandable...

Sounds like while doing these front control arm bushings, one should also consider doing the steering rack one also. Good info to know. Plus, for those who want to replace the front sway bar, that would be a great time to do so...

The alignment of the subframe sort of baffles me... I guess I'll see for myself when that time comes. I can get just over 3 degrees negative in the front, and I was quite happy with that. I decided, as my sig reveals, on a fair amount less initially. I'm analyzing tire wear to see what my driving habits dictate. A 1/3 of my commute is in a canyon ( ), 1/3 freeway, and 1/3 city streets...

Anyone call you yet?

Not to be insulting, but do you know how to download photos from your camera to your computer? Just trying to get an idea as to where you are....

 

As an fyi Michael, Moss said that they are getting that bushing delivered to them on the 23rd. So, you might have it for a weekend install...

 

How do the shocks rate

 

I sent you a PM. They're nice.

 

Tony,

I would definately replace all the ball joints if the subframe were being removed. If I remember, all four cost $117.00 +/-. The rest for me was labor - about $1,000.00.

 

Thanks Michael! It's really nice to take care of things while in there, and for 100 or so bucks, well worth it, I feel...

 

...it may have been $177, but still, it's woth doing at the same time.

Ciao Tony

 

What tool did the techs use to remove the inner ball joint?

 

Keith - Sorry! I forgot to PM you about this.

They used a "typical" ball joint removal tool. The reason - the subframe was out of the car and they did not need to worry about saving the ball joint - all the original components were in a box and both ball joints were torn...from the removal process I assumed.

Let me see if I can get more info for you.

Michael

 

There is a bmw ball joint remover tool, it just doesn't work with the arms attatched to the frame as described in the shop manual.

 

Just a word of caution on these bushings and I wouldn't want to generalise may be our experience is a one-off. We use these on the race car and twice they separated (they are a 2 piece unit).

We had to thread the hole at the back of the control arm and add a cup/oversize washer held by a large size bolt (where we threaded) to keep them in place. Otherwise the entire control arm tends to come out of the bushing.

I will try to post some pictures next week.

 

Powerflex offers a motorsport support piece PFF5-101MS. I know there is an allen bolt on the end of the trailing arm I would assume this part would replace. For the street this looks like it would be a little more restrictive; maybe a harsh ride. There's a picture on this page http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products....7&submit1.y=11

 

Thanks K-Huevo, that's exactly what we did. Didn't know they were available!

They may be recommended for Motorsport usage, but the first time they came out, is the first day the car backed-out of the shop. Way before we hit the track.

If it was my street car, I wouldn't consider installing them unless the support was used.

 

...this may point to a problem I'm now having...I sure hope I don't have to pull the subframe out again...yes, no? :impatient

What did the car do, or what did this feel like Jpropane?

 

Meb,

Just jack the car up and perform a visual inspection. If you have an issue, the bushing will pop out of it's normal location, moving backward.

Just look at the picture/link k-huevo brought-up. Where the washer is, is where it comes out.

 

I think I was the one who informed K-huevo about the Motorsport part from Powerflex...in fact I remember wondering if I made a mistake by not ordering/installing it.

The 20 million dollar question is, can I perform this install with removing the subframe again? That cost me $1,200.00...well, including for new ball joints.

 

You should be able to do it by lowering it only, but it will still have to come down. We tried and gave up.