Mini Cooper 2007-2013: How to Repair Hatch Lid Release

This article applies to the Mini Cooper (2007-2013).

One of the main advantages to owning a Mini Cooper is the awesome amount of transportation space it has to offer, especially in the rear of the vehicle, which is both wide and tall. So, it’s understandable that really, there’s nothing more frustrating than a broken hatch lid in a Mini Cooper. If you find yourself dealing with this issue, do know that there are a couple of things that could be wrong here. Here are some diagnostic steps to take before launching into the actual repair. Read on to learn more.

Step 1 – Check the key fob

There’s a chance that the key fob might have been reprogrammed and is no longer working properly; there’s also the chance that its battery died. Investigate both possibilities – first, replace the battery to see if the hatch works. If the fob lights up (assuming there is an indicator light on it), but nothing happens, try reprogramming the fob. If that doesn’t work, move on to Step 2.

Step 2 – Check the lever and cable

There’s a good chance that the latch lever and/or attached cable might be broken, or otherwise compromised. To do this, remove the license plate and frame, then remove the trunk lid grip by removing four T20 screws. Now, disconnect the electric wiring harness and set the trunk lid grip assembly aside. Take a closer look at the switch – is the plastic around it broken at all? What about around the slide clips that secure the switch, or inside the latch handle? And the cable – is anything pinched or otherwise severed? Replace as necessary.

Step 3 –Check the switch function

If there are no signs of obvious physical damage, use a paper clip and form it to the width of the two outside contacts (brown and blue/red wires. Hold the clip with insulate pliers and touch the two outside metal contacts inside the plug. If the wires are good, the hatch should open. If it’s not, the switch is at fault, and needs to be replaced.

This is, unfortunately, easier said than done – the only option is to order the entire trunk lid assembly — they range in price from $95 to $190.

Step 4 – Replace the trunk lid assembly

If you’re reading down this far, then apologies for the headache you’re dealing with. Fortunately, the task is almost complete.

Assuming you have the new trunk lid assembly, begin by removing the cosmetic cover from the old assembly. Do this by placing the assembly down and prying the cover off to release the clips on the black housing. As the cover is released, use a small screwdriver inside the tab and push down gently to lift the edge of the cover over the "teeth” of the tab on the housing. While you’re doing this, continue to separate the cover with the other screwdriver. Work your way along the cover line, and eventually remove the cosmetic cover away from the black housing.

Remove the cosmetic cover from the new assembly, and replace with the cosmetic cover that you just removed from the old assembly (that way it matches your car). Save the cosmetic cover in case there’s ever a need for it down the road.

Take the new assembly/old cover combination and reinstall to the vehicle. Double check the rubber seal around the switch to ensure it is tight and no water can get in. Next, begin plugging the electrical assembly back together. Re-install the aforementioned four Torx screws and test the handle out. Assuming it works, re-install the license plate and its holder frame.

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