I spent some time today resolving the issues on the new rear rotor upgrade package.

The final bracket fit went quite well and I shall give the nod to the guys to make them asap.

What is it? A simple two piece rotor and hat upsize package with adapter brackets for the stock calipers as well as rear SS hose kit. Base price $435.

This rotor, 11.75 x .375 will replace the stocker with ease and I've satisfied my thoughts on cable issues as well. The nice part of this package is that it compliments the front kits very well and when doing the math balances out a near perfect bias result.

All the rear kits offer the same level of add-ons as the fronts for the same menu costs. This includes; gas slotting, drilling, combo, and zinc finish.

Lastly, while the parts are a week or so away I may offfer the front and rear kit as a special combo price package. If someone out there is interested in this we should talk.

And if you'd like pics of the test fit both with wheel on and wheel off please shoot me an email! The web page will be completely updated this coming week to reflect all the changes.

 

Was asked to the fit of this package to 16" wheels. I have not made an effort yet to test this on 16s. The reason for the question of fit is the back side of the caliper may be too tight against the inside of the wheel. i.e. too large a radius.

I might also add that I do not feel this is proper with some of the other kits out there depending upon how it's paired with the fronts. This alone represtes about 5% increase in rear bias. That may or may not fit well with some of the front options. (it is however a near purfect bias when paired with the TCE 13 front where it really belongs)

Also, there is NO need for spacers on this kit. Nor extended studs required.

 

Does the kit price include pads or do you just use the stockers?

 

No pads included, use any pads of your choice applicable to the rear caliper.

 

the setup looks great!I'd like to hear about your e-brake cable solution.

 

Ok I'll spill it. I tried a number of things; from pulling the anchor from the trailing arm alone, to re routing the cable under it etc.etc. Actually I ended up just putting it all back in place in stock form. Interestingly enough while at ride height it sits fine (admitedly unclipped from the first plastic anchor) and does not bind at all. Only when you have it in full droop did it become difficult to work with. A quick look at the routing will show you how this is.

** I had hoped to do the front and rear in final form this weekend but lack of hats to put it all together has slowed my work. Hats will be in hand on Wednesday from the Anodize shop and we'll be back in biz.

The final front will be matching to the rears in appearance. All drilled/slotted and zinc'd.

** And for anyone interested in a special offer I plan to replace the combo hat/rotors on the car now with the new ones rather than unbolt the rotors from the hats for this. The current rotors can be had on a kit for a discount but they are plain finish only. And they have maybe 200 miles on them....!

 

so now when yiou get airborne, you will automatically rear-brake, the torque reaction lifting the rear slightly; very cool


I ended up basically making an extension doodad for the sheath and running the cable out to the max.

 

lol, that would/could be interesting indeed.

Actually because the cable is only relative to the anchor and the anchor is also moved to the the slighly stretched postion the relationship should remain the same. When in place at the enlarged radius the weel spun as freely as it did prior.

Never the less, when I put the rears on for final fit later this week I may look at what it takes to perhaps tweek it a bit more. If there is a way to do some changes at the handle I may try that, but access looks a bit tough. The final thought is to bend the current bend a bit sofer and then a bit sharper radius later down the line.

Your spacer idea I considered for the jacket, but again I'm not sure of the difficulty of getting at the cable up front. Thoughts?

 

i made a 3/4" long spacer out of aluminum, with a slit in it so i didn't have to thread it on. It had a turned down section that popped into the hole in the chassis, securing it in place. I believe I had to drop the exhaust for access. i also modified the cable connection at the handbrake (not so hard)