Hi there Mini fans, Well after just 600 miles of dealing with these hard tractor tyres which are called runflate.My experience with them is just unsatisfying. Every time i drive it on the FWY it just tracks and wonders finding every little groove. it has so much movement on the road it seems as though it was a windy day here in southern calif.Well it doesn blow much here. So I know these tires had to go. I just got back from my local tireshop here in socal. They do great work my friends owns the shop there called globe tire and motorsports.
Well I installed a fresh set of Perilli's P zero's. What a difference getting back on to the 405. all I have to say if someone does not like the way there new mini feels or ride. Loose the runflats.


See johnny @ globe tire in Manhattan Beach. Tell him Guido sent you. He will take those runflats off your hands.

 

and can we tell him that Guido will take care of us?

 

But some like the security of the run flat. Post 'em in the Marketplace, but you won't get too much, even though they're not cheap.

Matt

 

Try gen 2 RFs, like the Bridgestone 050s, not the same as MINI OEM

Anybody got them?

 

Honestly, I am surprised to see people complain so much about the ride with runflats. We didn't buy a Cadillac, why do people insist on a smooth ride? It's supposed to be about the handling. I guess that different people buy MINIs for different reasons... I bought mine for the performance and fun aspects, not for the ride. I also happen to LIKE the stiff sidewall because it feels like it turns in sharper. And the peace of mind for not getting stranded is good too.

 

My reason for hating the runflats and now having dumped them was that the damn things went flat on me twice in only nine months and I hate having to pay $250 to $300 each time to replace a flat runflat.

 

And don't forget, the fun factor goes up with the improved grip of performance tires vs the runflats

 

Call me a heretic, but I don't mind the ride nor grip of the runflats. It still goes scary fast and is a blast. Case in point: Randy Webb took my car around Laguna Seca a few times - all stock except rear sway bar. We were catching up to the modified Minimania car, and he lamented pitting so I could take the wheel because he wanted to spank that highly modified car with my stock car. The car drifted smoothly and we weren't overrun even with me behind the wheel.
But hey, if you like the new tires, . Does Guido still have your runflats? I'll save 'em from the landfill (until they're appropriately bald!)

Cost, on the other hand, is a completely different matter. I'd never buy the stock tires new from TR, it's just not cost effective.

 

Okay heratic

To each his own, and the guy that posted was just saying what he felt was a big improvement. Its good you did well/had fun on the track but I still felt the difference of improved grip and driveability of the performance tires on the street when I switched and think its a good thing myself

 

But with non-runflats, you can get better handling with softer ride. Seems like a win-win to me, and save money at the same time. But different strokes for different folks.... That's what makes the world go round...

Matt

 

The only improvement the original poster stated was that he no longer experienced the trammeling. My RFs stopped doing it after about 2k miles (he gave up too soon).

 

But as that was only about 7 months, it wasn't too bad. Neither the Toyos or the Goodyears do it.

Matt

 

Do you have 16" or 17" wheels? I have the Dunlop runflats on 16" wheels and have no problem with tram-lining. I know that air pressure plays a big roll in how much tram-lining you get. The 17" wheels are worse than the 16" wheels.

I had the same tires on my '02 MCS that came on my '06 MCS and they are both no problem. Almost 40,000 miles of travel between the two.

I look forward to the time when these are worn out, but see no reason to replace them prior to that. My replacements will be non-runflats.

 

Too true. My comment was more about not tossing brand new tires than preferring them to the alternatives. If I were buying a new set, it wouldn't be the stockers. I also haven't driven the MINI on 'good' tires, so once I do, perhaps I'll sing a different tune!

 

Let me send you my address and you can send me your 600 mile RFs. BTW, what psi did you inflate to? Seems most people overinflate their RFs and wonder why they feel like bricks. Manual says 33 psi (17") and 30 psi (16"). I read where many inflate to the upper 30 range. That's nuts. Even I keep it at the unloaded psi, and I drive far faster than most. As far as stating RFs offer less grip than non-RFs, that's an assertion without fact. You can compare any two tires and find a grip difference, which will vary greatly over the life of the tire. Less grip is not an automatic variable of RFs. If you think so, prove it. High replacement cost is to a degree, but that's changing. Today, you can source OEM rubber on eBay for cheap (along with a set of S-lite boat anchors). I doubt that dynamic will change anytime soon. Should keep Tire Rack from selling many RFs, unless you want to pay retail. For near the money you spent on tires (a disposable item) you didn't need, you could have solved your harsh ride with Koni FSDs and improved ride, handling, and cornering all at the same time. I'm officially declaring myself a depository for unwanted new or new(ish) RFs. Keep 'em coming...

Cheers!

 

Can Johnny send them to me? I'll be in the market for a set of 16" RFs this coming spring.

...Les

 

Let's see all the races Mini's have run on stock runflats. Any autocross champs? Hmmm, while it's true that I never did a skid pad quatification, it is true that I can hit turns hotter without sliding.

I think you mean to say that it's an assertial without substansiating data. oh yea, other than the hundreds of posts from those that have switched and found that the limits in cornering are greatly improved.

And to compare eBay for runflats against retail for non, is just silly. There's a post for 18" Goodyear F1 GS-D3s going for about $250 for all four. So I guess any price is lower if you assume that eBay is the source. But you can't get any size, or any brand, or warrantys etc.

Even if you grant that the stock runflat is acceptable for how one wants to drive, they are much stiffer by design. The side wall has to take the weight when they're deflated.

I'm curious. Have you tried some of the tires you can buy for similar money? Or do you think that they're good enough, so why try?

One can also look at the wet/dry comparisons, and other reviews. I started a thread on the C&D review that was just done at CarandDriver.com, and while none of the runflats were tested (I'm sure they just thought it was a waste of time, but that also means that the study doesn't provide a direct comparison), many of the tires had wet performance that was very good, and some very bad.

I can say that my performance is enhanced with the non-runflats, and you can chose not to belive it. You can also look to all those track rats and auto crossers who ditch the tires, and chose not to believe them either.

Matt

 

I'm curious what people that switch to a non-run flat tire do for a spare. Do you all carry a spare in the boot? Do you carry a repair kit? Do you just rely on a cell phone?

I, for one, am satisfied with the performance of the factory 17" run flats. I do not auto cross or do any track days, so for me, obtaining ultimate performance is not a priority. The factory tires perform well within my expectations. Plus, I don't need to spend extra money to buy tires.

If you want to change the tires and spend the money, more power to you. For myself, and I'm guessing others, the factory tires are fine.

 

Much of the poor ride of the runflats has to do with the road surface. On asphalt they are fine. But, I too drive the 405 for part of my comute and the ride is bad enough to loosen teeth or ( I worry) parts of the car. When people talk their voices vibrate along with the car. The concrete slabs every ten feet or so make the ride very rough. Like driving over minature speed bumps. Try that for fifteen miles. I believe all cars should be tested on this road especially between the 101 and the 118 north on the 405. I love my MINI and have had more fun in it than any other car I have ever owned. But when the runflats wear out they are never coming back.

 

I don't have any problem with those that like or want the run flats. But Stevie B asserted that the run flats were just as good as non-run flat performance tires for traction, and I just don't find that to be the case. Different strokes for different folks, and that's fine.

For the stock run-flats vs non-run-flat on a pure traction level, the stockers don't stand a chance. For leaving you stranded where there's no cell service if you don't carry a fix-a-flat kit, the non-run flats don't stand a chance.

One other concern I've always had, no matter the HP or the handling of a car, there are two areas where I've always maximized performance. Tire traction and brake performance. These have an effect on emergency handling and accident avoidence, no matter what you're driving on, track or street. So I always go to stickier, less long wearing rubber for tires. But that's just me.

Matt

 

?

My comments were mainly geared toward the opening post. I didn't reference autox or the need for anything competitive. I hope you're not a lawyer.

 

For those of you who don't like the runflats and have a spare set of the goodyear 17's I'll buy 2 off of you (unless you want to give them away). They are perfect for the DC Winters.

 

As I have first hand experience of the differences on Minis, on tracks from the run-flats, Goodyear F1s, and Toyo Proxis T1-s. I also know from first hand experience that they all differ in wet traction as well. While I don't have lap times (Nor-Cal Shelby Club doesn't allow timers for open track event to keep things at 9/10ths racing), I sure know the difference, and am a good enough driver to tell. And you don't have to be very good to tell.

Do you really mean to say that you think the Stock Run-Flats stick as well as high performance rubber? Do you think that extents to race compound tires as well? Where's your proof that they stick as well, other than saying that you're happy with the traction? What compramise do you think the manufactures made to get the run-flat capabilities? None?

I was searching for direct comparisons of run-flat traction to non-run-flat traction, and haven't found anything that's real good. This is from the Tire Rack rating system....
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=EZ3&url=/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=UHP
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=EZ3&url=/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=MP

While this isn't a quantitiate comparison, the Pirelli run flat was far from the top in both wet and dry traction. Same with the Dunlop. But then agian, it is possible that all these drivers don't know their A$$ from a hole in the ground....

So, if you're so sure that the stock run flats stick as well, where's your data to back it up? I at least found the above links. I would postulate that you're assertion that the run-flats provide the same tractions is even less based in fact than my assertion that they don't. There's well over 600K of miles on the Pirellis, and over 2 Million miles driven on some of the others. Over 10 million miles on the Goodyears..

So while the jury is still out due to lack of real controlled direct comparison test data, the winds are blowing STRONGLY in one direction vs another.

Matt

 

My last two postings quote the same post by Stevie B. I'm not a lawyer, but an enthusiatic driving physicist. When it comes to emergency handling, traction is traction.

Matt

 

The opening post made the point of being unhappy with the tramlining of the stock tires and I don't see how your reply addressed that (and the part about shipping you his tires for free was supposed to..?):


Its strange how someone posts being happy with the outcome of something he had done and people are basically telling him he is wrong I could see asking him questions about it and maybe making helpful suggestions (although, since it was done already it seems kinda pointless), but the RF defenders telling the guy he is wrong for his opinion/action or whatnot and giving him attitude is bizarre - reminds me of the happy about auto MCS topics where manual shifters feel compelled to be negative and push their agenda.

Anyway, I have found that tramlining is mostly a result of tire pattern and that can be compounded with tire width. Tire pressure may have an effect on many aspects of things but in my experience it can only do so much if the pattern is prone to tramlining on the roads you use (as I recall the performance tires I have tried most prone to it were S03s, annoyed the heck out of me and it stayed for the life of the tires).

For those interested in the take offs it sounds like his friend Johnny kept them " He will take those runflats off your hands." - so perhaps call the shop - and don't forget to tell them Guido sent you