Brake Bushing Mod
Here's an inexpensive mod that costs just $59 per axel. You will need two for front and rear axel and it's entirely worth it. The mod involves removing and exchanging existing rubber bushings with brass ones. The mod goes quick, especially if you've replaced your pads once already.

For reference have a look at my Brake Pad article
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rake+pad+track

For more details on this mod, go here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=28782

I bought mine from here
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...ODUCT_ID=CBMW1

Brass Bushings in Place


One Kit (Axel)costs $59


Channel Lock Snap Ring Pliers

I would call these essential, although many have done the mod without them. Even though it cost me $19 from my local Home Depot, it made the job a pleasure!!


Tips are removable. It comes with 3 sizes. I swapped the ones that came installed with smaller ones to fit the snap rings on this mod. It's simply an unscrew, remove and insert type of deal.

Tools at Hand

Get all your tools ready.

Brake Piston Compressor Tool


Jack Up Your Car

And remove the wheel so you have full access to your calipers. Use Jack Stands for safety.

Remove Retaining Clip


Using 7mm Allen

Remove existing bushing bolt. You will have to pull the plastic caps off the rubber bushing first to access the bolt.

Carefully Set Caliper Aside

Don't let the caliper dangle by the brake line hose. I've got Stoptech SS lines here, and they will rest safely on the rotor.

Brake Bushing

With the 7mm allen removed you will see this.

Grab Bushing and Pull

You may have to pull it gently but sharply to the side to free it, but eventually it will pop out.

Empty Now

Once the bushing is removed you are left with this hole. You will need to clean the area with a brush and some brake cleaner.





Coat with Anti Seize

Apply liberally to new 7mm Allen provided in kit.

Snap Ring Plier

Open up a snap ring. My pliers came with the wrong size attachment, but the included kit had one that worked. Also, the pliers have the ability to open the snap ring either by pulling pliers apart(Default), or squeezing grips together. A small lever needs to be moved to get grips to open during squeezing.

Lock In Place


Note Bushing Orientation

The Brass Bushing has a lip. This lip needs to face against the brake pad. The idea being that should the snap ring break, the Brass Bushing will still stay attached. Use the Brake Compressor tool to compress the piston so you can put the pads back on.

Insert Assembly Together

If you insert the Brass Bushing first, then insert the lubed 7mm allen bolt, you may find it too tight a fit, especially on the front caliper due to the location of the brake hose. Instead, preassemble the 7mm allen and brass bushing and insert into caliper.

Brass Bushing Finished


Rear Calipers

There is no difference in installation procedure between the front and rear calipers although the rears are slightly easier to access.

Better feel, performance, and a great price! Can't argue that for a mod!

 

Thanks for another great article OctaneGuy

Is the brake piston compressor tool something you can get from Harbor Frieght or a local auto parts store ?

 

Its this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

Depending on when you buy it, it can range from $20-$40. I paid the higher price as it was the first thing I ever bought from HF, and didn't realize the way they work on discounts. I've got it down to almost a science now!!

We can talk about if you're interested in getting one--but definitely needed if you plan on changing the rear brake pads--or even doing this mod since you will have to remove the pads to access the bushings.

 

I have these for my M3 track car. One comment: the brass bushings leave the caliper guide pins exposed at the back of the caliper. This results in a need for regular inspection, cleaning and relubrication.

Not a problem for track junkies, since we tend to work on brakes a lot. May not necessarily be a good idea for average street use.

Neil
05 MCS
96 M3

 

Yeah I noticed that it's exposed quite a bit. So I would assume as a daily car, if it accumulates dirt it will prevent smooth operation of the caliper, huh??

I would think that anybody who has changed their brake pads--lost the brake sensor in the process and thus must do visual check, or rotates their tires regularly would be a potential candidate for this mod, since those people are more likely to not "set it and forget it".

However, the good thing is that this is reversible. If you want to go back, it's easy to do.

Richard

 

I see your bushings came with instructions. I ordered my from Tyrolsport, which didn't come with instructions. No matter. It's pretty self explanatory & the tips on the BrakeGuidePins thread & now your write up will guide others doing this mod.

 

Is there any way to fit it with a rubber boot to prevent dirt from accumulating in it... Thereby making it almost maintenance free?

 

I imagine you could fashion a little boot of some kind, but it would only cover the outer, protruding part of the guide bolt. Even the stock setup leaves the guide bolt between the caliper & brake pad carrier exposed, albeit, a small area. As far as maintenance free, that wouldn't just be for the dirt factor, but also that the Tyrolsport setup is "metal to metal", where the stock setup is a metal guide bolt with a rubber guide bushing.

 

DITTO Thanks for another superb how-to!

 

Hey: Great write up and discussion of brass bushing orientation.... I like mine quite a bit

A questions for those that installed these who live in the snow belt....

Are folks gonna put back the rubber bushings in the winter???????????

I plan to, but wondered what peoples thoughts were.....

Thanks

 

Plus, since you can remove one guide pin at a time, clean, re-lub and re-install, you don't have to remove the caliper. Really pretty easy job.

 

If you're doing this mod yourself, it's quite likely that the maintenance that goes with it will not be an issue.