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You may not need new caliper pins. Pull the old ones out, if they are undamaged then just clean the pins and the holes with brake cleaner, lube with brake grease, replace, change the pads, and you're good to go. Be careful of the little rubber boots, and be sure to check that the rotors are not below minimum thickness.
You may not need new caliper pins. Pull the old ones out, if they are undamaged then just clean the pins and the holes with brake cleaner, lube with brake grease, replace, change the pads, and you're good to go. Be careful of the little rubber boots, and be sure to check that the rotors are not below minimum thickness.
Thanks for the info! My inner pad on the passenger rear is rubbing metal to metal and ruin the rotor so I'm going to replace the rotor.
And yes, always replace brake parts as full axle sets (as in left/right complete..) Rotors.. pads.. hardware.. left/right always as a set.
Good advice. Besides, the pads come as FULL sets,(driver/pass.side) so, you may as well replace all. Just did the front brakes on my wife's '09 MCS yesterday! @SoundMessage, I'm no Master Mechanic by any stretch, but this procedure is really pretty simple and can save you LOTS of money!
I am doing the brakes on my car, and ran into the same problem with a caliper rebuild being necessary on the front passenger caliper. There's also another issue - the caliper pins are not identical for each side. One is a long smooth pin, the other is shorter, with a rubber sleeve that fits on one end.
Caliper pins look exactly like this.
I thought I had reassembled it correctly, and initially assumed the "stealership" had fished through the parts bin and just gave me some mismatched replacements... I also fought with it for a bit, but caliper pins are supposed to go in with ease. I checked Rock Auto for some new pins, and found that a reman TRW caliper would have the exact same setup.
Has anyone else run into this?
Also, how do you keep the brake fluid from draining out when you remove the caliper?