ask your local auto part store and they probably have little packets of brake lube under the counter for under a buck each rather than buying a 55 gallon drum of the stuff. I use one packet per axle but get one per wheel to be safe ... some pad brands will include a packet of brake lube with the pads (Like EBC) {on the other hand a 55 gal drum only costs about $3}

but Dan is correct, you really don't need to 'pull the caliPers' ....

you can pull one of the slider pins at a time and 99.9% of the time the caliPer isn't going anywhere.

 

This is why this forum is great. I just came here to post a few questions about the exact same issue we had on our 2006 MCS, and saw this thread. My wife (it's her daily driver) had been complaining about noise coming from the rear brakes, but the wear sensor hadn't worn through and every time I looked at the pads, they still had plenty of life on them (at least on the outers; didn't bother to remove the wheel and check out the inners). So my response was "your rotors are probably rusty or have some road crap on them - brake harder and it should clean off." Oops! Bad advice.

She kept complaining so I finally figured I'd just go ahead and replace the pads since they were getting to that point anyway. (I had done the fronts separately last year.) Sure enough the inner pad of the driver side (not the wear sensor side) was worn clean down to the backing plate, while the outer pad still had plenty pad material:





This phenomenon has never happened to me before (on any of my cars), but reading through this thread, I now understand why that happened. Passenger side was fine.

I replaced with a set of EBC pads, which conveniently came with a small packet of grease, which I of course applied generously to the slide pins. Will check them again in a few weeks to see if everything is wearing evenly. Thanks all for the useful info.

 

I wonder if this is why I'm hearing noise on braking from my front passenger side. Is replacing pads an easy DIY?

 

Yes, assuming a moderate level of mechanical aptitude. There is a detailed walk-through thread posted somewhere on this forum on changing brakes that makes it about as dummy-proof as it can be.

 

It looks like something I can handle, based on the threads I've found.

I hear a dry-sounding rubbing noise coming from the front passenger side on braking. Kinda like a "SHSHSHSHSSHSHSHSHHHHHHH" sound, if that makes any sense. It's louder if I brake harder, and stops when the car stops.

A visual inspection of outer pads shows them all with plenty of material left. This weekend, I should be able to take the wheels off and check the inner pads. I suspect I'll find the inner pad worn down on the front passenger side.

If that's the case, can someone please clarify what to do with the calliper? I assume that simply replacing the pads is just going to result in the same issue of uneven wear. However, I'm not sure exactly what I'm checking with the "pins", and how to tell whether or not I need to rebuild the callipers, etc.

Also, (and this is probably a really STUPID question), but if I replace the pads on my front passenger side, I also need to do the front driver side at the same time, regardless of wear...right?

 

Are you talking front or rear brakes? What model?

 

Front. '09 Clubman S.

 

Pretty basic design. Several DIYs online. Just use good tools/chemicals/right stuff/good hardware you'll have no problems.

Here's a good DIY

http://r56mini.com/cooper/diydiscsandpads/

And yes, always replace brake parts as full axle sets (as in left/right complete..) Rotors.. pads.. hardware.. left/right always as a set.

 

Hello, everyone. I came back from the almost 3 week trip and I did my first DIY project last weekend. All went well, even though of multiple hardware store visits... As I suspected, the right (passenger) rear inner pad was completely worn out (where the noise came from) while the outer pad has a good amount left. One thing I noticed and got me worried was that the left (driver side) rear inner pad was also completely worn out as well... are both calipers gone bad? Attaching the left rear pads pictures...

But with +100 miles driving, no squeals or any signs of issues. fingers crossed.

Thanks everyone for help.

 

Did you do anything to your callipers to fix the uneven wear? Or did you just replace pads and plan to see how it goes??

 

Not really. I wasn't sure if the calipers were the cause, so only thing I did was to clean the calipers and the boots as much as I could and applied silicone lubes underneath the boots. I am planning to check the pads in few weeks to see how the pads are worn.

 

Cleaning the inside of each caliper with some compressed air and isopropyl alcohol typically does the trick. Brake Pad Change On Your MINI

 

Great thread I came across, My brake light has been on for a couple weeks now and also an icon of a car lifted came up.

I received quotes for brake service ranging from $410-450 USD.

But I'm going to get this done myself since I read it's straight foward.
But can I get some recommendation on Places/Sites/Brands to purchase brake pads and rotors? Thanks in advance everyone.

 

I was looking for brake repair, what a great thread this is.

Was calling around and was quoted $410-450USD for Brake and Rotor replacement.

Decided to do it myself since I read it was pretty straight forward and found this thread. Anyone can recommend some Brand/Sites/Places to make purchases for brake or rotors?

 

ECS, Waymotorworks, outmotoring... all good places.. I'd even chalk up RockAuto for some ATE brake hardware if they carry it.

 

coopercarly- we offer a kit for your Cooper which includes pads, rotors, wears sensors & retaining bolts - part#PEL-BBKMINIM2-02. You can find further information here:
Basic Brake Kits/'09+ MINI Cooper

Have you checked your rotors to see if they actually need replacing?

Let us know if you have any questions
Mark/Pelican Parts

 

Sorry for my ignorance, what's ATE?

I want to get stock brake pads, is the dealer the only place I can find stock pads?
Or recommend pads that are exact feel and response as stock pads, but last longer?

 

ATE (pronounced Ah-Tay)... Is a German OE brake supplier for many Euro cars.

They make everything from pads, rotors, master cylinders, ABS hardware... Etc..

If you like the stock pads, but want longer life you might look into EBC Green Stuffs (brand/type). They are a very good every day pad with good life, light dusting, and quiet. I've run them on several other cars

I've also had good luck with...

Napa Gold (Wagner)
Jurid
Centric
And Satisfied

edit - I see ECS sells the OE brakes as a kit with all hardware.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2008-C...ads/ES2587885/

 

Thanks for the info danjreed.

So when I'm driving, the BRAKE light stays on and the icon with a Carlift is on. I think the Carlift icon is because I need oil change, and my oil is dirty when I checked it., but why does my BRAKE LIGHT Stay on.

I took off the tires to check the thickness of the pads on all four tires and the brake pads all look good, but I wasn't able to tell which was the brake sensor, it maybe hidden behind the caliper? I have to remove caliper?
And is there only 1 brake sensor for the front and only one for the back?

 

Driver's side front and Passenger's side rear. The sensor is pressed into the top middle of the inside pad.

 

This page may be useful.

http://www.robertsdonovan.com/?p=1566

Its the wire on the backside of the pads.

(this is off an e36 BMW.. but you get the idea..)

The front sensor is located on the inboard drivers side of the car... the rear sensor is on the passenger side (inboard)..

The warning can just be a broken or missing sensor.

 

Thanks a lot for the great info, links and photos.

 

I bought some of this some years ago and although it seems like a lifetime supply even for an avid amature, I have been very impressed with its performance on every type of brake caliper. Actually, I've even used it in other apps and its a great hi-temp 'non-grease'.

 

Yes, that's the good stuff. I was just talking about it on a recent thread with a few tips:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...791-post9.html

. . . best to apply with a small brush. There is no need to put a tone. Just a very thin layer. on the pads most would get squeezed out anyway...

 

Are these the Caliper Pins I need? My rear right inner pad is down to the metal!