Do I need to reset TPM after tire rotation?
#1
Do I need to reset TPM after tire rotation?
I finally had my tires rotated at 10, 000 miles. Right Front tire to right rear and left front tire to left rear
Also I had "low tire" indication due to low air. I had 30lbs of air in each tire.
After rotations and air in tired, I don't see the "low tire" indicator anymore.
Do I need to reset the TPM or not? Also, if so, how to do it?
Thanks in advance
Also I had "low tire" indication due to low air. I had 30lbs of air in each tire.
After rotations and air in tired, I don't see the "low tire" indicator anymore.
Do I need to reset the TPM or not? Also, if so, how to do it?
Thanks in advance
#2
#6
I actually sort of disagree with sequence. Tire pressure should be adjusted seasonally but set to the correct pressure settings each season. If they are set correctly in the cold weather they should be OK for the cold season. Come warm weather they must be adjusted again (let air out) or they will have too much for summer. "sequence" is correct that you need to add more air in cold weather but you should still set it to the correct pressure for and not more than recommended at that time.
#7
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#8
#9
Ordinary air is almost 80% nitrogen, although that doesn't really matter here. What does matter is that all gases change pressure with changes in temperature at the same rate, at least if my high school physics teacher was correct .
#10
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, Florida
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Nitrogin
Use the Nitrogen and you won't have your low pressure lights coming on when the temp goes down at night. Living in Daytona Beach the Tenp can drop from 80/85 to 35/40 overnight and back up to 80+. When it is that cold the low warning light will come on if you just have air in the tires. Put the Nitrogen in and you will never see that light all winter.
The point is: Air is free - Nitrogen is not. I don't care if air is 80% nitrogen because it is the 20% oxygen that causes the problem. Get the 20% oxygen out and problem solved.
As everybody knows: When they take stuff out they charge more, Like diet food when they remove the calories they charge you more.
If you are the type of person that can ignore the light just use air. The light will go out as the temp goes up. If not get the Nitrogen weather it is worth the $$$ or not.
Most places when you pay for the initial fill with the nitrogen you can go back and get top-off fills of the nitrogen for no charge for the life of the tires.
*****************************************Oh! Yea! set the monitor after rotating the tires.******************************************** *****
The point is: Air is free - Nitrogen is not. I don't care if air is 80% nitrogen because it is the 20% oxygen that causes the problem. Get the 20% oxygen out and problem solved.
As everybody knows: When they take stuff out they charge more, Like diet food when they remove the calories they charge you more.
If you are the type of person that can ignore the light just use air. The light will go out as the temp goes up. If not get the Nitrogen weather it is worth the $$$ or not.
Most places when you pay for the initial fill with the nitrogen you can go back and get top-off fills of the nitrogen for no charge for the life of the tires.
*****************************************Oh! Yea! set the monitor after rotating the tires.******************************************** *****
Last edited by ronnie948; 11-01-2010 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Spelling
#11
The gas nitrogen expands just like oxygen. It's not the gases expanding with the temperature, it's the water that's in the tires mixed with the air that makes them change pressure. The nitrogen is pure, no water. Like the old Olympia Beer ads: It's the water!
(BTW I use nitrogen, and my pressure stays the same all the time. I asked them to put it in for free when I got new tires and they did).
(BTW I use nitrogen, and my pressure stays the same all the time. I asked them to put it in for free when I got new tires and they did).
#12
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The end result is all that counts.
Whatever it is, The fact is==== If you use Nitrogen in your tires the low pressure light will not come on at all unless the temp goes from 80/85 down to way below zero. I'm not even sure if the light would come on then. I wish my Michelin Tire store had nitrogen. I have to go to the Chevy dealer to get it.
The Chevy dealer got it when they had so many complaints about the pressure monitors on the Corvettes years ago. It stopped a lot of confusion because they started putting it in Corvette Tires before thay sold the car. No more complaints about the sensors when the Temp. dropped.
The Chevy dearer has a machine that purges all four tires at the same time. Then it fills them up. The tires still have 1 or 2 % of oxygen by volume but still 98/99 % is pure nitrogen. If you had wheels with two valve stems they can purge 100% and give you pure 100% nitrogen.
For street driving the nitragen works very well. I used it in my Corvette and now I use it in my Mini JCW.
The Chevy dealer got it when they had so many complaints about the pressure monitors on the Corvettes years ago. It stopped a lot of confusion because they started putting it in Corvette Tires before thay sold the car. No more complaints about the sensors when the Temp. dropped.
The Chevy dearer has a machine that purges all four tires at the same time. Then it fills them up. The tires still have 1 or 2 % of oxygen by volume but still 98/99 % is pure nitrogen. If you had wheels with two valve stems they can purge 100% and give you pure 100% nitrogen.
For street driving the nitragen works very well. I used it in my Corvette and now I use it in my Mini JCW.
#15
Actually, if all the tires had the same pressure before rotation, it's not a tire
pressure issue tripping the light. If the fronts and rears have a different amount
of tread remaining, then the computer will see a change in rotation speeds when you
rotate the tires and that can trip the light. Just need to reset it after rotating.
pressure issue tripping the light. If the fronts and rears have a different amount
of tread remaining, then the computer will see a change in rotation speeds when you
rotate the tires and that can trip the light. Just need to reset it after rotating.
#17
Tripped over $750 to save $50
So...I didn't want to spend the $80 - $100 most places were going to charge to put my snowtires on my 2009 Mini Cooper S. I found a local joint that would do it for $10/tire...kinda shady, but I was all about the savings...no receipt, nothin'.
They jacked up ALL 4 sensors in the process of getting old tires off and/or snow tires on...and the computer read, "inactive" regardless of how many attempts I took on the reset process.
Dealer says it's non warranty since they are damaged and parts and labor for replacement will run about $750. Dealer said they have no way of turning off the idiot light that won't turn off because the sensors are not working right. So I have to deal with glowing yellow light until I am willing to drop the $.
I'M WONDERING IF ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS OF ANY AFTER MARKET METHODS FOR TURNING OFF THIS WARNING LIGHT, SO I CAN JUST CHECK IT MANUALLY LIKE I WOULD ANY OTHER CAR.
OR...ALTERNATIVELY....ANYONE KNOW OF ANY MORE AFFORDABLE OPTIONS TO REPLACE THE MONITORS (I KNOW I KNOW...I GOT BIT IN THE BUTT TRYING TO SAVE MONEY THE FIRST TIME, I PROLLY SHOULD NOT TRY TO DO IT AGAIN, BUT STILL....)
ANYONE?
They jacked up ALL 4 sensors in the process of getting old tires off and/or snow tires on...and the computer read, "inactive" regardless of how many attempts I took on the reset process.
Dealer says it's non warranty since they are damaged and parts and labor for replacement will run about $750. Dealer said they have no way of turning off the idiot light that won't turn off because the sensors are not working right. So I have to deal with glowing yellow light until I am willing to drop the $.
I'M WONDERING IF ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS OF ANY AFTER MARKET METHODS FOR TURNING OFF THIS WARNING LIGHT, SO I CAN JUST CHECK IT MANUALLY LIKE I WOULD ANY OTHER CAR.
OR...ALTERNATIVELY....ANYONE KNOW OF ANY MORE AFFORDABLE OPTIONS TO REPLACE THE MONITORS (I KNOW I KNOW...I GOT BIT IN THE BUTT TRYING TO SAVE MONEY THE FIRST TIME, I PROLLY SHOULD NOT TRY TO DO IT AGAIN, BUT STILL....)
ANYONE?
#19
I recently rotated my tires on my R57, did not reset the TPMS sensors, and never got the warning light. Also, my other car which also has TPMS sensors in each wheel never required the sensors to be reset after a tire rotation.
#20
#21
Which is totally bizarre I think. Oil change intervals are open to great debate...but...almost any tire store/manufacturer, etc. will tell you tires last longer if rotated regularly. I try to do mine front to rear every 5K miles or so.
#22
It all has to do with wear patterns. I prefer to replace all 4 tires when the fronts are shot.
I also subscribe to the school of replacing tires below 6/32" tread depth for snow use, and below 4/32" for wet use to avoid hydroplaning. Even though legal is 2/32".
Good explanation here on tread depth.
Neat little tread depth gages.
And OCIs need not be debated - there is science out there supporting longer intervals. I did get an oil analysis done on my diesel truck at 10,000 miles and 8 months OCI on the oil to help convince myself.
I expect to do 6 month OCIs on the MINI, as it sees lots of short grocery getter trips. 1st change was 5,000 miles at 5 months. If it ever did get run out to 10,000 miles I may get the oil analyzed. Now 20,000 OCIs as recommended by MINI - I agree that is just whack. Love to see that oil analysis!
Last edited by MCS Fever; 01-11-2011 at 08:40 AM.
#23
Rotated my tires at like 5100 miles no TPMS reset, light never came on. I should probably check the pressure on my way home getting gas tonight, it's been a while.
And sure your oil can handle the extended drain intervals exceeding 3000, 5000, or even 7500 miles, but have you seen how small the mini's filter is?
Here was my 1k oil change:
I was a little surprised to find that enormous shaving in there, which made me glad I did it. I'll do another at 7500 before I go in for my 15k, although I think my annual visit might be pretty close to 7500 miles.
And sure your oil can handle the extended drain intervals exceeding 3000, 5000, or even 7500 miles, but have you seen how small the mini's filter is?
Here was my 1k oil change:
I was a little surprised to find that enormous shaving in there, which made me glad I did it. I'll do another at 7500 before I go in for my 15k, although I think my annual visit might be pretty close to 7500 miles.
#24
Dealer says it's non warranty since they are damaged and parts and labor for replacement will run about $750. Dealer said they have no way of turning off the idiot light that won't turn off because the sensors are not working right. So I have to deal with glowing yellow light until I am willing to drop the $.
OR...ALTERNATIVELY....ANYONE KNOW OF ANY MORE AFFORDABLE OPTIONS TO REPLACE THE MONITORS (I KNOW I KNOW...I GOT BIT IN THE BUTT TRYING TO SAVE MONEY THE FIRST TIME, I PROLLY SHOULD NOT TRY TO DO IT AGAIN, BUT STILL....)
ANYONE?
OR...ALTERNATIVELY....ANYONE KNOW OF ANY MORE AFFORDABLE OPTIONS TO REPLACE THE MONITORS (I KNOW I KNOW...I GOT BIT IN THE BUTT TRYING TO SAVE MONEY THE FIRST TIME, I PROLLY SHOULD NOT TRY TO DO IT AGAIN, BUT STILL....)
ANYONE?
Find a reputable tire dealer, use Tire Racks dealer locator, that can deal with TPMS sensors and Run Flats if you still have them on, and have them install 4 new compitable after market TPMS sensors and remount your tires. It's still going to cost you $$$ though.
Here is one link for aftermarket TPMS Sensors that may be compatible, about 1/2 the price of OEM's. The tire center, maybe even Tire Rack, may have a more affordable option.
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...nitor_set.html
As a comparison;
For just about $1K. I had a set of winter wheels and tires tires, complete with sensors, sent to me from ALex at Tire Rack. Installed them and reset the system.