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Lug Studs Sheered Off in the backplate.

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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 01:50 PM
  #1  
Xer0 Ph0kus's Avatar
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Lug Studs Sheered Off in the backplate.

So I had a lug stud sheer off of my front left tire while driving. When removing the tire to try to get it out and see what I could do I sheered another one. Now I have two sheered bolts in this backplate that sits under the rotor and no clue how to get this backplate off.

This is what I'm looking at currently.

I have no clue how to get that backplate off to get it to a machine shop to get them to take those broken shanks out. Any ideas?

Thanks a ton
 
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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A couple of things to try first...If you have a Dremel-like tool, use the cutting wheel to cut a slot in the top of the broken-off bolt and then try to turn it out with a screwdriver.

I've had high-stress bolts snap before and sometimes they aren't that tight. You might even be able to turn them with your finger.

Alternatively, you can try drilling the bolt and then using an "ez-out" to remove the bolt (an EZ-out is a like a coarse threaded drill bit that will screw into the hole you've drilled, but it will screw in reverse-threaded so while you are turning it "in" it will try to turn the bolt out).

Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 06:29 PM
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Good ideas in the above post...

...the other alternative is to pop the ball joint and remove the axle nut to get the splined part of the cv shaft out of that hub,
then remove the four bolts that hold the hub assembly in from the back side of the knuckle,
depending on the mileage of your car, you may want to just get a new hub assembly and not even bother messing with the broken lug studs.
 

Last edited by Partsman; Dec 19, 2009 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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Xer0 Ph0kus's Avatar
Xer0 Ph0kus
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Originally Posted by jgohlke
Alternatively, you can try drilling the bolt and then using an "ez-out" to remove the bolt (an EZ-out is a like a coarse threaded drill bit that will screw into the hole you've drilled, but it will screw in reverse-threaded so while you are turning it "in" it will try to turn the bolt out).

Good luck!
I don't have either which is why I'm asking. I'd rather not go out in these snowstorms and get stuff that won't work. I was thinking an ez-out to get it but I was worried it would be too stuck in there to get it out anyway. The dremel idea does seem like a pretty good idea though, might be worth checking in to. Thanks a ton for the idea.

Originally Posted by Partsman
Good ideas in the above post...

...the other alternative is to pop the ball joint and remove the axle nut to get the splined part of the cv shaft out of that hub,
then remove the four bolts that hold the hub assembly in from the back side of the knuckle,
depending on the mileage of your car, you may want to just get a new hub assembly and not even bother messing with the broken lug studs.
Is the removal done buy prying the silver ring up off at the location where that little key is? Then attaching a 32mm socket onto the front there or is it something much more complex. I was looking at the hub assy and I just can't seem to get it to move. Any ideas?

You guys are great. This is really helping to better my mood since my poor car is undrivable and the heat and ac won't work! Which is a whole nother issue.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Xer0 Ph0kus
So I had a lug stud sheer off of my front left tire while driving. When removing the tire to try to get it out and see what I could do I sheered another one. Now I have two sheered bolts in this backplate that sits under the rotor and no clue how to get this backplate off. This is what I'm looking at currently.

I have no clue how to get that backplate off to get it to a machine shop to get them to take those broken shanks out. Any ideas? Thanks a ton
If you do try to EZY Out, here's a vid:

Here is a write up: The Art of Extraction
Oh, I'd also recommend you Anti-Seize studs.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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get some PB blaster, soak it like crazy for a few hours. Then try the ezy out. But PB blast is first!!!

Scott.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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Others will disagree....but I'll take a lug nut/bolt with anti-seeze used on it any day.

Soaking it with some PB or WD for a while is a good start. You may be able to use a chisel to turn it free. Once loosened up some more oil will make it come out. Although the new hub idea does have some time-line merit. (oh, and then put some anti-seeze on the bolts next time, drop the tq about 10%)
 
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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The question is why did the wheel bolt break? Was it vibrating or making noise? Most of the time broken bolts are caused by being loose and if that was the case the remaining part should be fairly easy to remove.I've had good luck with left handed drillbits,usually the end of the stud spins out as it is being drilled.The downside is left handed bits are sort of hard to find and you need a reversible drill.If the bolts broke while being undone then the ends remaining are stuck in the hub and were probably crossthreaded and replacement of the hub would be in order as the cost to repair the hub would likely exceed the cost of a new part.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Xer0 Ph0kus
Is the removal done buy prying the silver ring up off at the location where that little key is? Then attaching a 32mm socket onto the front there or is it something much more complex. I was looking at the hub assy and I just can't seem to get it to move. Any ideas?
You can straighten out the indent on the axle nut if you want, but the socket on a 1/2" drive impact will take it right off.
Just looking at it isn't going to get it to move unless you use the force or something. LoL
The axle nut is on there pretty good...you'll either need a big breaker bar with a socket while someone is stepping on the brake or a 1/2" drive impact.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wdietz186
The question is why did the wheel bolt break? Was it vibrating or making noise? Most of the time broken bolts are caused by being loose and if that was the case the remaining part should be fairly easy to remove.I've had good luck with left handed drillbits,usually the end of the stud spins out as it is being drilled.The downside is left handed bits are sort of hard to find and you need a reversible drill.If the bolts broke while being undone then the ends remaining are stuck in the hub and were probably crossthreaded and replacement of the hub would be in order as the cost to repair the hub would likely exceed the cost of a new part.
The first one broke off from being loose. But when I went to remove the tire to put my snow tires on the extra tension applied to other stud caused it to get stuck in there. So one would be pretty easy probably, and one not so much.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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From: Dover, DE
Originally Posted by Partsman
You can straighten out the indent on the axle nut if you want, but the socket on a 1/2" drive impact will take it right off.
Just looking at it isn't going to get it to move unless you use the force or something. LoL
The axle nut is on there pretty good...you'll either need a big breaker bar with a socket while someone is stepping on the brake or a 1/2" drive impact.
I'm actually looking at trying the big breaker bar idea in a few minutes, I'll let you know how it goes. Otherwise it looks like I'm taking the whole assy off and taking it to a machine shop. Man I don't want to know the expense of that.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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Why is there so much rust on that hub?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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Because they are untreated steel. They rust.

Call your local NAPA store and see if they have a local service center that can handle it if you bring in the whole knuckle assembly. (maybe take a pic with you)

The issue now will be to remove that stub axle nut....good luck with that one! Unless luck is on your side you'll need the other two lug nuts used to jam a prybar between to counter act the required tq to loosen it. Or put the wheel back on and car on ground. Don't know exact spec but I'll wager 160-200ft lbs. Damn good impact gun or more likely a long breaker bar with some penetrating oil behind it as soon as it begins to move.

Next you'll be faced with popping out the stub axle itself before you can get to the flange. One step at a time...but you have a long weekend.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by toddtce
Because they are untreated steel. They rust.

Call your local NAPA store and see if they have a local service center that can handle it if you bring in the whole knuckle assembly. (maybe take a pic with you)

The issue now will be to remove that stub axle nut....good luck with that one! Unless luck is on your side you'll need the other two lug nuts used to jam a prybar between to counter act the required tq to loosen it. Or put the wheel back on and car on ground. Don't know exact spec but I'll wager 160-200ft lbs. Damn good impact gun or more likely a long breaker bar with some penetrating oil behind it as soon as it begins to move.

Next you'll be faced with popping out the stub axle itself before you can get to the flange. One step at a time...but you have a long weekend.
Well I was able to easy out one of the studs when I got one of my friends to give it a shot. So I have just 1 stud in the way, which allows my car to be drivable in emergencies until the new hub comes in.

I was actually able to get the axle nut off though. I put my lacrosse stick over my breaker bar to make a 4 foot long pole and we were able to break it free. It took me holding the socket in place, someone holding the breaks, and someone else turning it. I could see my lax stick bending a bit too haha. But it came off, what a pain in the butt.

Thanks everyone for the ideas, and the support. I learned a lot about my car throughout all this though, so its not all bad. I missed getting my hands dirty on this bad boy.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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If you do drive it be sure to re-torque the axle nut before it is driven.The nut not only holds the axle stub in but it also keeps the hub in the bearing.If it were to come completely loose or off you could lose the wheel after it broke the caliper and/or knuckle. Makes lots of noise and causes unintended changes of direction.
 
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