Im at a stage where I need to consider changing my tires/wheels.

This is the scenario

- I have 17" Wheels on my car (with non-runflats), the tires needs to be upgraded.
- I have the 16" OEM wheel with brand new Pirelli Run-flats on

* I sometimes do high speed highway travelling
this can be dangerous with non-runflats, especially with a small car like a MINI
@ high speeds (but whats the chances of getting a puncture at high speeds? - but then again, anyone can be in the small percentage)
* I occasionally race, so i need some sort of performance.

So should I get new tires or should I go back to runflats?

 

If you look around here on the site you will find many opinions on run flats VS Non Runflats. Most of what i have read here seem to take the runflats off and get a set of good performance tires, this includes myself. I have 3 sets, one for summer , one for Winter and the runflats that i dont use anymore. All are mounted incase i need a spare.
Good luck, and you may want to contact Alex at Tirerack as he can give you alot of options

 

In my personal order of preference:

1. Sell the 16s to someone who hasn't heard about 17s or how crappf run-flats are, and who will give you a good price. A 50-something lady who drives an automatic Cooper comes to mind.

2. Put the 16s back on and wear out the runflats. Might as well be frugal, no matter how much they suck. The harder you drive, the faster they will wear out. Tires have a shelf life, so don't think that you can just keep them in the garage for several years.

3. Regardless of whether you do 1 or 2 above, buy a nice set of non-runflats for your 17" wheels, and enjoy.

4. If you live in a snowy region, make the 17s summer tires and keep the 16" rims for dedicated snow tires. Alternatively, use one set of wheels for track days, with R-compound tires. Depending on the type of course you run, you might find the 16s better for autocross and the 17s better for longer tracks.

To answer your question, I personally see no advantage of runflats other than the convenience of not being stuck on the side of the road changing a flat (especially with no spare in a MCS). I'm willing to trade that convenience for the much more valuable (to me) performance of high-quality "real" tires. Of course, my definition of a timing belt replacement interval on a noninterference motor is the period between belt failures. YMMV.

If you are an alert, competent driver who maintains the tire pressure and the rest of the car in good shape, there is no significant safety issue of catching a flat at high speed. I have catastrophically blown out tires at well over 100mph in less stable platforms than the MINI, and had no problem controlling the car. If you drive at 100mph with your knees while txting ur bff, however, you may experience a thinner safety margin.

 

It will come down to how you feel about flats on the highway. The chances of getting a catastrophic blow out that would cause an immediate flat is very small, usually a case of getting a puncture and have it slowly go flat.

So what ever makes you feel comfortable.

 

Sell the 16" wheels/tires or keep for winter tires.
Install good non run-flat tires on the 17" wheels.

 

This is just an asinine statement.

And yes, this is coming from a 50-something lady who drives a new automatic Cooper S, and loves it. 16" run flats (for the time being) and all.

 

The main thing you will gain from going to 17" wheels over 16" is the small sidewall look. So, if you want to impress teenagers...

Usually, a 17" wheel will be heavier than a 16". This is a performance disadvantage. Increasing unsprung weight adversely affects acceleration, handling, braking and ride comfort.

Another advantage of a 16" wheel on a MINI, the taller tire sidewall can absorb more of the impact from bumps. This will vary with the tire model.

The performance gain you get from the larger wheel (shorter sidewall) is a slightly quicker turn-in response. This will vary with the tire model.

People who track their MINIs often prefer smaller wheels because they believe the reduced unsprung weight is a greater advantage than the turn-in advantage.

An article I read somewhere said that the 2nd Gen suspension was designed for 16" wheels. IIRC, it was an interview with a MINI spokesperson.

 

I have 17" wheels for my summer tires and 16" for my winter tires. Whenever I switch from the 17" to the 16" (like I just did yesterday) I feel like I've added 20 HP.

My 17" wheels are the first gen S-lites, which are known to be heavy (never got around to changing them for something better), so that probably magnifies the difference.

 

My (GEN 1) summer tires are 16's and my winter is 15'......amazing how the lighter weight makes a huge difference!! (It is one of the cheapest way to add power to a car...reducing it's unsprung weight!) 17's+18' are cool looking IMO, but unless you have pricey 2 piece rims, they are strictly for looks....and one big pothole, you loose a sidewall, rim or a strut tower. Also the smaller tires are much cheaper....

In your case I would get winter tires for the 16's....and max performance summers on the 17's...(IF you need them in you climate) they also tend to be lighter too!!....the run-flats used should get you $20+ each or so...some people do want to keep them for safety or convenience reasons.

You could also keep one set of rims for race only.....and get really sticky tires!! I would not worry about a blowout at highways speeds.....buy a quality tire, and glance at them every few days, look for bubbles, and check the pressures. Then have AAA, a cell phone, and a plug-kit/12v inflator, or a can of Fix-A-Flat!!

 

Hankook RS-2s are $75 each on closeout at TireRack in 215/45-17.