Here is an illustrated sequence for replacement of the front rotors on the R56. It is also of use in simple brake pad replacement. Many thanks to OXYBLUECOOP for the torque specs (responding to my request at https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nd-rotors.html ). Forgive my partially red-painted parts in the photos.

Tools:
1. T50 Torx socket
2. Torque wrench
3. 13mm and 16mm sockets
4. A THIN 11/16" open-end wrench
5. Small breaker bar
6. Brake system cleaner
7. Loctite Blue

Sequence:

1. Remove wheel
2. Loosen T50 Torx bolt (don't remove it yet). Use breaker bar if necessary. Don't do this if you are only replacing pads.



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3. Remove brake caliper bolts with the 13mm socket, using the THIN 11/16" (or metric equivalent) open-end wrench to secure the inner nut that is fixed to the brake bracket. Make sure that you hold the caliper assembly so that it does not drop away as the bolts come out. MINI says to replace the caliper bolts each time you do brake service. When I did my rear brakes, they kindly included 2 of the 4 needed for replacement. I lightly wire-brushed and inspected my originals and reused them this time.

Slide the caliper forward off of the brake bracket and place it on the top of the hub assembly. You can secure it with a bit of wire so that it does not fall off and damage the brake line. If the caliper does not come off easily, wiggle it a bit out of position and gently pull it toward you to depress the piston and get some more clearance.

Put a bit of Loctite Blue on the two caliper bolts and put aside (the thread lock has to set up for 15 minutes).

Remove the brake pads. If you are only doing a brake pad replacement, skip to Step 8.



4. Remove the two bolts securing the brake bracket to the steering knuckle using a 16mm socket and a small breaker bar. Remove the bracket. Give it a good cleaning with brake cleaner.



5. While supporting the old rotor, remove the Torx bolt, then remove the rotor. If you have a JCW drilled and slotted rotor, cracked at all of the drill holes or not, wing the rotor into the backyard with extreme prejudice, making sure that there are no nuns or orphans downrange.

Carefully clean the hub/rotor mating face. Get your new rotors ready by cleaning them with a brake cleaner spray. You have to get all of the machining oil off of them.






6. Place the new rotor into position and insert the Torx bolt. The lugnut holes pretty much line up perfectly. Torque the Torx bolt to 20 ft-lb (27Nm).



7. Reattach the brake bracket, torquing the 16mm hex bolts to 81 ft-lb (110Nm). Jack the car a little higher if you need more clearance to work with the torque wrench.

8. Place a dab/smear of brake pad grease on the metal-to-metal contact areas of your brake pads and slide them into the clips on the brake bracket. You will need to retract the piston on the caliper to gain clearance for your new pads (see other DIYs for this procedure - and get the $20 Northern Tools brake kit!). Make sure that you don't overflow your brake fluid reservoir, etc. etc.

9. Slide the caliper assembly into place, and insert the 13mm hex bolts (with the Loctite Blue) to finger tight. Using the 11/16 THIN open-end wrench to hold the inner nut, torque the 13mm bolts to 25 ft-lb (35Nm). Go easy.

10. Bolt up your wheels (103 ft-lb on the R56 (139Nm)). Get inside your mean MINI machine and pump the brakes until they come up. Check your brake fluid reservoir. Then head out and perform the rotor and pad bed-in procedure that is called out by your supplier.


That's it.

 

Very Well Done

 

Awesome! Thanks Halifax for the great write up!

 

Thanks very much. This thread should be a sticky!

 

thanks for the great write-up!

I got a wire going into the caliper hole in the center on photo #3. Probably something to do with DSC...

Anyway - how do I remove it before pulling off the caliper please ?

Thanks!

 

Nice write up. It should be noted that doing the rear brakes are very similar minus the fact that you need to disengage the hand brake. Good job!

 

Many thanks for the write-up. Not a difficult task overall, but great to have solid info.

 

I followed this DIY over the weekend and found it to be pretty good for my 09 clubman.

I have a suggestion. on my car, the inner nut of the caliper mount is 15mm. and I found a great tool for the task. a bicycle cone wrench. go to a full service bike store or a supplier online and ask for
Park Double-Ended Cone Wrench - 15mm/16mm - DCW-2
should cost about 5 bucks. the 16 side is useful if there is corrosion or tenacious buildup on the flats, but 15 works if the nut is clean. the cone wrench is up to the task here because you are just holding it still, not reefing on the thing. park tool makes higher quality flat cone wrenches if you want em.

cars with brake wear sensors need to pay attention on the left side if the wear sensor has not triggered and want to reuse. it needs to be pulled before the caliper can be removed.

 

1 other thing.
after only 3 winters in the salt belt, I found the torx rotor screw to be a pretty tough one to pull. both sides had rusty threads. I cleaned them up and coated with never seize (molybdenum disulfide). this stuff should hang on even at the hi temps of brake parts. I moved to the back axle and coated their torx screws as well. my rear brakes were replaced at 20k and these were already tough to remove. hoping that this PM means i never have to drill them out.

 

What a wonderful procedure to DIY guys like me. Many Thanks.

 

Bump, thanks again for a great DIY.

 

I'm currently screwing the torx rotor screw pooch. I stripped it completely. I drilled it out to Easy out the screw but ended up breaking the Easy Out head. I'm going to have to drill out the rest of the screw head to get the rotor off. Here's hoping there is enough screw exposed to try and work it out without the rotor on.

 

Yep, same as on my '13 Clubman! Thanks for the tip! I just did the front rotors & pads yesterday for the first time - all the prior servicing had been done by dealer 100 miles (and $$$) away.

I went looking for a 15mm open-ender when the recommended 11/16" was found to be waaaayyy too loosey, remembered my bicycle tools had one of those! Worked like a charm it did!

 

I hate those darn things.

 

Good idea! Thanks for the tip.