What's up guys,

So I have a brake job coming up in the near future and I think I will need to replace the rotors along with the pads (rotors have a bit of a wave pattern if you trace you finger across its radius). So my goal is to try and keep the cost of this fairly low. I have what may be a clutch change coming up in the next 2 or 3 months so I ant to make sure I have money saved up for all the stuff that goes along with that. Also I am cheap, at age 18 it should be to suprising but there it is.

Basically I am wondering what the least amount of money I want to spend on rotors is. I have rotors made by both Centric and Raybetsos (which are sold by Advance Auto) going for about $30 a pop, which is good, however paying that little for such a major component worries me slightly. So, how is the quality on these?

If it is a no go then it a toss up between the ATE slotted and the Cryostops sold by tirerack, both look nice from the aesthetics point and the Cryostops would even keep me G-stock legal for my AXing.

 

I can tell you of my past experience with advance auto parts rotors...I had them in the back only for a while...after about 2 weeks here in south florida, they were pretty rusty! I have seen rust on rotors before, but never after such a short time. Other than that, I think a rotor is a rotor. It may be pretty soft which will lead to a short life of the rotor. I would say that if you are ok with rusty rotors, then go for it. Mine were about $20 each for the rear rotors.

BTW, The bmw rotors can turn a little brownish with rust, but they never looked like they were sitting for 10 years...these looked bad like they were taken off of a junker after 2 weeks of high humidity and a bit of rain.

 

OEM rotors are partly finished to resist rust. Not too expensive if you apply the MINI club discount.

About $36 to 40 per rotor is common.

Cheap rotors might not be finished at all and rust will happen sooner or later.

Rust is OK but just not too pretty.

One option is to get the cheap ones and paint them before installing. Just the hub or hat area. Check out the stock rotors and paint them in a similar fashion.

 

You know, I never really gave rust a ton of though. Right now with my S-heavies it is hard to really see anything past the spokes so anything that is there I dont notice really.

I looked into Centric a little and the seem legit, and they even come with a coated hat, so it looks like I might be going with these:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...dot-34067.html

If these are good then it means I will have the cash for the Carbotech pads.

 

I picked up the raybestos rotors from rockauto.com for real cheap. So far I'm real happy with them (daily street use, 3 autox's on race tires, towing my trailer, and MOTD). They seem to be holding up just fine (no warping).

Jason

 

The AXC CT pads will work great with any rotor and if you need to save some cash buying rotor's local to save on the shipping, if you can't find free shipping, is a save bet.
Most rotors are just rotors, but pads are all over the place with CT's being at the top.
Plus we don't use iron in our pads, the only company not using iron, and that will allow you to get more miles out of rotors. Also note that CT pads do not transfer high rates of heat to the rotors which allows you to use a more basic rotor with peace of mind.

 

BTW...the rusty cheap rotors worked great for me. They were just ugly behind my rims. I can't see how they would function any worse than more expensive ones. I also made a mistake of getting cheap pads from the same place...the pads came off after about 2 weeks. I never thought a cheap auto parts store brand pad would work so bad at ambient temps and so well when heated up.

 

the pads came off after two weeks of use?
like fell off?

 

No...I took them off because I was worried about being able to stop in time. I could not activate my abs at all even standing on the pedal. My tires are falken ziex, so they are ok, but with a stock suspension, I should be able to lock up my tires fairly easy.