Tires, Wheels, & Brakes Discussion about wheels, tires, and brakes for the new MINI.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 07:14 AM
  #101  
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Douglas H
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X I just installed TCE 13.0 x .81 BBK on my 2009 MCS. My wheel is a 17 x 7 5Zigen FN01R-C and it easily cleared by 2.5 mm without a spacer.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:54 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Keano
Anyone tried an R95 spider spoke with the R56 JCW Brembo kit ?

Need to know the size of spacers needed.... please
Did some test fitting and a 7mm spacer is need with the R95s Im running 12mm but a 7mm would be enough...

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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #103  
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Looks like a good place where my Wilwood DP6 caliper on 320 JCW rotor would be a hit. Considering the lower profile of the DP6 that spacer requirement would be perhaps half this amount.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #104  
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I want to install these brakes: wilwood (ROTORS 12.82" x 1.25") with my wheels (konig feather 17x7 off-side 40).
Some of you have installed these brakes? I need spacers?
thanks!!!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 06:48 AM
  #105  
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I have a ? about the tsw ldm brake kit. Is there a reason that they do not want you to run spacers with there kit? I know that there is a 5mm spacer in the brakes hat, but is it just because there wheel studs are not long enough to add a spacer? Because I have tried 3 sets of 15 inch wheels and they do not clear with out a spacer. 15x6.5 40mm offset you need 12mm to clear, 15x7 enkie rpf1 35mm offset 10mm spacer, 15x8 949 6ul 36mm offset 8mm spacer. If it just the wheel studs that are keeping them from wanting you to run a wheel spacer then I will buy longer studs and run the 949s that I have.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 07:48 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by sleeper1995
I have a ? about the tsw ldm brake kit. Is there a reason that they do not want you to run spacers with there kit? I know that there is a 5mm spacer in the brakes hat, but is it just because there wheel studs are not long enough to add a spacer? Because I have tried 3 sets of 15 inch wheels and they do not clear with out a spacer. 15x6.5 40mm offset you need 12mm to clear, 15x7 enkie rpf1 35mm offset 10mm spacer, 15x8 949 6ul 36mm offset 8mm spacer. If it just the wheel studs that are keeping them from wanting you to run a wheel spacer then I will buy longer studs and run the 949s that I have.
I have the TSW LDM brakes and the Team Dynamics ProRace 2 fit
15" with a 35 offset -- They are close probably would get 30 offset if I did it again.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:00 AM
  #107  
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Thats just it I dont want to buy another set of wheels I have 3 sets of wheels. do you have any pics with the dynamics on your car
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:41 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by GIOX
I want to install these brakes: wilwood (ROTORS 12.82" x 1.25") with my wheels (konig feather 17x7 off-side 40).
Some of you have installed these brakes? I need spacers?
thanks!!!

Should be noted that this is not a Wilwood kit but rather a kit using Wilwood calipers on some sort of modified oe rotor from another car. Wilwood does not offer any sort of one piece rotor of that dimension nor do they produce any kits for the MINI with 1.25" wide rotors.

Will this require spacer? My knowledge of the product and fit dimensions would say you most certainly will. Running 1.25 width and the (shown) FSL caliper will net you a huge clearance problem. Speculating I'd say this will have greater wheel fit issues than anything I produce and even the full size Stoptech kits.

FWIW I'd also remind you that the massive weight of these rotors will be a serious performance robber on your car. My guess is that you're looking at roughly 20lb each or more for those castings. Might have good braking value on a 3500lb car but way overkill for a MINI. Only for the most hard core of track users could I begin to justify that rotor- and then mainly for their disposable value or $30 rotors from Autozone if the wear/crack (which on a MINI would be very unlikely!)

None of that makes this a 'bad deal' only that as a buyer you should evaluate all the data before jumping in.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #109  
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So if I get longer wheel studs and have some one here in town make me a centering wheel spacer I should be ok ?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #110  
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You can add the new Enkei PF01's to the list of wheels with lots of room for BBK's. My Brembo Gran Turismo kit just fit these in a 38 offset with enough room for wheel weight placement as well. They look just like the OZ Ultras and are nice and light as well.
 

Last edited by veggivet; Apr 13, 2010 at 03:00 AM. Reason: Corrected offset
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by sleeper1995
So if I get longer wheel studs and have some one here in town make me a centering wheel spacer I should be ok ?
Because you have the built in spacers now you could actually do a very nice job of fitting additional wheels spacer to it; have a shop turn the hat to a register size matched to the new spacer and fit them as one. Rather then flopping in the breeze on studs they could fit snugly together.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #112  
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Thats what I was thinkn, so I will be fine runing a spacer with longer wheel studs, I guess Ijust needed someone to tell that its all going to be ok. Because they say not to run spacers with there brake kit
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #113  
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Ok so I ordered my set of 949 15x8 wheels and my 15mm h&r spacers that will be machined down for me. I will post pics as soon as I have the wheels and tires on the car. I Used A 225/45/15 NTO1 for the test with 11mm of spacer and with 2 1/2 - camber the wheel and tire still fit under the fender just fine!!!! So yes I am going to use the 949 15x8 with the ldm brake kit with no problems. God I cant wait !!!
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 05:56 AM
  #114  
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anyone know if Buddy Club P1 16x7 +38 will clear the 12.2" Wilwood kit? planning to get these for trackday/fun run rims
 
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #115  
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FYI - I have a TSW BBK - BDM

Enkei RPF1's 17X7 ET43 fit with no spacers
SSR Type C's 16X7.5 ET 43 fit with no spacers
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 04:29 PM
  #116  
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TSW BDM BBK (11.75 X 1.25 Rotor)

15" Team Dynamics Pro Race 2 35mm offset no spacers

Not much room, but enough to run with no issues.

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Last edited by Alex@tirerack; Apr 28, 2010 at 05:58 AM. Reason: removed extra image tags
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #117  
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Please add this to the list
R97 Flame Spoke with H&R Trak 15mm spacers + Brembo GT BBK

Thanks!
 

Last edited by hito; May 17, 2010 at 08:41 PM. Reason: forgot to add pics!
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #118  
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Hello guys, which is the best solution for aftermarket 15x7 ET37 wheels?

TSW, Willwood or others?

Thank you in advance
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #119  
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The factory Wilwood 11.75 kit will fit a 15 as you mention as will the modifed TCE version using the 1" (.960ish) rotor. The TSW kit will also fit a 15 as mentioned.

Difference will be mainly in wheel fit (clearance), rotor width, caliper design and pad volume.

The Factory kit is 11.75 x .81 and weighs in at about 9.0lbs
The TCE wide rotor version at .960 comes in about 11lbs
The TSW rotor of 1.25 (speculating some) perhaps 11lbs also.

The TSW rotor will have a wider air gap but thinner rotor cheeks, whereas the TCE and Wilwood parts a skinny air gap and fatter walls.

The Outlaw calipers being in Wilwood land a Dynalite will have the lowest profile caliper body of the three in part because it runs .490" think pads whereas the DPr caliper has .600" thick pads and a wider body.

Take the narrow caliper/pad combo and fit that to a wider rotor however and you're probably back to about the same clearance requirement to the wheel. In fact I suspect the TSW kit will still take up a tad more room due to the rotor width. A need for spacers with this or even the TCE Wilwood version should be evaluated.

No arguments that the 1.25 rotor set up is bad. Been proven quite effective. But so too have the narrower rotor kits on many cars. Personally I think either of the two 'wider' kits is the better choice for a track car if you have room or can deal with the spacer/stud issues. Picking one of those two as the better choice of the two remains tough for me as I can make pros and cons of components used in both making it a bit of a 'push' on choice.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 07:30 AM
  #120  
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Thank you very much!

I have only a question...which kit has the most power brake?

My wheels are OZ Ultraleggera 15x7 ET37, there is a lot of room inside the wheels...i think that the bigness of caliper and the rotor's width maybe not a problem...i think...


Sorry if my English is not right...
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 07:43 AM
  #121  
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ahh..."brake power"....a wonderfully over used and mis understood term.

By brake power folks are somehow lead to believe that one brake system over the other will somehow stop a car a lot shorter. Reality is that one or the other that is capable of locking up the wheel is as equal to the other. A set of high torque pads in the stock caliper will do that as will any of the brake kits. Brake kits are not made specifically for more torque, they're made for improved efficiency and repeatability.

Seeing that they all have roughly the same rotor size their leverage aspect will be about the same.

Given pad compounds are available for all then there's no gains there.

Now if one has more pistons then it must stop faster! No..not really. Piston area can create more clamping, qty doesn't mean much. So if it has more area then it has more power! No...not really. If it has more area it creates more clamping for a given pressure. Bigger piston area just means you don't push as hard on the pedal. Smaller area means you do. In both cases you reach the same net value.

Let's look at torquing a lug nut to 95lbs: if I give you a 18" breaker bar and a 10" ratchet, which one creates that 95lbs of torque? Answer: they both do. The larger one simply does it more efficiently with less effort. But the nut is tight at 95lbs regardless. Brakes work pretty much the same way. Max torque is max tire adhesion. How you achieve it is based upon the three factors of diameter, clamping and friction.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #122  
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Thank you again Todd, now another question raise in me spontaneously.

The brake power in itself (mean as a short space stop) is make only of pads' friction and tyres' grip?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:17 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by MinItaly
Thank you again Todd, now another question raise in me spontaneously.

The brake power in itself (mean as a short space stop) is make only of pads' friction and tyres' grip?

The grip to the road surface is the ultimate marker of distance. Raising the coefficient of friction of the brake pad makes for more bite. (as does pressure and larger diameter etc). The limiting factor however is tire adhesion.

Think about snow. How effective are big brakes in snow? Nothing has changed really in the dry except that the tire has more grip. If you run a snow tire in the summer on dry roads you could "over brake" the car with too much pad grip- meaning it will lock up. (abs excluded here) Just like on the snow.

The more aggressive a tire you run the more brake pad and total rotor torque you can exert on the tire. This can be demonstrated just as easily on stock brakes as big brakes. You'd just have to push harder on the stock brakes to clamp the rotor harder. (leading to over heating etc.) Granted you may reach the point with slicks of not being able to lock up the tire efficiently in which case the bbk will not help you by generating more torque but with less effort.

Max grip will always be at the limit of tire adhesion. A skid is a skid no matter how you achieve it. That is maximum tire torque. Bigger brakes get to that level sooner and more efficiently is all. And recover better if overheating and fade are a problem.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:27 AM
  #124  
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Remember also that as tire grip goes up you can rapidly exceed the ability of the stock brake system to keep up. Meaning you over tax the stock brakes with both pressure and heat.

By moving to the BBK you increase the effectiveness of the braking system to match that of the tires.

The 11.75 kits are all very nice, however their place is more inside a 15" wheel than ultimate brake torque efficiency. It remains a relatively small rotor that in turn has a high duty cycle to keep up with the demands of track use. Moving to 12, 13 and larger rotor doesn't mean "more brake" it simply means that the same brake force is achieved with lower demands on the product. And again recovery is improved.

Both the TSW and TCE version of the 11.75 try to address this problem by way of wider rotors. That gives the brake system a greater heat sink and also more air flow through the center vane to aide in cooling. Seeing that the rotor is small still any improvements like this are a benefit.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #125  
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BBS RG-F 16x7 ET35 clears Wilwood 12.2 x 1" kit
 
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