I recently replaced all my brakes with factory pads and crossdrilled rotors all arround. (03 MCS) Anyhow, when I step on the brakes the rear brakes make a ticking sound. Sounds like its the drilled holes in the rotor hitting the pad. I took the pads off and filed/tapered the edges of the pads. No better. The fronts dont make any noise, why do the rears? Any suggestions?
Also, is... or where is the adjustment for the ebrake? I was thinking that mabey tightening that may help a little.

Thanks

Eddie

 

Over 90% of braking is done by the front brakes. The rear brakes do not need drilled AND slotted rotors. Drilled and slotted rotors on the rear are more for eye candy. You'd be better off getting just OEM rotors on the rear, or if you insist on "eye candy" just slotted rotors. Also, cross drilled rotors to begin with do come on high end sports cars, but they are huge and therefore can take the abuse. I've got drilled and slotted on my front and surprisingly they have not warped yet, but usually you'll run into problems with drilled and slotted. With your problem, it sounds like it's because you're running an OEM pad on a drilled and slotted rotor. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

I know the rears do not need to be drilled, but I bought all 4 rotors as a set. I know that they are not necessary, but I also didn't need rear pads. I recently bought the car and wanted a fresh start with the brakes.

Neither the front or rear are slotted, drilled only.

All 4 are stock pads with drilled rotors, but only the rear make noise??
I may just turn the stock rears and put them back on, but wanted to see if there was a "fix" for the noise.


Thanks

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it has been my impression that the stock MINI rotors can't be turned.

 

Did you get the set from MOSS? If so, watch the front rotors, as those MOSS ones like to warp. The rear rotors will be fine. In fact, to be honest, I'd leave the rear setup alone, unless the noise gets on your nerves. If not, Tire rack sells a nice ceramic pad that will go nicely with the rear rotors you have. I think the noise is just something you'll have to deal with, but sounds harmless.

 

Someone correct ME if I'm wrong, but I believe the stock rotors are made by Brembo and can be turned.

 

I thought I would get used to it, but it's bugging me.

Dunno if the stockers can be turned or not?

 

As far as the noise, no idea.

Stock rotors can be turned, as told me to me by my tire/brake/wheel guy. Brembo, I don't know. Just be aware it takes a ton of heat to warp a rotor. Unlikely provided you don't see a track.

Also, I have to express my concern over "drilled" rotors. Are they truly drilled, or were they cast that way? If the former, I would be tempted to discard them near immediately, if only for my personal fear of cracking leading to rotor failure.

Whole purpose of drilled rotors (originally) was to deal with outgassing, water buildup, or total heat (or all three). Nowadays, pads are very unlikely to outgas, water buildup is still a slight issue (remedied with slotted rotors), and heat...well, not really at all.

Also, stay away from the high end ceramic stuff; unless you plan on getting carbon-ceramic rotors as well, you'd just be making your pads able to take a lot of heat, and neglecting the rest of the assembly (brake fluid, etc). Additionally, there will be a warm-up time with ceramic pads before they reach full effectiveness; not something you may want with most city-driving. Stock pads for many people are more than enough to lock the rotors/wheels up. Most go aftermarket for dust reduction and/or some form of track use.

This thread should be moved to a more appropriate sub-forum as well, I believe.

Yeah, this thread should definitely get a better answer from someone who knows more about this in the correct forum.

- Matt

 

It doesn't matter if the rotors were cast or actually drilled, They both can still crack. Especially with the size of the MINI rotors. If you are not doing track runs or driving very aggressively then stock pads are fine. But if you don't feel like cleaning your wheels every 2 days , then a set of ceramic pads are for you. They don't have to cost a fortune. The Akebonos from Tire Rack are something like $78 a pair. And yes, I notice a difference in the stopping with my ceramics, plus my wheels are soooo much cleaner. Plus,I haven't had any heat problems with them, and this is also with Florida's 90 degree heat.

 

I put those (Akebonos from Tire Rack) on my wifes Altima (much heavier car) and had them on another car, I like them allot.

Drilled rotors are like cheese graters on the pads, are the holes
chamfered on both sides?

Why do you want to turn your old rotors?

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesnt a thread about brakes belong in the forum surrounding brakes, not drivetrains?

TJM

 

This thread is moved to Tires, Wheels and brakes from MINI first generation drivetrain.

A ticking noise from the rear can have to do with something that is rotating around and causing the noise. Does it vary and speed up in frequency with wheel speed? If so then there could be something stuck or binding to the rotor (inner or outer surface) or to the pad inner or outer. It might not look like much but it can rub or bind.

Start with a basic thorough cleaning of the surfaces in the rear. Then try to isolate the noise if it is coming from the right or left sides or maybe it is not from either and the noise is from something else- a wheel hitting against a suspension part or brake hose.

Rotors for street use can be basic stock including brembo rotors (come plated or finished or unfinished-rust easily). Drilled or slotted help to reduce some boundary gases but will wear your pads faster depending on which pads you have.

For street use slotted or drilled rotors will work but are not really needed. Cracks do occur especially if there is any heavy heat build up such as long downhills or during track use. Fronts are much more likely to overheat and can crack along the drill holes- first with very small cracks. Rear rotors aren't likely to be used as hard so cracks might take awhile before showing.

If you do track your car or do lapping sessions monthly I would guess that you may see cracks in drilled rotors in less than one year (I know because I've done it). For track use basic OEM rotors. Slotted rotors won't crack from the slots but will crack if you over heat them. You can reduce the chance to ruin rotors by using cryo treated frozen rotors but they cost more. They are advertised to be more durable up to three times tougher than untreated rotors.

Turning rotors assumes that there is enough left on the rotors and that it isn't too far worn since turning removes some metal/mass and you don't want the rotor to get too thin. More mass handles heat better.

One solution is to change the rear rotors back to stock OEM pads and rotors in the rear but first determine if it is indeed coming from the rotors or pads.

 

I have the same problem. Just replaced pads and rotors with slotted and drilled rotors, jacked my car up last week and tried to figure out problem, wheel seems to be sticking a little, going to check my caliper guide bolts, I know I didn't take the time to clean them with a wire brush and grease them, let me know if it helps you if still having problem, I will try to do the same. Good luck to all.

 

Check to make sure you have the rear pad clip on correctly. This is a known issue with these brakes.

 

You should re-grease (or at least check) your guide pins when you replace any brake components. Also, unless you're tracking your car cross drilled and or slotted rotors aren't the best for daily driving and they take longer distance to stop than OE rotors due to less surface area. They look cool yes, but unless you're on a track, you're hurting performance.

 

psssssst

revival from 2007 ......