cor and cliff,
the input you guys have posted is very helpfull. we all know you're both vendors.....and would appreciate if you continue to "play nice." cor, you get all the props in the world for the instal info, pics etc. . but as a soon to be buyer, i appreciate as many inputs as i can get. just my 2cent.

 

My adjusters on the way Now I can get the rear interior back into the car (after I get the master cylinder repaired )

 

No No ... we are all here to help and answer all questions.

Just wanted folks to know that we are both here to help and give insight ..
Also now in a "official" capacity
I am always up to learn more as well.

I am making a "marking tool" that will draw the arc of the rear suspension top on the inside frame rail. It will be able to draw a line from no weight to full weight. this will then give a better idea if actuall hole placement and a bit less guess.

Really hard not to be impressed with the adjustability.

Today we ran a Auto x and it was REALLY gravely. so lots of understeer.
It is easy to want to keep going stiffer and, that isnt always the answer. I ended up backing off the fronts to help the tires bite. ... final run was 14 F and 21 rear with very controlled cornering.

 

I was wondering looking at a cabrio today ... what the weight distribution difference is between a coupe and cabrio. Front to rear

That may make a difference in spring choices and set up.

 

Hi ..

I wanted to post this photo of the BC Sports BR series coilovers as you should recieve now.
I just had a fellow come see me about pre load / set up info and to take a look at my car.
He did buy some BC coilovers from the internet ... they are the old style without the "cup design" on the ride height nut and, had 8k "straight springs" on the front.

Note: these have a "cup" design lock on the ride height and a shaped front spring to stop binding.

 

more thoughts:

1. anyone else with a cabrio done this? am i the first? do i get any breaks for being the cabrio beta tester?

2. going from stock suspension, i'm hearing i should get rear control arms and adjustable end links (front and rear) as i anticipate dropping her between a half to 1 and a half inches.

 

Hi Tim,
Although I don't have the BC, I do have the Megans (BC's ugly brother ). I do highly recommend the lower rear control arms. Specially if you track your car, which I think you do right? This will give you max camber adjustability. As for the endlinks, a must!! You want to eliminate as much pre-load on the bar when the car gets lowered. Just do your homework on the end-links...

Being that our cars are a bit heavier, I found the 6kg out back was a bit soft for the weight. Specially when you have the top down and all the weight is on the back. So, I ended up with 6.75kg.

Looking at the pic that Brian posted of the BCs, I must say that is a good looking set up. Specially now that they're using the barrel shape spring up front. It also incorporates the rear top hat (Megans don't) and the extenders.

Brian, few questions for you.
Are you going to the Woodland All British car show on May 18? They moved it from Dixon to Woodland this year. If you are, could you bring a set of the BC so I could check them out? (you really don't have to, just asking ).

From your expertise, what is the damper length, circumference and diameter of the front shock body. And, does BC offer a shorter shock? We're having a discussion about this on the Megan thread and was wondering how they compare.

Thanks,
Ev

 

hey ev,
thanks for the info. i autocross about twice a year, same with track.....wish my schedule would allow more. the folks at bc are recommending the 8k/6k set up for the cabrio, so i'm gonna give it a try. they will replace the 6k's for free if i don't like them. i took the plunge on the bc coilovers, new helix control arms, and tsw endlinks today. i'll be one step closer to having as cool a ride as yours!

 

All good choices, IMO.
Did you get the front links as well?

 

yup, front and rear....i'm downright adjustable all over....just like that fancy custom windscreen thingy....which i use all the time and love. my next step is gettin' together with my install buddy and finding the time to do it. pics and reviews forthcoming.

 

edit: nevermind, found the info I was looking for.

 

okay, i've got the coilovers and rear control arms in the garage. waiting for the endlinks, and plan on instal next weekend. i'm going to shoot for 1" drop front and back. front camber -2, rear -1.2, front toe 1/16th out, rear 1/16th in. any thoughts/concerns? my last pre-instal question....think i'll need spacers with the stock 17x7 wheels and 215/45-15 direzza star specs??

my next post should be reviews from the bc coilover cabrio beta tester

 

What is the advantage to having the "barrel" front springs to the "straight" ones?

And do any of the BC's come with the "straight" ones?

And is there a difference between the BC racing and sport ones?

 

cor blmy you got those bc coils in for the r56s yet? the r53 ones look nice .

 

>>> The suspension travel is so short on the front of a MINI that the Barrel / bee-hive stop the coils of the spring touching then "binding" as the coils would then fit inside or next to eachother not on top of eachother.
The earlier version of the BR series did have straight springs.

>>>No BC BR series are actually named "BC BR Series Sport, high performance suspension" They have used more than one name in their marketing

>>>I am bugging them as well... I will keep you updated.

 

Thanks

 

I'm starting to think that the BC are worth the extra 100 or 200 bucks...seems like less issues than the Megans, but what about ride quality I mean COR BLMY seems to be the only one who reviewed and he tracks his car and also is not a daily driver so a stiff suspension is highly desired...what about a daily driver. I'm not expecting stock (too soft in my opinion) but some squish might be a little easier on some people.

 

I use mine as a daily driver AND track my car 3 - 4 times a year. Drive is not that bad at all. Very liveable.

 

hey guys,
install is set for tomorrow!!! btw i wound up getting 5mm spacers.

 

You won't have any issues reguarding street-ability with these set to soft. Mine are on "2" right now and they feel great. I just crank them up for autox or track days....

 

I see you edited out a lot of your responce about pre setting camber...... did you find that you could do it without the bolt heads hitting the tower opening?

 

Quick update.. I took off the brackets in the rear that hold the brake / sensor lines, to get that extra 1/4" for the springs. Springs have max travel all around now, and car is as low as can go. It looks good, the rear is imperceptibly lower now. I can't tell the dif via the wheel well, but there isn't the crazy rake I had going on before. More level. Might shoot a few pics later on.

Still enjoying the BCs.

 

EDIT: (didn't COR BLMY mention in the install to take off the brackets for the brake/sensor lines?? So what you're saying is you were able to get the shock to go further down in the tube?) My mistake I didn't read the word "REAR" in your comment - Disregard those questions but I am curious about the "rake" Also what do you mean by "rake" that you had going on?
Thanks,
Steve

 

in my enthusiasm to do the install i missed cor saying that the camber could be pre set before install....many posts back. my install didn't happen due to last minute family/holiday plans but it looks like this friday might just happen.

how does 2 from full soft compare to the stock ride? i was going to set at 10 front and back since my track days keep getting cancelled due to weather and or work oh well only about 36 hours to install....but who's counting

cor/cliff, if i'm mistaken about setting the camber before install, please let me know! i really don't think i'll change it much from the -2.25 spot and wanted to avoid cutting the strut towers.

 

The camber can be set prior to install ....
The only problem is that if both are set at the same markings there is still what I call "Detroit slop" more aptly renamed "Britt slop" ...
Whe you have an alignment you may find the camber is actually different ..Lefr to Right.
If serious enough you would need to drop the unit and adjust.

I understand that a "ball allen" or a change of bolts will allow adjustment WITHOUT cutting the towers... It does still look difficult and , I question how tight a ball allen at a big angle, or a crows foot can get