I'll be getting some spacers and studs down the road, as my 16x7.5 Koseis with... 42 offset? are very, VERY close to rubbing on the coilovers up front. The tires (225/45) are just a hair's width from touching the locking rings of the BCs.

I was planning on getting spacers anyways with the 15x8 wheels.. for the rears.

(I'm not sure on the offset, can't remember. Either 35 or 42? Whatever makes sense for a 7.5" width wheel)

 

Hello all I have seen all your kind words, But now on to the good stuff. I just got these in Vegas last week the install is EASY Very easy. I have had them in now for 2 days so far & I like them. They are not as harsh ride as you mite think. As for driving very nice corners great on the street I have them set to 12 clicks from soft out of 30. I will be going out to the track next weekend & that will be the real test. So far I am very happy I will reply after the track on April 12 2008.

 

Well I just ordered my set. I hope they get here soon!

 

kartman...

Glad the install went well and, you weren't wasting any time to get them in.

The feedback is great ...I am happy to help you with any setup info/ questions.

AMVIV $ extended

 

Has anyone got pics of the BC's at their lowest setting? I've got my Konis sitting in my garage but the yearning for the BCs just won't go away - if I can see how low the Bcs will go the Konis may be going back...........

 

^ Check out Ryephile's ride

 

Thanks Chris.

Mmmmmmm, now I'm in a Countdown Conundrum..............

 

No problem, His ride is sick Can't even fit a 2" can under the front air damn

 

Well I got mine in yesterday and they look awesome. I was surprised to find out that I got 2 sets of tools! But, I was annoyed when I got 0 sets of adjusters Minspeed is taking care of it for me. BC packed it wrong.

I must say I've read this thread loads of times and I still don't understand the ride height adjustment. I guess if I play with it I'll figure it out. by just reading it I can't visualize how it works. I want to have a least a inch drop, optimal an inch and a half if someone wants to give me a thread count so I get close on the first try.

One more thing; will I require a spacer for stock 5 stars wheels (205/50/16, I don't know the offset)? I'm buying new wheels next month and probably a stud kit, but want to be sure I can drive it till then.

 

How close are you now to the stock strut? Remember that the BC's don't have that flat side to the strut assembly.... so you will at the very least be closer...

 

I have Koni's on the car and I have no idea how close they are. They weren't rubbing by anymeans. Car is on block right now because the rear spring snapped (thus the upgrade) and I don't have the wheels on.

I sitting here trying to figure out the ride height adjustment and its becoming more clear, but still I have a moment

 

Ok, I played around with these for a bit watching the champions league game last night. Please tell me if my throught process on how the height adjustment works and how to do it is correct:

-I have 3 nuts (...lol): perch, perch locking, and lower locking
-If I loosen the lower locking, I can move the lower body and this is what will control the ride height
-If I loosen the perch locking and then the perch I will get play in the spring
-I want to tighten the perch until the spring is set. Doing this on my table, I can assume that when the inner body starts to turn that the perch nut is tight enough and the spring is set.
-Now I lock it in place with the perch locking nut.
-Then I adjust the lower body up or down depending on what ride height I want and then lock it into place

Will I still have correct suspension travel here? I'm not messing anything up, right? Once on the car I loosen the lower locking and then turn the perch nuts to go up or down. Front what I can tell if I tighten the perch locking this will turn the inner body and increase the ride height, if I try to loosen the perch nut this should turn the inner body and decrease the ride height. Correct?

I want to drop the car more than an inch. Can anyone give me a starting point for the distance between the lower locking and perch locking so that when I get them on I don't have to jerk around with it too much?

 

You are on the right path.
The bottom spring perch needs two of the three locking rings.
Most of the time, you would set the spring to have just enough pre-load to not let it move under full droop. ie, off the car. This is going on a 6" spring. More than likely the shock travel is going to be about the same as the total spring stroke. Not exactly sure on the BC's but it should be close.

Ride height is controlled by moving the shock body into the sleeve - as you have typed.
If you want to be pretty low but easily drivable, then leave about an inch or so between the lower locking ring and the bottom spring perch locking ring.
Again, this is estimated going on the fact that I have not seen a set of BC's in person and that they are similar to the Megan's.

As far as travel - based on calculations - the 8kg spring is going to put you damn close to the middle of the travel. Again, based on the average 850lbs weight found on the MCS. You should have half a stroke to full compression and half to full droop. Give or take.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, that helps alot. I was making sure I wasn't killing the compression/droop by doing it wrong.

It appears that all 4 of the coilovers have already been adjust with the spring set, but I'm going to loosen all of them and then tighten myself so that I know for sure it's good before I put them on the car.

 

always a good idea ... to check

 

cor blmy, how far did you lower your mini? What was your distance between the lower and perch locknut?

I'm feeling confident now about adjusting the ride height and may try tonight I should wait till the weekend though when it might be sunny and not raining

 

My car sits lower and "more level" than stock

As many springs do ... lower the front and the rear a bit more

I am an 1 & 1/4 lower on the front (almost MAX)... only 3 or 4 more threads to go till the spring perch lock nut hits the ride height nut

and an inch 1/2 even a bit more on the rear.
the spring perch lock nut is touching the clamp on the body that holds the brake line and wires.

This is with the spring preload set this way ...the perch nut just touching the spring and then turning it 1 more rev up.

So minimum preload.

I run 225/40 17 Hoosier A6 (know to be on the big side) on Enkei race wheels with a 45 ET on the front I use a 15 mm spacer and a 5 mm on the rear.
This drop and these tires / wheels WILL touch.!!!
Big neg camber up front abd rear help ... they still will touch

The rear inner fender arch is trimmed about 1/2 inch, the fender inner is trimmed 2 inches, and the sheet metal lip and trim studs are cit chort or pounded in a bit.

The front wheel arch is also trimmed.

It is a REALLY close fit

The coilovers COULD go lower by preloading the springas some and the rear ...if you use a longer bolt on the brake line bracket you can attach it to bhr body of the coilover not the threaded area to then be able to lower ride height even more.

eventuall though even if moving the bracket there is a limit of how far IN you can screw it in (down)

Here are some photos taken 6 min ago
street rims are ASA 42 et with 215/45s


these units are NOT intended to be the ones that will "SLAM YO RIDE"

there are others that go lower.

 

sorry ...here are the photos

Front


Rear


This is darn near MAX drop.

I have 8K front and REAR !!!
The stock springs are 8K front and 6K rear ... this will allow a bit more drop .

 

edit: ^^^I ordered 8k front and 6k rear (i'm not sure how to confirm that) but does that mean I can only drop it more in the rear or will the front go lower as well?

Excellent, Thanks very much for the pictures and tips. You're right those are almost maxed out! I'll probably give a little leeway and set them slightly higher and then lower as I see fit. My hsports were low enough in the rear, but with their camber plates it was REALLY much higher in the front. I just want it level with as little wheel gap as possible.

I'll set the preload as you described (touch the spring with the perch nut and then 1 more turn) for them tonight and then get started putting them in on Friday.

I'll report back if my tires are rubbin'

 

BC springs are marked.

Your rears should have this # on them
62.180.006
Diameter. length. spring rate

Fronts
160L-8KG
Spring length and TYPE- spring rate

 

So the front springs are shorter than the back...so that is how we only need lower rates in the rear...

 

The springs are different lengths ...
YES the fronts are shorter than the rear.

But read the part # AND THE DISCRIPTION

There are 2 different TYPES of springs.

The rear is a "straight spring"
the fronts are a 'bulb spring"
IF these were the same rate and different styles the front could compress as much (maybe MORE) as the coils would not bind

 

 

Thanks Brian...so do the fronts come with either the bulb, or linear?

 

I got linear on my front set