I'm planning on installing a set of IE fixed camber plates on my 06 MCS so as to improve the handling and help prevent mushrooming. I've done a bunch of research on this site and it looks like after installing the plates my front camber should be about -1.55 degree (1.25 from the plates and .30 from the factory). How much should the rear camber be? On a 06 the rear is supposed to have a small amount of adjustment. I don't plan on adding adjustable control arms. It is my understanding that the camber is set a about -1.45 from the factory. I'm looking for spirited driving, I don't plan on autoX or tracking the car. I want to improve the handling but don't want a twitchy car.
TIA

 

If I remember, stock is 1.32 deg neg +/- .30 degrees.

If you want more stability, 1.50 degree neg. If you want more rotation, 1.25 deg neg.

Keep rear toe to about 1/8" toe in. Front can be zero, a little out or a little in.

 

why 1/8" toe in?
what is the factory setting on rear toe?

the guy just said he didn't want a twitchy car, won't rear toe in, do just that?

 

Where can I buy these camber plates
what do you think is the best set (springs shocks and so on)up for 3 tracks days a year and spirted driving every time I leave the driveway also I will doing autox this year for the first time My taxes should be in the bank in about 11 days and my wife gave me the green light to make the famly car handle better Thanks

 

No. Toe out will cause a twitchy oversteering condition. Also, toe in slightly distorts a tire and this distortion actually helps to generate slip angles at the rear a little sooner. This will help any rear end transition to oversteer to occur progressively. It also stabilizes the back end of the car ina straight line...and I personally believe a stable back end is more important than a stable front end. It is possible to achieve quicker turn-in up front with toe out, but some of the instabilty of toe out up front is reduced by toe in at the rear. 1/8" works fine.

Toe in - the forces acting on a set of wheels/tires converge canceling each other out = stability

Toe out - the forces noted above diverge leaving each wheel/tire to grab at every undulation in the road. So the car darts right and left requiring lots of driver involvement.

 

ducho
I just got some of these plates from TSW. They are very helpful and will match the price of Ireland Eng.. (you could by direct from Ireland if you wanted and they have 10% off if you read MC2). I have JCW struts and springs and really like them. They give a very acceptable ride on the street also. Other options are FSD struts with TSW springs. The JCW will only slightly lower you car approx 10 mm. The TSW springs I believe will lower 5/8 to 3/4.
Steve

 

Thanks

 

Meb,
"
If I remember, stock is 1.32 deg neg +/- .30 degrees.

If you want more stability, 1.50 degree neg. If you want more rotation, 1.25 deg neg.

Keep rear toe to about 1/8" toe in. Front can be zero, a little out or a little in."
Where did this info come from? Sounds like a lot.
Terry

 

Which part sounds like a lot? And remember, what works on an autoX circuit will not on a road course. I don't autoX anymore...though I should.

 

So what works on a road course???

 

There is no perfect answer.

 

The short answer? What works for you...

In all seriousness, there are a LOT of variables to play with - dampers, springs, camber, toe, etc.

 

ducho99,

I wasn't trying to be a wise guy, I just didn't have time. But txwerks gave you the correct answer. Everything you do depends upon the thing you just did, leaving you plenty of room to undo what you just did.

 

meb,
I just had a front and rear alignment today and you are correct. For an 06 the "nominal" rear camber is -1.75. The front is -.5.
Terry

 

I don't need perfect I need an ideai all i have is a sway set on the stiffest setting sometimes when i jam on the brakes the car moves a little side to side Txworks I was just on your site at work I had a e30 I would take it sideways every chance I could

 

That sounds like your bushings. Are they stock and how many miles?

 

It's part of Mini life, get accustomed to keeping track of the back end during threshold braking...unless you posses a brake proportioner. Personally I think the Mini's rear brake bias is too high.

 

Mini controls the bias with a system in abs. It seems to work best with panic stops, not smooth, racing style.

 

I think you can somewhat address that with the right spring rates and pad selection... But, I agree, even now I still find myself adjusting the attitude of the rear end via various inputs under hard braking at the track (and autocross).

 

if you want to reduce some rear braking force, remove some pad material on the rear pads so that the surface area of the pad contacting the rotor is reduced. course you might not want to do that to your street pads

i'm guessing you turn the abs off on the track