Suspension Springs
Springs
I am looking to lower my car this spring. I have a lead on a set of H&R coils but am worried about the ride with factory shocks. I know about anything I go with is going to ride stiffer than stock, but I do not want to beat the crap out of myself and be looking to get new springs again shortly after getting the H&R's in.
If I am looking for drop, would I be better off getting some M7's? Just curious.
If I am looking for drop, would I be better off getting some M7's? Just curious.
ive seen m7's springs sag on several cars. not sure if they've fixed this.
h&r's on stock schocks were actually a softer ride for me in comparison to the SS+
the Hsports i know ride comfy too w/ stock shocks...
how many miles do you have on the shocks?
i know that putting lowering springs on stockers adds to wear/tear so keep in mind you may need to replace those as well. but im sure you can find a used set for pretty cheap...
and as Grassroots said, a progressive spring is going to be your best bet.
h&r's on stock schocks were actually a softer ride for me in comparison to the SS+
the Hsports i know ride comfy too w/ stock shocks...
how many miles do you have on the shocks?
i know that putting lowering springs on stockers adds to wear/tear so keep in mind you may need to replace those as well. but im sure you can find a used set for pretty cheap...
and as Grassroots said, a progressive spring is going to be your best bet.
I assume you're doing this for looks only? If so, the H-Sport are okay. The front springs are actually softer than sock (at least for the '02 sport suspension). I have switched to HR in the front to get a higher spring rate. A little choppy on the street, though.
Ninja edit: Your shocks are going to be toast very soon. Consider Koni yellows.
Ninja edit: Your shocks are going to be toast very soon. Consider Koni yellows.
Primarily looks. I am putting a wheel on that currently has a tired with a smaller profile. Its going to look like a 4x4. The car can already out handle me, so I do not think it really needs improving, yet. However, I do not want to beat the crap out of myself or put myself in a dangerous situation on the track.
Trending Topics
scurves- the tires will probably determine more if you're going to put
yourself in a dangerous situation.

if you run progressive rate springs you will most-likely going to want
a rear swaybar. the car does not 'plant' itself well (posture wise)with
the initial low spring rates...tends to have a loose, roll feeling. since
you already have 60k on your dampers, it's imho they are pretty much
toast.
i recommend you get dampers installed with your springs. then you
might not need the rear swaybar as the damper will slow down the
initial bound. popular ones from reading are koni yellows and FSD's.
yourself in a dangerous situation.

if you run progressive rate springs you will most-likely going to want
a rear swaybar. the car does not 'plant' itself well (posture wise)with
the initial low spring rates...tends to have a loose, roll feeling. since
you already have 60k on your dampers, it's imho they are pretty much
toast.
i recommend you get dampers installed with your springs. then you
might not need the rear swaybar as the damper will slow down the
initial bound. popular ones from reading are koni yellows and FSD's.
Thanks ken. I was afraid I was going to need new dampeners anyway, which is part of the reason I thought I would lower. Why should I get progressive rates?
I have a rear bar sitting in my garage next to the MINI. It will be going on as soon as things warm up around here
The tires are Kumho Ecsta SPT tires (205/50/15).
I have a rear bar sitting in my garage next to the MINI. It will be going on as soon as things warm up around here
The tires are Kumho Ecsta SPT tires (205/50/15).
It's my take that progressive springs are made that way for a softer street ride while providing that oh so cool slammed look that many like.
If you put your car on the track the handling may seem a bit wonkie. Lean over & wait until the springs compress enough to take a set. Not what I'd want on my car.
Your mileage may vary.
I'm not sure your dampers are toast at 60K, but I do agree with kenchan. If you are going to the trouble to install springs put a set of dampers on too.
And for Gods sake, get that swaybar on!
If you put your car on the track the handling may seem a bit wonkie. Lean over & wait until the springs compress enough to take a set. Not what I'd want on my car.
Your mileage may vary.
I'm not sure your dampers are toast at 60K, but I do agree with kenchan. If you are going to the trouble to install springs put a set of dampers on too.
And for Gods sake, get that swaybar on!
Springs
How many miles did you have when you changed out your springs and shocks?
Did you get any clicking noises from the constant velocity joints after lowering?
The TSW linear springs still provide full shock travel from what I've read.
Can you comment more on ride, handling or anything else that comes to mind about your setup?
I have not had a chance to install my parts as yet, but plan on doing a full review as soon as I do. I have been doing a lot of "testing" of my stock system lately at some very nice locations so I can have a good idea of the changes. Should be sometime in the next month or so.
I used to think that progressive springs were the way to go BUT am now reconsidering that and leaning toward the linear springs.
How many miles did you have when you changed out your springs and shocks?
Did you get any clicking noises from the constant velocity joints after lowering?
The TSW linear springs still provide full shock travel from what I've read.
How many miles did you have when you changed out your springs and shocks?
Did you get any clicking noises from the constant velocity joints after lowering?
The TSW linear springs still provide full shock travel from what I've read.
Back in 2003, I put H-sport progressive springs and a 22mm rear bar on my MCS, and for a short time I was happy with that. As I started taking the MINI to track events, though, I quickly found the suspension to be wanting in grip. Since then I have moved way beyond the factory suspension bits, but my opinion still is that the progressive springs are better only if looks outweigh performance.
Dr Mike hit the nail on the head...
but I don't know if I'd say "looks over performance" but the transition from soft to hard was tough for me on the track as well. So I went linear. But if you're just doing street driving, the progressive ride may be everything you're looking for, and you may never notice the transition effect in turns.
Most say "need" progressives because they're looking to improve ride quality for street driving (projecting their own biases), and progressives are a very nice way to do that.
Matt
Most say "need" progressives because they're looking to improve ride quality for street driving (projecting their own biases), and progressives are a very nice way to do that.
Matt
Have you considered a Koni Sport Suspension kit
4 Koni yellow adjustable shocks and 4 koni springs,
this kit will give you a good stance,
the koni springs lower the car just the right amount,
the shocks can be set softer then stock, wich is better for the street,
and with a few clicks of adjustment, your car will become a track champion.
And for the money, these retail around $750 to $799, nobody can beat that deal.
Victor
4 Koni yellow adjustable shocks and 4 koni springs,
this kit will give you a good stance,
the koni springs lower the car just the right amount,
the shocks can be set softer then stock, wich is better for the street,
and with a few clicks of adjustment, your car will become a track champion.
And for the money, these retail around $750 to $799, nobody can beat that deal.
Victor
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Steffen.Johnson
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
42
Jan 25, 2023 02:47 PM



