Yes, when compressed under engine weight the lowest coil is seated fully on the bottom perch.

I can't wait to get up tomorrow and go drive!!!!! It was just too rainy junky cool today to go out and truly test it out.

R

 

How's the weather up there in the Great Northwest???

Did you take Zeek for a romp yet?

 

>>hi sol.
>>hey could you drop the info for your shop, i might give you some business!
>>i've been looking for a good shop in the chicagoland area to do work on my mini!
>>thanks in advance!

Perfect Power Inc.
844 Liberty Drive
Libertyville, Illinois 60048

e-mail: perpow1@attglobal.net

telephone: 847-367-8837

sorry it took so long to respond!

 

>>How's the weather up there in the Great Northwest???
>>
>>Did you take Zeek for a romp yet?

Well it was cold and nasty again today. Low 40's and raining fairly heavily. Decided to just bite the bullet and go out.

WOW!!!

All in all I am VERY happy with the result, visually and from in the driver's seat. Once things clear up a bit and we have some dry roads, I'll really stomp on it and give you an update.



R

 

It sure looks good!

What do those measurements mean as far as total drop? Did you measure the stock distance before the spring change?

I told you that front setting was fun! I can't wait to hear what it's like on dry roads (if you guys get those up there ).

Something else I've noticed is that the DSC doesn't interrupt as much as it used to - a sure sign of better traction.

Thanks for the update, R.

 

I have noticed the same thing. I totally chalk that up to the rear sway though. With just the springs DSC still intruded about the same as stock.

 

Have had the H&R springs on for quite some time now on our MCS. First thing to note is that the 18" wheels we're running (NOT my idea, they are sponsor's wheels) rubbed only a bit with the stock MCS springs... the rubbing was incessant when the ride height was dropped with the H&Rs. Even after two shops (F1 Technologies and Monster Mini) did modifications/trimming on the fenders... they still rub. Bummer.

On the plus side, my wife & I have had H&R springs on other cars and loved 'em and these are no different. My "testing ground" is Angeles Crest Highway, right above us:

http://www.mulhollandraceway.org/roads/crest.html

Having driven the 'Crest for 25 years now, I know it fairly well and while the H&Rs didn't make a "huge" improvement IMHO (the MCS already was handling pretty well with its strut tower brace, lighter forged 18s and the 225/35/18 Bridgestone Pole Positions)... it definitely did make a noticeable improvement in the handling and without a real dimunition in the ride quality. Very cool. Score another one for H&R.

As an aside, on my first "test" drive up on the 'Crest after the installation of the H&R springs I had a personal first. Two guys is leathers and modded sport bikes pulled over and waved me by. Maybe soon I'll be leaning out the door of our MINI and dragging my knee as the MINI carves up the 'Crest

 

Randy: what's the technique you use for getting your rig on jackstands, since the obvious side jacking point is right where the stand needs to go? have you found a good front and rear point to lift one end at at time?

 

are there any spirngs that drop half way between the stock and the H&R springs?

 

I'm getting some FK springs and they should be here by next week. I've read the entire thread and there are just a couple questions that have not been answered that I'd like to see answered. So any help would be greatly aprreciated.


>>Have had the H&R springs on for quite some time now on our MCS. First thing to note is that the 18" wheels we're running (NOT my idea, they are sponsor's wheels) rubbed only a bit with the stock MCS springs... the rubbing was incessant when the ride height was dropped with the H&Rs. Even after two shops (F1 Technologies and Monster Mini) did modifications/trimming on the fenders... they still rub. Bummer.

What wheels, offset and size tires were you running when you had this problem? Have you had it corrected yet? And if so, how?


>>Randy: what's the technique you use for getting your rig on jackstands, since the obvious side jacking point is right where the stand needs to go? have you found a good front and rear point to lift one end at at time?

Also, I'd like to know the answer to this question.


>>are there any spirngs that drop half way between the stock and the H&R springs?

From what I've heard, the H&Rs lower the car the least out of all the rest.

 

Rear strut hint.
When assembling the top hat back on to the shock, there is a small washer that has a bevel on one side that should go down. It's easy to miss, (I did on one side) and can cause the upper hold down nut to come loose. If it does come loose you will hear a clunking noise coming for the rear shock assembly. I am going to have to remove mine and fix it this weekend. Hope this helps someone else.
Dan

 

I saw the same thing in Miata forums.

Why can't anyone make a tuned suspension that keeps the standard ride height?
I would think you could make the suspension as stiff as you wanted, while keep the extra travel that the original suspension provides.

I'm going with a 17" wheel and lowering the car does not sit well with me. The last thing I want is to hear my tires scraping the wheel well or worse, the fender lip itself while turning sharply.

has anyone done this kit with 17" wheels and had absolutley no problems with rubbing? It doesn't look possible from the pictures.

 

Okay, I am going to do a spring install (not H&R, but nevertheless) Friday night. I've seen some references to needing an alignment after doing this install, but I can't figure out why (camber isn't adjustable, and springs shouldn't affect toe or caster).

So, can anyone tell me, is it or is it not necessary to have an alignment done after installing aftermarket springs?

Travis

 

if the springs lower the car, the negative camber will increase. It isn't very adjustable either, without camber plates for the front and adjustable control arms for the rear. Most just live with it. You get better tire adhesion cornering at the slight expense of more tire wear in straight line driving.

 

Right. I'm not at all concerned about more negative camber (my tires wear from the outsides in).

I was just checking to make sure there wasn't going to be a caster problem.

 

Enjoy the driver's side front strut... UGH, what an *expletive*!

 

Just put the Alta springs in with a MCS rear sway bar. Pretty easy installation with this tip: For the driver's side front strut, I could not get the strut out with two different spring compressors. Finally ended up removing the two bolts that hold the lower control arm to the hub carrier. I think the two bolts had 13mm hex heads. Once you separate the hub carrier from the control arm, you can freely move the hub carrier all around and ultimately lower it so the strut will clear and come out.

This tip would have saved me a few hours of work.

Other comments: No spring compressors needed for the job if you have a buddy that weighs over 180 pounds? There's not much preload on the springs. Removing the top hat was easy with an impact gun. The spring doesn't go flying off or anything. To get them back together, a chubby buddy is all it takes to weight it down while you get the nut started.

Just drove it around the block and it already felt like its more balanced. Will know more once I get a chance to drive it.

Hope the tips help someone.