Quick clarifier about the front strut removal. In your directions you say to remove the bottom bolt, then press down on the hub and remove the strut....then to remove the top 3 bolts. Don't you need to remove those top three before it can come out? And the crazy deal with the allen key in the socket for the top of the front strut, is that when you have it out and are taking off/putting on the spring?

Oh, and is about a foot under the hub enough room? I have my jackstands on the 1st setting, not very high...not sure if I can get them up higher given the grief it took to get them to this level.

THANK YOU!!

Ryan



_________________


2002 Darksilver/Black Cooper S
Pres, PDX MINI Cooper Club

 

No. Leave the three bolts in the top, pry the bottom of the strut off the hub carrier, then remove the top bolts. Otherwise, you have no leverage to pull the hub down and get the strut out.

The crazy allen top strut thing is after you have the spring compressor in place on the strut, out of the car. That's what holds the spring on, so if you remove it before you compress the spring - kerpoing! the spring would shoot the retainer across the room and probably poke someone's eye out!

A foot under the hub is more than enough room to remove the strut.

Randy

 

Project Lowering/Stiffening Update:

Ok, the rear is done. Got the sway installed and the KN springs sprung.

Did hit one unavoidable glitch though. KN accidentally sent out pre-March build front springs. Thought I was losing my mind at first. The pre-March build front springs are longer and have a narrow bottom coil. MUCH different than post-March builds. So after a quick call to George @ Mini-Madness, KN is shipping me out the correct front springs overnight. I've got the front struts already out and springs removed.

Boy, you weren't kidding about getting that front driver's side strut out were you!! Oi!

Will post another update tomorrow after getting the springs installed and car back on the ground.

R

 

Davbret: I'm glad you got the rear sway in. Also, glad you have the rear springs done.

What the heck is up with KW shipping series 1 springs?

 

>>Incidently, Randy and I are both using the H&R springs with the MINI Madness rear sway in the forward (stiff) setting.

Really? Tell me more!! I've still got the rear wheels off so it's be no biggie to switch to the forward setting. How much of a difference? Oversteer if being agressive?

Details man, details.

R

 

Davbret: first we installed Randy's rear sway to the forward (stiff) position. Mine was on the rear (not as stiff) position as you'll recall.

Then we went out in Randy's MINI. Just to recap the set-up: H&R springs and the MINI Madness bar on the stiff setting. We went up to a housing development that was still under construction (no traffic). The car still understeers. The back end did not jump out. In fact, it was possible to get a nice four wheel drift going on and then throttle steer the car. Very very cool.

Randy let me drive his MINI, and I have to say it was very nice. So, we went back to MINI-Motorsport and quickly changed my rear sway over to the front setting.

I think you'll be happy with either setting. After seeing what I saw this afternoon, you might go to the stiffer setting, take it easy at first, and then push it more after that. I doubt you'd change the bar to the rearward setting

 

Schweeeeeeeeeeet!!!

I'll make sure to change it over tomorrow as I wait for my springs to show up.

R

 

>>Then we went out in Randy's MINI. Just to recap the set-up: H&R springs and the MINI Madness bar on the stiff setting. We went up to a housing development that was still under construction (no traffic). The car still understeers. The back end did not jump out. In fact, it was possible to get a nice four wheel drift going on and then throttle steer the car. Very very cool.


Hey Dave,

I stopped by Randy's tonight and he let me put his car sideways too..!!

 

ficcion: maybe we could refer to the suspension set-ups this way:

MINI Tarmac Suspension (lowering springs or coilovers)
MINI Safari Rally Suspension (aka Sport or Sport Plus Suspenion)

You're new Rota's would look great with a little bit of drop. :smile:

 

>>ficcion: maybe we could refer to the suspension set-ups this way:
>>
>>MINI Tarmac Suspension (lowering springs or coilovers)
>>MINI Safari Rally Suspension (aka Sport or Sport Plus Suspenion)


Safari Rally Suspension

R

 

Hi guys,
As you can see this is my first post on MCO. The reason I felt motivated to communicate with you is that I do race and high performance chassis work for a living. Anytime we lower a car, we corner balance and realign it. I don't see how your alignments won't be dramatically affected by a 1" drop and a spring change. I recommend that Randy or Ryan check thir alignments, at least. It is so important on a high performance chassis to have the alignment right on. I'd be happy to give more detailed information on corner balancing and alignment target numbers.
Although my shop races and services Porsche 911s, I also have a 2003 Mini Coopers S which I hope I will be doing threaded-body coil-over shocks on soon.

Good Luck
PerfPow

 

PerfPow,

Welcome to MCO!!

The Cooper S isn't like the 911. When you adjust the ride height in a 911 with the torsion bar adjusters, you can change the toe. The Cooper has coilovers, and when you lower it, you don't change the toe, but you do change the camber - slightly more negative camber.

The kicker is, you can't adjust the camber in the MINI!! You can unbolt the whole suspension, bolt it back up, and NOTHING changes - 'cause there isn't any adjustment.

Who do you work for? I've been a Porsche mechanic and racer for most of my life - just switched to the MINI!

Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com

 

Project Lowering/Stiffening Update:

Ok, I give up. Appears my car is going to be on blocks until George is back from vacation. I'm really upset right now.

As I previously mentioned, the wrong springs were sent. Well, the replacements showed up this morning, and they too appear to be wrong. This time they appear to look like the stock front spring, but if you put it on with the number stamp so it's right side up, they don't fit at all. There's barely any contact patch on the bottom, the top metal cup thing won't fit in it. If you flip flop it so the stamping is upside down, the bottom fits fine, but the top is at a very, very crooked angle, so the top is impossible to get on.

This sucks.

R

_________________


2002 Darksilver/Black Cooper S
Pres, PDX MINI Cooper Club

 

Hi Randy,
I started Perfect Power Inc., in Libertyville, Illinois, in 1981. We've raced in IMSA, ALMS, PSR, PCA, vintage... Lots of 911 stuff. I was one of the two Ruf dealers in the U.S from 1984 until around 1995.
I'll take your word on the alignment of the Mini, because I haven't checked a Mini yet myself. On a BMW M3 that we did last month, the alignment was a must. Most of the 911s we work on these days are coilover. Toe is the thing most likely to be affected, in my experience. Camber will most likely change the same amount, and a little more negative is a good thing for the track cars. ou certainly don't want excessive toe.
I look forward to trying some of the performance parts you recommend and taking advantage of your track experience. I still have to wonder, though... Have you actually checked the alignment after you lowered the car?

Sol

 

The 'ou' is supposed to be an 'although'. Why do my posts have that goofy, yellow, buck-toothed ping pong ball?
Sol

 

You change that by doing the following

1) go to: My Account (left colum at the top under Main Menu)
2) change your info
3) just under timezone, where it says "list" you can select any avitar you want. I choose to not have one so I chose: blank

 

Thanks Dave, I feel much more credible now!

Sol

 

hi sol.
hey could you drop the info for your shop, i might give you some business!
i've been looking for a good shop in the chicagoland area to do work on my mini!
thanks in advance!

 

Sol,

The toe doesn't change when you change the springs. MINI is set up with neutral toe both front and rear. Yep, checked the alignment. Thanks for the suggestion though!

That's a great background Sol. I worked for Peter Dawe in the late 80's then John Forbes until around '94. I've done a little bit of everything as well. Built and raced in SCCA GT2, GT3, EP, ITA, Vintage, IMSA. All the racing was with Porsches from 356 to 914-4 to 914-6 to 911s. I don't have any experience with any of that water cooled stuff, but it seems pretty trick! I started the "other life" in 1993ish, so the latest motor I worked with was the 3.6 air cooled six.

Thanks again for the input, I'll keep you and everyone else advised.

Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com

 

Ok, the car is DONE!!!!

By sheer luck, George was to fly out Friday evening, but his tickets thought otherwise.

Me so happy!! Car sits low. The front seems a bit higher than the rear, but that's a visual illusion. It's actually perfectly level right now. So as it settles over the next week, it should be perfect!!

R

 

Ok ok...here's a couple of quick pics to wet your whistle:

BEFORE


AFTER


NEW SWAY AND SPRINGS


R

 

Congrats on getting this done Ryan. I'm glad your MINI won't have to spend the weekend on jackstands. Looks great.

 

Awesome Ryan!! I see you are going to try out the rear swaybar setting first - chicken!

So how do the tops of the KWs work on the front strut?

Randy

 

Actually that picture was taken after I first got the bar on. It was still on jackstands when I saw your posts about the firmer setting. I switched to the firmer myself, but haven't tried it out yet. Too rainy and cold. Just going to go play tomorrow...and I'll let you know how I like it!

As for the tops of the KW...well, here's the thing. First of all, they are a differnt design that the HR are, slightly. There are two close coils at the bottom, then one larger spaced, wider coil, then a single tight coil again. That threw me. Whereas the stock spring rests completely on the bottom perch and allows the top perch to fit level, the KW only contact the bottom perch on one side, then it fits fine up top. I just wanted to make sure they were ok before attempting this based on the stock springs, the pictures I saw of the HR and my own lack of knowledge.

Couple of tips I discovered:

When installing/removing the swaybar link on the front, a 17mm open end wrench will hold the "bolt" from behind while you ratchet/socket it from the front with a 16mm.

As for installing the top nut on the stut, I had no problemo at all. Just cranked down with 21mm socket till it was tight. Then installed back in car. Then, since the rear fin holds the strut from twisting once in the hub, you can continue ratcheting down from under the hood. No need for that crazy allen key/socket/pliers thing.

Also, I found a jack MOST useful when reinstalling the front struts. Used it to raise the hub over the bottom of the strut after bolting it down on top. Just wiggled the strut as I lifted the hub with the jack. Then I could leave it jacked up and bolt in the lower strut bolt.

R

 

I would make sure that the strut doesn't turn while you are tightening the top nut, mine does. That's why they have the allen on the top. Even if the strut body can't move, the strut shaft itself usually can.

That's a good way to do the drop link - what I do is put an allen on the ratchet, use the wrench, and ratchet the link off that way.

I think I use the jack as well - sorry for leaving that out. It becomes pretty apparent while you are doing the install. Thanks for filling in the gaps!

I can't wait to hear your eval on the KW. Have you gatten to try out the H&R anywhere? I'd be interested in a comparo.

Randy