I put the H&R springs on this evening. Very noticable difference in roll - much flatter. The stiffness seems about the same as stock - maybe just a tad firmer, but only under compression (cornering) which makes sense considering they are progressive rate springs.

The install was straight forward, though if you aren't familiar with spring compressors, I would recommend taking it to someone who is (that would be me in the Denver area :smile: ).

Things I noticed:

The driver side front strut is the hardest to remove - it's slightly longer than the passenger side.

The top of the strut on the front is somewhat difficult to tighten - it's recessed and requires an allen to keep the strut itself from turning while you tighten the top strut nut - requires some innovative tool usage.

More negative rear camber.

How to do the install:

Remove the front strut
1. remove the swaybar droplink from the strut
2. remove the brakeline and ABS sensor from the strut
3. completely remove the lower strut bolt from the hub carrier
4. push the bottom of the hub carrier down until you can remove the front strut
5. remove the three top strut bolts

Remove the stock spring and replace with H&R
1. compress the old spring
2. remove the top strut nut cover
3. remove the top strut nut
4. slide off the old spring
5. compress the new spring and reverse the order to complete the process
6. be sure to align the rubber stops with the spring before tightening the strut nut

Replace the front strut
1. reverse the order used to remove

Remove rear strut
1. remove brake lines and ABS sensor
2. remove lower strut bolt
3. remove top strut plate bolts from underneath
4. slide out strut from underneath

Remove the stock spring and replace with H&R
1. compress the stock spring
2. remove the strut nut on the top (much easier than the front to work with)
3. compress the H&R and install
4. be sure to align the rubber stops with the spring
5. replace the strut nut

Replace the rear strut
1. Reverse the order used to remove
2. you may need to jack the strut to raise it to the bolt mount

You now have H&R springs on your car!

Note for 2minis: jackstands were used during all portions of this modification

Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com

_________________




MINI-Motorsport

 

Randy,

Great write-up. I'm looking forward to seeing your MINI tomorrow.

The one thing you're missing are some pictures. So, here are some of my MINI before and after.



Measurements to bottom of plastic wheel molding

Front

Before: 25.25"
After: 24.5"
Drop: 0.75"

Rear

Before: 25.5"
After: 24.5"
Drop: 1.0"

Here are some before and after pictures of the front and rear wheel gap.


Rear Before


Rear After: total drop 1.0"


Front Before


Front After: 0.75"

 

Well how cool is that?!?! I'm taking tomorrow off work to start my KN springs and Madness rear sway install, and here you post directions for the spring install!!! YOU ROCK!!

Couple quick questions for you:

1-Do you happen to remember the bolt sizes? I want to make sure I have the right tools before I start. I've got a pretty good socket set, but want to be sure all the same. Did you need any ratchet extenders to get to anything?

2-Could you clarify about the use of the allen wrench on the front struts?

3-Could you clarify about the use of the jack on the rear strut when reinstalling?

Thank you so much! And beware, Dave gave me your cell number.

R

 

1. Strut tops - 13mm socket, swaybar nut - 16mm wrench, front strut lower bolt - 18mm socket, front strut top nut - 21mm socket, rear strut top bolts - 13mm socket, rear strut lower bolt - 21mm, rear strut top nut - 16mm, wheel bolts - 17mm.

2. The strut top nut would spin if you tighten it without holding the top of the strut. To facilitate this, the strut is an allen at the top so you can hold it while truning the nut. I'm sure there is a factory tool for this, but I used a socket that allowed the allen to go down through it (the socket) to the strut top allen. Then I used monster Channel Locks to turn the socket. I am think of just buying another impact quality socket and welding a bar to the side of it to turn it with. All of this will make sense when you see it.

3. The rear strut might be farther extended than the lower part of the hub carrier where it bolts on. I was able to compress it enough by hand to allow the bolt to line up with the mounting hole, but you may need a jack to compress the strut a little to get the hole to line up.

Hope that helps, and good luck! It should take about two hours or so.

Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com



_________________






MINI-Motorsport

 

Randy,
I've got 215...17 Yokos and bottom regularly.
R u having any problems with street driving?
Could you also comment on the Magnoflow
for the street....
If I autox it won't be more than once a month.
Thanks.

 

Thanks Randy.

So to make sure I understand:

1-Thanks for the sizes. Should normal sockets work, or do I need open end wrenches or shallow sockets? I have some open end, but mostly normal depth sockets.

2-Woah! I think I understand, sounds tricky. I'm sure I can come up with something. Thanks.

3-So you're saying to bolt the top of the rear strut back in, then use a jack to compress it up, in order to reinstall the lower bolt?

I still can't believe you JUST put this info up the day before I tried this install.

R

 

Davbret,

1. Normal sockets work fine - the only place you need a wrench is for the swarbar droplink because you need to use an allen to keep it from spinning (similar to the strut top).

2. Good luck

3. Yep, that's the way to do it. Don't snug the top bolts, just get them had tight, then start the bottom bolt. After you get everything in place, tighten it all up.

I read your mind- I'm good like that

Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com

 

Thanks!

God, you are going to be sick of me and wish you didn't post these directions...but what is the swaybar "droplink"? God I feel dump sometimes!

R

 

You'll see it. It's attahced to the strut and comes off of the sway bar. You have to remove it to get the strut out of the car. Just look at the strut, and remove everything that's attached to it - the "droplink", the brake line, the ABS sensor, the lower bolt, and the upper bolts. Once you get in there and take a look at it, it starts making sense.

Randy

 

>>Wish I could trade electrical services for mechanical sometimes.
>>


... Wish I was a couple hours south ... I'd gladly help you with this if you'ld do my stereo upgrade ... I ain't no sparky!

 

Here's a pic of the drop link. As randy points out, the drop link is the part coming off of the sway bar (it's that link attached to the rear pick up point on the sway).

 

I found a picture from when we did the rear sway install on my MINI of the stock sway bar disconnected from the drop link

 

Bah! Nevermind, I understand now. I was looking at some close-ups of the rear sway. You're talking about the bolt facing towards the wheel that has a 'pin' in it that has to be held by an allen key to prevent it moving while ratcheting the bolt. Right? Hence the need for an open end wrench so you can stick the allen key thru the middle. Aha!

R

 

Yup, you got it. That's the one. :smile:

 

>>>>Wish I could trade electrical services for mechanical sometimes.
>>>>
>>
>>
>>... Wish I was a couple hours south ... I'd gladly help you with this if you'ld do my stereo upgrade ... I ain't no sparky!

Oh I wish Roy! I am going to just take my time and learn as I go. With all the help from this site I don't see how I'll fail.

R

 

Ok, more questions! (hey, I'm just doing my part to make sure this thread is the end all of spring install threads )

First off, I was wondering what you thought of the following comment I found on a MINI2 thread about installing springs:

Didn't see any talk about worrying about half shafts falling. Anyone know what this person is talking about?

Secondly, I thought I'd pass along a tip I found about removing the driver's side strut:

Is that a good tip?

And lastly, any idea on the size of the allen wrench for the sway bar link/top of struts?

R

_________________


2002 Darksilver/Black Cooper S
Pres, PDX MINI Cooper Club

 

The droplink is for the FRONT swaybar though, Dave is showing the rear bar - same part. You don't have to pull the rear droplink.

I think I mentioned that the front strut is longer on the driver side - but no matter, yes the tip is good. Just be careful with the front disc rotor, as there is a backing plate that you don't want to bend.

As long as you don't get insane with the hub carrier, there is no danger of the halfshaft falling out... I think that guy must have had a pint or a yard or some other such british measure of alchohol


The allen for the front strut is metric, but for the life of me I can't remember what size. Just get a metric set of allens from the local harware store, you'll need them for the swaybar install too. They are cheap anyway.

 

Cool, thanks! Ya, that "halfshaft falling" bit was a bit odd and concerning!!

Is there a reason why you didn't use an open end wrench on the top of the front struts instead of using a socket with pliers?

R

 

Ryan,

You'll see when you pull the strut. You could probably tell just by looking at the top of the strut in the car. When you remove the strut nut cap, you can't get to the nut with a wrench - it's recessed.

Randy

 

Aha! George had said he used an open end wrench and an allen key. He must have a magical, bending wrench.

T-minus 2 hours and counting until car goes up on the jack stands in the garage. Oh! That reminds me...where's the best place to jack stand at each corner?

R

 

Use the factory jack pads. They are obvious to find, and there is one at each corner.

 

Coolio. After Gromit's jack-point failure thread I've been uneasy about using them...but didn't see a better spot. Thanks!

R

 

Well R, how did the install go? Don't tell me you're still out in the garage!?!

 

Project Lowering/Stiffening Update:

Well, got a late start at it this evening as I had to go out and get some needed sockets. Then I started drooling at Sears and ended up getting the 122 piece socket set. It's very tastey. So by the time I made it back home from the mall, the CROWDED mall, and had dinner there wasn't much time left in the day.

Got the car up on jackstands, which let me tell you, is an accomplishment in of itself!! With only one floor jack it made for some creative manovering. Thank god for a stiff unibody!

Still a little daunted by this task at hand. Yikes!! What have I gotten myself into here? I just wish I had mechanical friends near by. They are all too far away to try and reel in for assistance. I've got a friend with "arms but no skills", as he puts it, that will help me on Saturday for the rear sway.

Pray for my soul tomorrow morning when I start with the worst thing first: driver's side strut. I figure I should get it over with so it's downhill from there. Or would you start simple, say the rear, first?

Oh, and do those strut top covers under the hood just pop off with encouragement, or what?

R(yan)

 

R(yan) - weird spelling