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SuspensionSprings, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
I just installed offset FCAB, Powerflex camber inner ball joints, IE fixed plates, Bilstein B6, Swift spec r springs. Attached shows the final alignment settings, the best the shop can do. I’ve read that for “set and forget” set the rear camber to half of what’s in the front. What do you guys think of my alignment settings? Should I be a bit concerned about the .2 and .3 degrees of of more camber on the driver side? Or is that difference too small?
Since your front isn’t really adjustable, you pretty much have what you have. I would prefer more camber in the back for a daily driver. You really don’t want the back end coming about on your commute.
Since your front isn’t really adjustable, you pretty much have what you have. I would prefer more camber in the back for a daily driver. You really don’t want the back end coming about on your commute.
Is -3 camber not too much? I like how it turns in and how the rear steps out just enough, but I haven’t tracked it yet to tell. Is the difference between driver and passenger negligible?
Yes, negligible IMHO. -3 degrees for track is awesome but for daily driving, not so much. -2 would be a good compromise but , as stated above, it is what it is.
Yes, negligible IMHO. -3 degrees for track is awesome but for daily driving, not so much. -2 would be a good compromise but , as stated above, it is what it is.
Oh cool! Thanks NC! I’m glad to hear that -3 is awesome for the track as I had no idea what camber is track focused . I’m ok with compromising daily ability a bit. I’m going for 65%track/35%daily car.
The IMPORTANT part of this question...while YES, the right and left side SHOULD be different...
Do the side to side numbers come closer...with the driver IN the SEAT ?
When setting up my car (JCW, with stock shocks and aftermarket springs), with the help of a shop, I found that, with my car...the difference is about 1/3 (.3) of a degree difference, side to side, with me in the seat, vs. no driver weight load.
I set my car up appropriately.
The numbers that I used came about from several trips into the local canyons and checking the scrub on the tire tread. Verified a nice even scrub pattern, only myself in the car.
-1.5° front, -.75° rear
I've got Ireland Engineering parts at both ends.
The IMPORTANT part of this question...while YES, the right and left side SHOULD be different...
Do the side to side numbers come closer...with the driver IN the SEAT ?
When setting up my car (JCW, with stock shocks and aftermarket springs), with the help of a shop, I found that, with my car...the difference is about 1/3 (.3) of a degree difference, side to side, with me in the seat, vs. no driver weight load.
I set my car up appropriately.
The numbers that I used came about from several trips into the local canyons and checking the scrub on the tire tread. Verified a nice even scrub pattern, only myself in the car.
-1.5° front, -.75° rear
I've got Ireland Engineering parts at both ends.
Mike
Hey Mike,
I was actually thinking about that. So are you saying that when you get in the driver seat, the driver side camber decreases by .3? In my case, if you sat in my car, the driver side will go from -2.9 to -3.2 making it even with the passenger side granted there is no passenger?
Because the weight of the driver lowers the car and changes the camber by about .3? At least in your case? I’m just asking for more understanding, it’s not like I’m going full racing. And like NC said, the difference is small but it’s still nice to know. I understand these are theoretical as spring rates may vary and there are other variables.
I was actually thinking about that. So are you saying that when you get in the driver seat, the driver side camber decreases by .3? In my case, if you sat in my car, the driver side will go from -2.9 to -3.2 making it even with the passenger side granted there is no passenger?
Because the weight of the driver lowers the car and changes the camber by about .3? At least in your case? I’m just asking for more understanding, it’s not like I’m going full racing. And like NC said, the difference is small but it’s still nice to know. I understand these are theoretical as spring rates may vary and there are other variables.
Yes sir. We checked it a couple of times. Once before my adjustment, then after my adjustment, and his "computer" adjustment of the whole suspension.
Yes, again...only in ALL cases. Unless the driver is a REAL lightweight, and the car has heavy springs, the drives side will drop..."some"...amount. Again, depending on the springs and the drivers weight.
If you weight 150lbs, the car will not lower as much on the drives side as a driver that weighs 250 lbs. (same springs).
You just need to check the camber both driver weighted and driver out of the car, then adjust the camber accordingly. Unless you find a shop that will allow you to sit in the seat...while...they complete the adjustments, that's the best way to do it.
Many...years back in the manual adjustment days, I used one shop exclusively, because he let me sit in the car while he did the adjustments. Difficult to find these days.
I think you will find the -3 camber up front perfect for the track, but possibly a little too much for regular driving. I wouldn't sweat the difference between driver and passenger side, as they'll likely equal out depending on how much you weigh.