Attempting to replace the front shocks on my '12 Cooper S with new Bilsteins. I was able to get the old strut out, have the spring swapped over, new upper mount installed, finagled it back into place, but nothing I do seems to be able to get the strut to go into the steering knuckle. The tab is lined up with the slot and pinch bolt is completely out, but the strut hasn't even gone in far enough for it to interfere yet anyway even if it wasn't oriented correctly. The knuckle just seems to be too damned tight. Videos it looks like folks are just able to slide / wiggle the new strut in. This one sure ain't doing that.

I've tried every tip I could find multiple times - prying the knuckle open with a big screwdriver (some folks said 1/4 inch drive ratchet, but the gap isn't large enough on mine to get one in), turning the wheels all the way in both directions, lubricating the contact surfaces, wiggling it, cursing at it. Have tried it with the upper mount bolted in place and not...

I'm on the verge of ordering a steering knuckle separator, but it won't arrive tomorrow at who knows what time and I was hoping to have my shock install completed yesterday. Unfortunately I can't find anywhere locally who sells one. I'm also concerned the thing won't even work, as it seems like trying to have it in place while inserting the strut would just result in the tab on the strut hitting the wedge on the tool once it gets down that far.

Anyone got any other suggestions of things to try? Spent all day yesterday fighting with it and it's on the verge of breaking my spirit. I'd give up and take it somewhere, but I can't even do that since it can't be driven without the damn strut in place.

 

With the car supported on jack stands, I put a floor jack underneath the lower control arm, (protected with a block of wood). Then slowly jacked it up while watching to make sure everything was lining and tapping the knuckle lightly with a mallet. Both sides went in without a hitch.

 

Is the knuckle still attached to the car? You might have better luck on a bench. Perhaps the paint on the new strut is on the thick side. You also might be able to get better leverage to open up the knuckle with it out of the car.

 

Was able to make this work by sticking with it, but it definitely took awhile. Front struts are in. Just waiting for my ibuprofen to kick in so I can go knock out the rears right quick.

Thanks for the replies, folks!

 

Sorry I saw this post so late, next time take some coarse 80 grit sandpaper and sand down the inside of the strut barrel to remove all the rust and slag, then lube er up and slider er in!!

 

I'm having a similar issue but not because the hole isn't big enough...I just can't seem to get the angle of the knuckle right to get the end of the strut over the lip of the hole. I've tried turning the wheels, putting on coil compressors, trying to push in the damper...I just need like a 1/2" of clearance to get it in there and don't wanna pinch off a finger.

 

Disconnect the sway bar if you haven't already done that

 

This handy little tool was designed just for this task:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...-tool/scw3435/

You stick it in the back and twist it. (that's what she said) It will open up the strut hole just enough to allow the strut to slide in.

 

I used a pickle fork between the knuckle halves. Gave it a few wacks with a dead blow and it spread the sides apart easily.

 

Hi all,

Bouncing this thread in the (somewhat desperate) hope that there's one more tip for this problem.

Back story: New to me 2003 R53, BaT purchase in March. Got it home, took it to dealer for a key and safety inspection.

Dealer: "Car looks great. Only issue is front strut mounts needs to be done. $900"
Me: "Sounds like a great quarantine project. Hold my beer"

Driver's side went easily enough using procedures found by generous contributors on here.
Pax side I discovered that there was no head for the punch bolt anymore - someone else had snapped it off. Tried drilling, made a mess of the knuckle but not the strut (I think), ordered new knuckle. Took off old knuckle, had a devil of a time getting the strut out even so (angle grinder to get rid of the bolt, then some 2-pound persuasion). Got new knuckle on car, brake back in place, etc. Now stuck for a long time on getting strut back into knuckle, car back on road, family to stop laughing at my project, etc.

Have tried:

• Sandpaper around bottom of strut and entry to knuckle
• PB Blaster
• 1/4" ratchet trick
• Cursing
• A bit of persuasion with dowel and hammer trying to get it better lined up
• Correct tool for spreading knuckle as per this thread.

The spreader tool just arrived last night and I am able to get it all the way to "level," i.e. full capacity, but the strut still doesn't budge. I did at one point have it halfway in but took it out to see if I could make progress with a fresh start - didn't work and now I can't even get back to that point.

Is it possible the strut itself is subtly mushroomed? It did come out of old knuckle but as per above it took some effort to get it there. Jacking on the arm is compressing the whole strut and lifting the car, even with the spreader tool at full "extension." Would rather not have to replace struts so hoping there's one more brilliant suggestion from this community that will get me over this hump and back on the road.

Thanks for all ideas.

 

Hi - Just to close this out, I finally met with success today. The missing trick (which I found on a VW forum) was to use a penny as a shim inside of the split in the knuckle when using the spreader tool. That gave just enough extra stretch to allow me to persuade the strut into place. Leaving this here for the next person to confront the issue.

 

Thank you guys for this information (over the pond - UK), have same problem, new strut will not go in! all the same techniques used, until now, ordered the spreader socket. the penny to assist the spreader is a brill touch too.