I'm trying to understand my mini, I thought these cars self center steer from factory?
It seems like when I turn my f56 JCW mini it stays turned, My other cars return to center. I hope I'm describing this correctly. I'm guessing it needs more caster = better feel? On the interstate, during straight drives I'm always correcting. It has always done this even before I started modifying/changing my suspension, and still continues to. Would preloading My NM sway bar help? Also I know I do need to take it in for an alignment, but I was wondering how others have theirs set up.

 

My F56 drives straight on highway with minimal steering input. It is stock suspension.

 

I had that particular problem. It was a result of the factory DME recode.

Check alignment
Then
Reinitialize EPS (Electronic Power Steering)

 

I believe I need more caster, it wonders all over the place. Yeah it goes in a straight line, but as soon as you turn the wheel it goes that direction until you turn it back. I'm getting tired of this! especially on road trips 45 mins in it just drives me crazy. I've searched for caster Adjust on the f56 cant seem to find a write up, and I'm not to sure about the
K-MAC Stage 2 Street/Race - Front Adjustable Camber/Caster Plates 195416-2N

 

 

 

I have no idea on cost.

I remember driving away from the dealer, and making a left turn, and steering wheel not recovering.
Took it back and they said the alignment was fine, caster was around 5 and equal.
drove it for a few days, and returned, another tech looked at it, and returned it to me 10 minutes later, we went for a drive, and
it was fixed. He said he reinitialized the EPS because he believed the previous DME recode didn't fully reset everything.

Did you get a DME recode? It would have been a 4/2017 "recall" they didn't make public.

 

Wow, no I didn't, thanks! I didn't know that.. sounds like exactly what I'm going through. I need to get to the dealer, its 2 hours away in Pensacola. The recall should fix it? not sure if they will even work on my car with the mods and being out of warranty.

 

My issue was a result of a failed coding. But the symptoms you exhibit are the same.

An independent BMW/MINI shop can do this.

 

I took it to a local place this morning (Sport Motoring Santa Rosa beach FL) and made an appointment for next thurs. I tried to tell them what was going on, they seemed to not understand, but willing to help. They said that can do factory resets / presets, what ever. They kept asking me if a CEL was on, and there isn't. I ran the codes its perfect. I'll should probably get an alignment too while its there. I have a feeling I'm going to be spending a lot of money and the car will come back the same..

 

Go for a road test with them driving. If they can't see what is happening, drop them off and keep on driving to another shop. Initial contact and understanding is often the key in getting things fixed.

 

I was thinking the same, that's a great idea, thanks...

 

We did a road test, the tech wasn't sure if its the JCW handling characteristic or a need for a recode Hopefully He will put it up on the rack tomorrow. Meanwhile I called mini they told me no such problems like that reported, they didn't even ask what I was driving, I told them it has 9k miles. They said they will do an alignment but it will cost me. I'm not driving 2 hours for an alignment. So back to the independent shop tomorrow...

If someone can chime in here maybe its just me.. Post a video or tell me what there experiencing from a factory F56 JCW point of view correct steering feel.
I may just need to drive another JCW or a buy different car...

Forget it, I'm selling it...

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used...ting=212630003

 

I don't get your problems, driving a F56 JCW standard as daily car, its perfect. Ok it never reaches 248 km/h, its twisty and dangerous at higher speeds, but fast enough.
The car is ex factory well balanced and gives nearly all classes of drivers the impression of being fast, not many really go over 200 km/h.

If you are considering track days or race, the setup is complete different, a limited slip differential is minimum, and until you can't bring the tires over 80 Degrees C we can't talk
about discussable cornering speeds. I agree that on fast sections the mini rear is thrilling and a perfect setup and the pick of the right hardware helpful to stay relaxed.

 

Flagged Issues - Salvage history reported from your cargurus post. What exactly happened? I don't recall a mention of this. Also shows you've had it listed for 53 days.

 

Steering wheel not returning to center could be a few things.

Alignment wise: Caster and or toe

Hardware: Steering components binding, steering rack problem, damaged strut mounts, bad ball joints, seizing tie rod ends.

Judging by your car being a salvage title I would venture to guess you have chassis damage or component that has failed or was not repaired properly.

 

Nothing was ever damaged, or repaired.

 

While browsing through newtis I saw this about the steering rack :
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ing/1VnXVc97tH
which leads me to believe your problem is a coding issue. Look for "active steering wheel return" in the bulleted list at the top.
Hope this helps
-Mike

 

Ive been telling the OP this for a while!!
Reinitialize EPS. It takes 5 minutes on an ISTA machine.
Also SAS calibration, (Steering Angle Sensor)
It worked for me, I would turn, and the car wouldn't recover to center. Worse to the left.

Electromechanical Power Steering assist also negates torque steer.

 

Thank you, I've sent this link to my mechanic,

There estimating 1.5 hours to do this $177.00

 

Does that include their lunch break??

I watched the tech do it in 5 minutes.

https://www.autoequipment.com.au/ima...paper%2043.pdf

 

I wish I lived closer to you TVPostsound, I would just take it to your mechanic.
Thanks for that link it will come in handy,

I thought it was a little much. Especially when the first time he told me it would be just an hour rate.. I think Ill find another shop....

 

I don't know what the correct time is involved in fixing your issue, but when people say it is a 5 minute job they ignore the obvious things. Such as test drive car before and after, account for the fact that it might not be the solution. Shop overhead, labor, know how, software and machinery to get jobs done. Nothing is going to be charged in 5 minute increments or the shops would be out of business.

Obviously as the consumer you have to decide, but don't do it on the basis of 5 minutes to fix it.

 

@DJTomy Did you happen to get this sorted?

And 100% what @Minnie.the.Moocher said. I work in a digital agency, and know first hand that a "5 minute" code change is easily an hour's worth of time:

• Q&A with client to clarify request (service writer gets needed info from car owner)
• PM writes up task to create a paper trail of the work and assigns to engineer (creates service order)
• Engineer makes the change and test in a sandbox (technician does "the work")
• Engineer deploys to a staging server to test against production code (does a road test)
• Engineer deploys to production, logs their time with any notes on the work, and notifies PM (returns completed service order to service writer with notes on actual work performed)
• PM confirms change with client (return car to owner)

No single step takes more than 5 minutes. Put them all together… an hour, easy. And every single one of them is necessary.

 

No, not yet, I do need help... Just seems that nobody understands what the heck I'm talking about, except you guys of course... I wish there was a Dealer that had this similar situation in the south, I would drive to it to them... The car just sits with a cover on it, I just don't drive it anymore… If anyone wants it, make me an offer...