Suspension Advise needed
#1
Advise needed
I have a 2009 JCW that I'm getting ready to do some suspension mods. At my disposal are the following: NM Springs, Koni Yellows, ALTA LCA's (supposedly not the best choice but I have them.) , and both a 19mm (ALTA) and a 22mm (Madness) swaybar. Talk to me as to what else I might need and should I go with the 19mm or 22mm bar.
I have no intentions of tracking this car but do a lot of back road midnight cruises.
Please, I've already heard all the ALTA knocking so help me with what I already have.
Thanks!!
I have no intentions of tracking this car but do a lot of back road midnight cruises.
Please, I've already heard all the ALTA knocking so help me with what I already have.
Thanks!!
#2
Maybe consider shorter or adjustable sway bar end links for both front and rear to make sure the sawybars’ positioning are neutral to start?
i just revamped my new-to-me 08 MCS and ended up with BCR coilovers which came with shorter end links, and also bought NM adj end links for the rear to pair with the Hsport 25mm hollow RSB.
i just revamped my new-to-me 08 MCS and ended up with BCR coilovers which came with shorter end links, and also bought NM adj end links for the rear to pair with the Hsport 25mm hollow RSB.
#3
On the swaybars, the normal school of thought is stock length on the back and longer ones on the front when you lower the car.
Have had my head and hands all over the bottom of the car of recent. Pretty sure the suspension set-up is similar on the Gen1's and 2 and possibly even the 3's. On the rear, the endlink is not connected to the strut/coil but rather between the main suspension frame and the wheel/bearing /brake "axle". On the front the end link goes from the sway bar, that is connected to the front suspension frame, to the strut/coil. In both instances it would seem that there is a small angle change as the body is sitting lower.
On the front the oem endlink is approximately 12.75" end to end (the bolt location center to center would be less). With my car lowered 1" the measurement I came up with so the swaybar is "unloaded" with wheels in contact with the ground is approximately 13.75". An interesting point is that the Z4 has a front endlink that appears to be 13.9" end to end. If this is the case, the Z4 endlink may work with a 1" lowered car and eliminate the need for an adjustable link.
On the swaybar, I went with a 22mm mounted at the middle position on my type of bar. Car handles very well in the twisties but I do not do AX so do not know if my current setting would produce more oversteer.
Have had my head and hands all over the bottom of the car of recent. Pretty sure the suspension set-up is similar on the Gen1's and 2 and possibly even the 3's. On the rear, the endlink is not connected to the strut/coil but rather between the main suspension frame and the wheel/bearing /brake "axle". On the front the end link goes from the sway bar, that is connected to the front suspension frame, to the strut/coil. In both instances it would seem that there is a small angle change as the body is sitting lower.
On the front the oem endlink is approximately 12.75" end to end (the bolt location center to center would be less). With my car lowered 1" the measurement I came up with so the swaybar is "unloaded" with wheels in contact with the ground is approximately 13.75". An interesting point is that the Z4 has a front endlink that appears to be 13.9" end to end. If this is the case, the Z4 endlink may work with a 1" lowered car and eliminate the need for an adjustable link.
On the swaybar, I went with a 22mm mounted at the middle position on my type of bar. Car handles very well in the twisties but I do not do AX so do not know if my current setting would produce more oversteer.
#4
When installing lowering springs on my car we kept the adjustable end links for the rear set to stock length. We re-used the stock front links. The set of coil overs I just picked up came with new front links and if need be I can adjust the rear links. The coil overs are set for ~1.5 inch drop which is the same as it sits now with the NM springs and OEM Sport Suspension.
#5
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
I wouldn't bother with replacing the end links. If they aren't broke don't "fix" them. Yes I'm a vendor that sells them, but unless you are serious track guy that is going to actually corner weight the car and can tell the difference.
And if you do check out our WMW ones. These are the only ones we use as they are sealed ball sockets so they are quiet and don't fail like the exposed heim joints of the other brands. Plus they are more cost effective.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ad...-endlinks.html
As for the sway bar go with the 22mm. But I would get the better bushings as the ones they use don't hold the grease well and end up noisy.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/22mm-s...shing-set.html
You can also upgrade the rear upper shock mounts to powerflex as the stock ones may be worn out.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...-bushings.html
I know you don't want the don't do the Alta, but if you have them you can likely sell them for more than the powerflex set. This way you won't have to do the job twice and likely save money. And if it's a street car you don't need the extra caster.
When you do drop the subframe to do them go with new sway bar bushings as you will already have it apart
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...7-r58-r59.html
And if you do check out our WMW ones. These are the only ones we use as they are sealed ball sockets so they are quiet and don't fail like the exposed heim joints of the other brands. Plus they are more cost effective.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ad...-endlinks.html
As for the sway bar go with the 22mm. But I would get the better bushings as the ones they use don't hold the grease well and end up noisy.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/22mm-s...shing-set.html
You can also upgrade the rear upper shock mounts to powerflex as the stock ones may be worn out.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...-bushings.html
I know you don't want the don't do the Alta, but if you have them you can likely sell them for more than the powerflex set. This way you won't have to do the job twice and likely save money. And if it's a street car you don't need the extra caster.
When you do drop the subframe to do them go with new sway bar bushings as you will already have it apart
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...7-r58-r59.html
#6
#7
I would get a set of Ireland Engineering Fixed camber plates for the front. They use the stock mount, so they aren't harsh, and they last. You should get to around -1.5 camber with these, you can slot the holes if you want more.
I had a set of the Alta rear control arms for years and they remained tight and quiet. Maybe I just got a lucky set. I wouldn't lose sleep over those.
I've used the WMW and X5 (FatCat) bump stops. I think either will be fine.
I ran yellows and TSW's for about 50k miles, I had them set for full soft (the instructions tell you what minimum preload is), and was happy.
The only issue I've had with swaybar endlinks is if you strip out the allen head in the stock ones, make sure that the wrench is in there properly.
Have fun,
Mike
I had a set of the Alta rear control arms for years and they remained tight and quiet. Maybe I just got a lucky set. I wouldn't lose sleep over those.
I've used the WMW and X5 (FatCat) bump stops. I think either will be fine.
I ran yellows and TSW's for about 50k miles, I had them set for full soft (the instructions tell you what minimum preload is), and was happy.
The only issue I've had with swaybar endlinks is if you strip out the allen head in the stock ones, make sure that the wrench is in there properly.
Have fun,
Mike
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#8
Getting ready to start this install any day as the parts are in my garage. Here's where I'm a little torn and second guessing myself.
Do I want to go with the NM Engineering springs and the 19mm swaybar or stay with the stock sport springs and the 22mm swaybar. I don't really care about the drop, and am beginning to worry about our roads. Is there enough handling change or is it strictly cosmetic?
Also picked up a set of H-Sport LCA's.
Thanks for any advise or help you can give.
Do I want to go with the NM Engineering springs and the 19mm swaybar or stay with the stock sport springs and the 22mm swaybar. I don't really care about the drop, and am beginning to worry about our roads. Is there enough handling change or is it strictly cosmetic?
Also picked up a set of H-Sport LCA's.
Thanks for any advise or help you can give.
#9
I've heard several people being very happy with yellows and NM springs.
That being said, when I put my bilsteins on my car this year, I'm going with stock sport springs (minus 1/2 coil), and the IE fixed camber plates up front.
I like the stiffness from the TSW undercar brace, but I lose ground clearance with that. At this stage in my life, I'll take the performance over stance.
Either way I would go with the 22 mm sway bar (or the hollow 25 mm bar). You can start on the soft setting and adjust it to your preference.
Have fun,
Mike
That being said, when I put my bilsteins on my car this year, I'm going with stock sport springs (minus 1/2 coil), and the IE fixed camber plates up front.
I like the stiffness from the TSW undercar brace, but I lose ground clearance with that. At this stage in my life, I'll take the performance over stance.
Either way I would go with the 22 mm sway bar (or the hollow 25 mm bar). You can start on the soft setting and adjust it to your preference.
Have fun,
Mike
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