Suspension How do I access top end of rear shocks?

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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 01:01 PM
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How do I access top end of rear shocks?

Hey guys,


What's involved in accessing the top end of the rear shocks (F56)?


I'm upgrading the shocks. I have a habit of breaking snaps/pins/plugs that hold the internal side panels so I'd like to find out how/what I need to do to get to the rear shocks before I start pulling things apart. I've checked several vid's on YouTube & they all show under the car as if the top of the shock just "magically" comes loose.


Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cdninsw
Hey guys,


What's involved in accessing the top end of the rear shocks (F56)?


I'm upgrading the shocks. I have a habit of breaking snaps/pins/plugs that hold the internal side panels so I'd like to find out how/what I need to do to get to the rear shocks before I start pulling things apart. I've checked several vid's on YouTube & they all show under the car as if the top of the shock just "magically" comes loose.
Thanks!

.
 

Last edited by gumbedamit; Apr 26, 2017 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 02:12 PM
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If the gen3 are anything like the gen2 and gen1 then you can't, you need to remove them from the car.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 06:35 PM
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The rear shocks bolt into the wheel well from below. Relieve pressure on the rear control arm, unbolt the bottom bolt, then unbolt the top bolts and out it comes.

--Matt
 
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mattkosem
The rear shocks bolt into the wheel well from below. Relieve pressure on the rear control arm, unbolt the bottom bolt, then unbolt the top bolts and out it comes.

--Matt
Wait, what? I don't need to pull out panels & go through the trunk? Nice! I almost forgive MINI for what they put me through replacing the struts last weekend. lol It took forever to get the right front into the bottom "clamp" and get the tab into the groove.

So, I'm probably going to need a decent length extension for the ratchet to reach up there?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 02:26 AM
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On the gen2 there are 2 bolts (I believe 13mm head) inside the wheel well. There is room up there so a long extension is not necessary.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 09:40 AM
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It's super easy to do. I pulled mine off my R53 a few weeks back. The toughest part was removing the lower bolt which can seize a bit due to surface rust.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
On the gen2 there are 2 bolts (I believe 13mm head) inside the wheel well. There is room up there so a long extension is not necessary.

Hey Cerenkov, thanks! It sounds like this is going to be fairly easy, which is nice for a change.


Of course I won't have access to the top of the shock to adjust firmness... but at least I've had a week playing with settings on the front struts so if I have to leave the rear shocks at one setting I have a decent idea how I want to set it.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 12:01 PM
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Depending on your brand of shock, some people have drilled a hole in the inside plastic panel and sheet metal to insert an extension rod down to make adjustments. If done well it can look OEM. The tricky part is drilling the hole in the correct location.

I believe Koni makes an semi-flexible extension rod for this purpose for some of their products.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Minibeagle
It's super easy to do. I pulled mine off my R53 a few weeks back. The toughest part was removing the lower bolt which can seize a bit due to surface rust.


Thanks Minibeagle, I replaced the rear springs last week & had to disconnect the bottom of the shock to do that and it wasn't bad.


I was so convinced I'd have to go through the trunk/hatch to get to the top of the shock I didn't even look up to see what the top of the shock looked like from below. Through the trunk is how it worked on my Honda's.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
Depending on your brand of shock, some people have drilled a hole in the inside plastic panel and sheet metal to insert an extension rod down to make adjustments. If done well it can look OEM. The tricky part is drilling the hole in the correct location.

I believe Koni makes an semi-flexible extension rod for this purpose for some of their products.


Interesting! They are KONI Sport struts/shocks (with Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs).
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cdninsw
Interesting! They are KONI Sport struts/shocks (with Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs).
I'm interested in hearing how they ride. I'm looking at going that route, or possibly the Bilstein + Eibach kit (B12).

--Matt
 
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mattkosem
I'm interested in hearing how they ride. I'm looking at going that route, or possibly the Bilstein + Eibach kit (B12).

--Matt
Hey mattkosem, so far I'm liking the Eibachs. Commuting mostly highway to work & our roads are in pretty good shape. Of course the Eibachs are firmer than stock but replacing the run-flats with non- run-flats softened the ride slightly, then the Eibachs firmed it up past stock but not too much (to me anyway).
Near zero dive during braking & minimal roll on turns. The car just "feels" faster. Turns at speeds that might concern me stock are just plain exciting now. And the Michelin Pilot SS's feel twice as sticky. Everything about the car feels better.

I really wanted adjustability on the struts/shocks & the Koni Sport Adjustable's gave me at least the first step (softer/firmer).
Full soft is too "loose" for the Eibachs so they "push around" the shocks. I find midway between soft & firm, or slightly less, is totally cool for daily.. Full firm is too much for daily with nearly no movement on sudden bumps, but would be intetesting to try maybe 1/4 -ish below full firm on a track.

i like the Eibach/Koni combo. They are similar "level" so work with each other well. And with the Komi adjustabllity you have options for full soft, where the springs "bully the shocks, through to full firm where the shocks bully the springs.

significant improvement over stock but probably any sport springs-shock
 
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