Has anyone noticed the suspension forum gets almost ten times less traffic yet this is the number one mod (besides tires and driver) that increases speed? If you're lurking here looking for speed, you should pat yourself on the back

Or... maybe we can argue about cold air intakes more

 

yep - I'm going OCD about which coilovers to buy, I wish there was more here in the way of reviews and comparisons.

 

Talk to Chad @ Detroit Tuned, Way @ WayMotorWorks, Eric @ Helix, and Chris @ Sneed 4 Speed. All of them can give first hand accounts of their usage. You have to decide for yourself in the end. However, KW sure is the popular choice.

 

Check out our TSW spec KWs they are an awesome setup as they are not the off the shelf KWs you buy anywhere. TSW years ago speced these out after a bunch of testing and have linear springs on them for ultimate performance without killing the ride.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/kw-vari...r55-56-57.html

 

I didn't mean to turn this into yet another coilover thread, but since we've gone down the path...

The ideal solution is about 1" drop, adjustable rebound, and camber plates. Yes the KWs are on the list for consideration.

KWv2s plus a set of Vorschlag camber plates are $2400 give or take. Same for Bilstein PSS10s, the advantage to the Bilsteins is the rears are adjustable without having to cut holes in the car or drop the shocks. And then there's BC Racing for half the cost with all the raves here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-feedback.html

Decisions, decisions....

 

Just make some access holes in the boot for the rebound adjusters. It's not the end of the world. Just pop the boot lid open and they're ready to go. Much better than crawling around on the dirty ground.

 

I don't find permanently cutting holes in my cars chassis "better" personally lol. Just my personal feel on things.

I'm absolutely with you on the entertainment of everyone pulling their hair out over intakes... one of the most over prices, least effective mods everyone buys. But I guess $3-600 for some whooshy noises is a better investment than the dozens of suspension component combinations that amount of money could buy.

I originally thought "This is a really pointless thread", but I see it being a fun one....because on these cars, the suspension really is a major upgrade to focus on.

Though, I'll say this: If you don't track it or get competitive in AutoCross, an adjustable rear sway bar and camber plates really are as far as you have to go to perfect the factory setup, IMO. For a strictly daily driver that you get spirited in sometimes, anyway.

 

I sure wish I had linear springs on my KWV2 coilovers. Mostly from the standpoint of being able to fit a larger width tire up front. Even with 10mm spacers and running a +43mm offset wheel, I'm cutting it close with a 215/45/R17. I bet one could more easily fit a 225 in there with the smaller dimensions of the linear springs.

 

InjectedGT, I only half agree with your statement "If you don't track it or get competitive in AutoCross, an adjustable rear sway bar and camber plates really are as far as you have to go to perfect the factory setup." That's a great start but for DD duties I'd like to get a more compliant ride. The stock suspension can be a bit stiff and uncomfortable on some of the bumps around here. That's why I'm thinking about adjustable coilovers to smooth things out for daily driving, while being able to stiffen it up for track days.

One other thing I'm thinking about is the effect of weight distribution. Over the summer I had to squeeze 3 adult passengers in for a ride across San Francisco, they were amazed at the handling. The weight in the back seat made the car feel really different. I'm not sure what that means yet for picking optimum spring rates for front vs. rear.

 

If you're looking for a more compliant ride don't cheap out on the coilovers as the ride won't be any better than stock and likely worse. Good shocks make a huuuge difference in ride quality. Good shocks also have a larger range of adjustment in them. If you ever find shock dyno graphs you can see the adjustment that a certain shock has from "click 1" to "click xx". Also, just because one shock has more "clicks" of adjustment doesn't make it a better shock. What you're looking for is a shock that has a wide range of rebound force when you go from full stiff to full soft.

 

Couldn't be truer. I have driven in and autocrossed 2 different vehicles with KYB AGX adjustable shocks in them and they are GARBAGE for an adjustable shock. Neither myself, nor the owner of the cars could feel a single bit of ride quality difference between softest and stiffest, and they actually performed their best on the softest setting as anything harder and all they did was bounce the car around, lose traction, and cause problems. So definitely don't think just anything that is adjustable is going to be an improvement or even something you can fine-tune. Take those garbage AGX's as a prime example of an "upgrade" that hurts performance and ride quality.

 

SquawSkiBum,
You don't automatically have to go to coil overs. There are definite advantages to them. For me (DD only), a set of Koni Yellows made a huge difference in ride and compliance over bumps. I give up the ability to adjust the ride height of the car, but the Koni's are single adjustable also.
It depends what you want. You can get some cheap coil overs for the same price that I have in my TSW/Koni setup, but I don't know if you want cheap coil overs. I'm also happy with the Fixed IE camber plates, but I don't change my alignment.
Lots of options here.

Good thread also. I've put money into the search for HP, but the accessport is the only one that seems like it has shown value, IMO. Suspension makes a difference, easy to feel the changes. I'm looking forward to putting some summer tires on in the spring, then I may be done (?) with the mods....

Oh yeah, the JCW suede steering wheel is another mod that makes me smile, though it isn't from improved performance....

Have fun,
Mike

 

mbwicz,

I know I don't have to go all the way to coilovers, but for what I want (better DD ride, ability to stiffen up for track days) I figure that just new struts or just new srpings would be only half of the solution. As long as I'm spending the bucks and taking the car apart, might as well get it done. Plus I like to tweak things.

I appreciate the input though.

After a lot of thinking I decided that instead of going for HP first I'd go for suspension/handling, aero, and brakes and get as fast as I can (as measured by lap times) without increasing HP. So it was really interesting to see this thread pop up! 22mm RSB and free camber mod are the best bang for buck mods ever. I also put on the GP2 belly pan, I'd swear my mileage has gone up but it is too early to tell. Next are new tires and coilovers/camber plates. Then a BBK.

 

DO you have the aero bumper kit? If so, and if you are serious about track days, might want to pair that belly pan to the center sections and rear diffuser.

 

How do you properly set front adjustable sway bar end links ? Rear of the car likes to slide out or come around when cornering hard. Started with the front end first.

 

You have to adjust endlinks with the suspension loaded. That means either doing it on a lift where you can get under it or put the front of the car on ramps. Loosen the lock-nuts on the endlink and make it as long as you can by hand. Then make it as short as you can by hand. Then split the difference and tighten everything down. It's not super complicated. And you only have to do one side.

 

Lot's of options--it all depends on what you're doing and your budget.

I have the TSW KW V2's, and it's a good all-arounder, but it's a compromise--it's good on the street, good on the track, but not great at either. You can't ramp up the spring rate as high as I'd like because it'll be out of spec with the dampers. That being said, it's still a very good coilover, with the exception of the rear adjustability--I cut holes above my tower to get at them. When I got the original pictures of the KW's, it showed the adjustment on the bottom of the rears, but that was the wrong picture, still mildly miffed about that. The Bilstein's are also good, and have the advantage of being able to get at the rear adjustment easily. So these are both a good compromise for the DD/occasional track car on a reasonable budget (you really do get what you pay for with coilovers/springs). But with regard to adjustability, the adjustment make a difference, but it's several clicks before you notice it, unlike pricy coilovers, where one click is immediately noticeable.

Me, I'm most likely going with JRZ RS--expensive, but you can run insane spring rates, and the car is still more comfortable on the road than the KW's, and much, much better on the track. But they do have to be rebuilt--most are getting 20,000 miles on them, it's worth it for a car on the track frequently, but otherwise not.

 

Thank very much sir, I'm starting alittle build today actually and it involves the suspension starting with bushings and end links.

 

COUNTRYBOY !!! Kudo's to you for the thread. With certain issues that are beaten to death. This thread is really good and right on time. Congrats. Letting people know what parts to use and what is available is awesome. Honestly, I'm clueless with suspension and how to set these cars up by weight properly. Who ever knows how to balance the car mostly for street but see's the track 2-3 times a year, it would be nice to know how they're balanced from factory and how to set up the car initially off of jacks. Step by step for dummies would be good.

 

You're making a very good point about a suspension setting/upgrade list for various situations. The data certainly is scattered and hidden all over the internet. Might be something worthwhile to write over a weekend morning coffee.

 

I think this post should be required reading for anyone new to modding MINIs. Imagine the time, money, and stress saved through this insight. Granted there are different opinions and purposes for each individual's desires when it comes to suspension/handling; but bottom line is that this should be the starting point for MINIs. The insight, knowledge, and effort from folks like CountryboyShane, SPRINTCARS, etc and vendors like Way, etc is often thankless and unrewarded. Folks like them don't have to chime in and impart their wisdom, advice, and experience. For all the newcomers I would say that before you spend one dime, read their posts, call vendors like Way and Detroit Tuned, and then decide.

 

WOW !! never got a compliment before, Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated. now I have a question, lol As stated in a previous post, I'm prolly gonna take my car to NJMP in Millville prolly 2-3 times a year at most. but when I do, I don't wanna track prep it. I started changing the bushings I bought and noticed the front pads are required. got about half the life left but there not the OEM pads and theres a lot of dust. I wanna put different ones on. red, yellow, EBC ? way has all kinds. which ones ? still got the factory rotors and calipers. (for now) how bout it WAY, which ones fella's ? I like touchy brakes that I can really feel but put you thru the windshield. LMAO

 

I always mod the suspension first. On my R59 I've got frt and rear swaybar end links, NM springs, NM 22mm rear swaybar. Complete under panels and rear diffuser. This winter going with coilovers. It's between KW Clubsports, Ohlins DFV's, JRZ's (not sure if these are made?). Will corner balance and race align.

 

Forsure if you want less dust, The Red Stuff pads are the ticket!

But then again the yellow ones might give you that snap you're look for.

 

Another suspension mod - Front strut braces, such as the JCW, NM, etc. FSBs. Any opinions on whether it is worthwhile, or just bling?

I read an article recently about a chassis dyno shop that tests chassis stiffness, steering response, etc. for manufacturers and racing teams, the shop guy said he's never seen a FSB that made a measurable difference.