Does anyone know of a way to get around -6 degrees of camber in the rear? I am lowered and my wheels are rubbing badly on the inside of the fender and the outside as well. Right now I have about -3ish degrees of camber stock. One question I have is about camber plates. The ones that promise camber are only, at most, -1.5 degrees. I am wondering how a couple people on here are running more camber than that? I'm assuming they are using custom camber plates.

Another question, if I were to get a camber plate that promised -1.5 degrees, would that make me have -4.5 degrees of camber, or would it be unaffected as I already have more than -1.5 degrees of camber?

 

Camber plates are for the front. Most camber plates that Im aware of are good for 2.5-3 degrees of negative camber max.

Extra camber control in the rear is usually gained via the use of adjustable control arms. Adjustable control arms should allow for as much negative camber as you need.

 

Perfect, just what I was looking for. Do you have experience with Alta's control arms?

 

I picked up a set of used Alta control arms. Direct bolt in. I am only dropped a little bit (TSW springs), so things went well. There is almost 2" of overall length adjustment in the arms.
I can't confirm that control arms will help your clearance issues. Most guys replace the lower arms, and to get more negative camber, the arms would be extended. I would think for clearance that you would want to tuck the top of the wheel in, rather than shift the bottom of the wheel out. As you drastically adjust the camber, the toe will also be changed, and I don't know if the front adjustment on the swing arm is enough to make your car driveable. Can you trim down your spacers, or is your clearance that tight inside?
My guess is that someone more experienced will tell you what to do. Maybe give Alta a call and explain your desires and situation, or Way Motor Works?

Have fun,
Mike

 

Honestly I would go with almost any other brand. The Altas are expensive and the exposed spherical bearings they have are not very durable.

Try looking at Helix or H-sport

 

-6 out back is quite a bit more than I'd think reasonable. Might there be a better approach to the clearance issue? What rims (diameter, width, offset) are you running and what tires, and are you using spacers?

 

He's got 16mm spacers and from the look of his profile picture a low offset wheel. Definitely for looks and not performance.

RedAndBlackMiniS, I have Vorshlag camber plates and getting -2.5 degrees of camber in the front is not a problem. You need to purchase H-sport rear lower adjustable control arms to make larger adjustments to the rear camber.

 

with this camber, you'll be going through rear tires like one month old going through the diapers.

 

I am running wheels that are 16" wheels with a 8.5" in width (in the back) and have an offset of 14. I am not using spacers with the BBS wheels. I have 205/35/16 tires in the back. Only thing I can think of is more camber, as the rub marks on the tires are on the very outer part of the tire, so I'm HOPING negative camber will solve the rubbing issue, or at least help it a little. It is not performance oriented, I use my stock wheels with 5mm spacers for track days.

 

Stay away from any lower rear control arms that have the adjusters and nuts at the end. They type with the adjusters and nuts in the center (like the h-sport) are MUCH easier to adjust when it comes to lowered cars.

Also as someone else said the Alta ones have exposed ends and will fail early if you have any kind of sand or grit on the roads where you are.

I have H-Sport in my clubman and from some simple calculations we should if i wanted to get easily 4-5 degrees of negative camber. Getting to 6 may be difficult.

 

+1 to alex123

@ -6 degrees rear camber you will be destroying tires. What you really need to do is get wheels with the proper offset. Another possibility would be to flare the wheel openings

On the track the car would understeer terribly with that camber. For proper rotation in turns you should have settings of -1.5 to -2.5 front and -0.5 to -1 in the rear. If the car is lowered you should get a full alignment done because the camber and toe are changed when the vehicle is lowered more than 1". Sometimes it is necessary to change all 4 of the rear control arms to completely correct the geometry.

 

lol, if we are talking about rear -6 camber for the track, the car simply will not turn until you come to pretty much complete stop. last year i was playing with rear camber during HPDE event and @ -2 it was plowing like a pig (-2.2 front), at -1.5 i had to trail brake the hell out of it to induce rotation.