Does anyone experience squeaking with the NM Engineering Rear End Links installed?

I'm currently on the NM spring with the Hotchkis 19mm RSB on order, thinking of getting them together.

I'm thinking to get the end links because my RSB at the moment looks tilted upwards on flat ground, but if it's going to cause noises then it's not a worthwhile trade-off for me.

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

Have you lubed them by chance? Some kind of lithium grease might help.

 

I have had the NM front and rear end links for over a year now and when tightened properly, they have not squeaked or clunked.

Cheap end links can be notoriously noisy including squeals and clunks.

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm still contemplating if I should get them, if it's too much of a hassle.

How often would you tighten them? Would they get loose on their own?

 

You generally do not need them usless you lower the car substantially, around 1.5" or so. Or if you put lots or stress on the car's suspension like track use.

You don't have to retighten them unless they are noisy when they loosen. I have not retightened mine yet but had to on cheap end links. Just make sure they are torqued correctly during the initial install and they should be fine.

 

Thanks again for the advice. I'll give it a skip then since I'm only on NM Spring (~1.2") and don't track my car.

 

I'm using Way Motor Works endlinks with NM springs, Alta 19 mm rsb (lined up in a neutral position) and Hotchkiss control arms, no noise at all but it's only been four months.

 

Edit: I thought you were talking about front control arms. My bad

 

Hi Bug, you may wish to reconsider the end links, your RSB is tilted up because you have lowered NM springs, and now have a degree of preload on your RSB that you need to overcome. Your RSB should be level with the ground. The NM endlinks come preset to match the NM springs, and will improve handling characteristics. No they don't squeek. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the advice. How long have you had them installed?

 

Also, anyone can share what are the consequences of a pre-loaded RSB? So what if it's preloaded? Sorry noob here

 

Have had them installed for close to a year Oct. 2010.
Consequences probably are not that great if you don't track, I don't track either, but your RSB is already being twisted when the car is stationary, and from my understanding, you want the bar to start twisting when you go thru turns, and not have to overcome the already twisted bar, and then have it start performing as it should. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

i have identical rear set up (with both upper and lower H-sport control arms). if you are going to track or AutoX the car, i think getting the end-links is the right way to go: more durable than OEM and adjustable links allows setting the RSB angle correctly.

i have had this set up for 6 mo now and no squeaking at all.

 

If you aren't planning on corner balancing your car with coilovers there isn't much point to getting these. Just sayin...

 

Look at Powergrid endlinks. None of the hiem joint type endlinks have enough articulation to cope with how the front suspension works. Powergrid endlinks work very well; they are an OEM ball in socket design but the fit, finish and materials are all for racing...and these have been track tested at the pro level. I used a set for about 100K miles on nasty public roads and on the track - on my JCW.

There is no pre-load per se when the car is sitting level and if the RSB is installed properly. The stock bar is angled a bit and this is was done to reduce stress on the SB bushing - it sits at an angle on the sub-frame. You should try to match that angle if at all possible.

If a swaybar is not horizontal with the ground while the car is sitting on perfectly level ground, one end will twist more in one direction than the other. When the SB ends are parallel to the ground, one SB end twists up and the other down, but equally. You can actually tune a SB for different effects by playing with the static angle...you will notice either a softening or a quickening response from the same bar by pointing the bar ends up or down - but equally on both sides...I'm not suggesting a circle track-jacking approach. If you have adjustable endlinks you can try this for yourself...just make sure the bar ends clear the rear trailing arm for the entire suspension stroke...you won't be happy if those two components come into contact