Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension Help with suspension

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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:10 AM
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Help with suspension

Hi guys, I have a 2010 Mini Cooper S that I want to lower. I was looking at both springs and coilovers. My budget is tight so springs would definitely be the cheaper route for me but I know that getting a set of coilovers is the best solution. My question is, would I need to replace anything else if I installed springs or coilovers or can I keep everything else stock?
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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I just had H&R Street Performance coilovers put on my 2011 JCW. Lowered the car about an inch. Nothing else had to be changed, but it did need an alignment. I also had it corner balanced with 220 lbs (my body weight) in the front seat, this was not necessary but I figured since I had already done a rear sway bar and now the coilovers, I might as well have this done also while it was being aligned. The coillovers are more expensive, but WOW are they nice. The ride is smoother than the stock suspension.
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Pez D. Spencer
I just had H&R Street Performance coilovers put on my 2011 JCW. Lowered the car about an inch. Nothing else had to be changed, but it did need an alignment. I also had it corner balanced with 220 lbs (my body weight) in the front seat, this was not necessary but I figured since I had already done a rear sway bar and now the coilovers, I might as well have this done also while it was being aligned. The coillovers are more expensive, but WOW are they nice. The ride is smoother than the stock suspension.
Thanks, so the sway bar is not necessary? What did you pay for the H&R coilovers with installation if you don't mind me asking? Any pictures?

The reason I'm concerned about the need to change any other parts is I read somewhere that the control arms "need to be adjusted to bring the camber back to spec after lowering." Can anyone chime in on this?
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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What I meant was that cornering balancing is not necessary, but neither is the rear sway bar necessary. However, since you would have the installers under the car already, I'd have them do the rear sway bar at the same time and maybe save a little on the instalation of the sway bar, if you want the sway bar. As far as control arms go, that depends on how much you want to lower your car. I didn't really want to lower mine but the coilovers I used lower the car an inch minimum. If you only lower an inch, control arms and/or camber plates are not necessary. Depending on how much you lower your car will mandate whether or not you need them, I don't know how much lowreing this might be, but yor installer can tell you that. For my car the coilovers and installation, corner balancing, and alignment cost a little over $2500. The shop I went to is considered by many to be the best high performance suspension shop in the area, and they are more expensive than many. My cars handing is awsome. The ride is better, no vibration in the steering wheel, no increase in road noise and maybe a little quieter. I will also suggest that while your car is up on the lift, have them install an NM Engineering Engine Control Arm Bushing. Its a $60 part that eliminates a lot of torque steer. Once the car is in the air it only takes a couple of minutes to install. For me it eliminated all my torque steer and wheel hop on heavy acceleration. When I installed an Alta Access Port tune on my car, a little of the torque steer came back.
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Pez D. Spencer
What I meant was that cornering balancing is not necessary, but neither is the rear sway bar necessary. However, since you would have the installers under the car already, I'd have them do the rear sway bar at the same time and maybe save a little on the instalation of the sway bar, if you want the sway bar. As far as control arms go, that depends on how much you want to lower your car. I didn't really want to lower mine but the coilovers I used lower the car an inch minimum. If you only lower an inch, control arms and/or camber plates are not necessary. Depending on how much you lower your car will mandate whether or not you need them, I don't know how much lowreing this might be, but yor installer can tell you that. For my car the coilovers and installation, corner balancing, and alignment cost a little over $2500. The shop I went to is considered by many to be the best high performance suspension shop in the area, and they are more expensive than many. My cars handing is awsome. The ride is better, no vibration in the steering wheel, no increase in road noise and maybe a little quieter. I will also suggest that while your car is up on the lift, have them install an NM Engineering Engine Control Arm Bushing. Its a $60 part that eliminates a lot of torque steer. Once the car is in the air it only takes a couple of minutes to install. For me it eliminated all my torque steer and wheel hop on heavy acceleration. When I installed an Alta Access Port tune on my car, a little of the torque steer came back.
Thanks so much for the in depth response. $2500 is a lot for me right now, but I think I can get everything done for less since I'm not getting everything you have. I looked up the H&R coilovers and they're about 1k, I'm going to see what some local shops would charge for the installation.

I don't want to lower my car any more than 1.2", but the guy whos website I was reading lowered it 1.2" and he still replaced and adjusted the control arms. I'm definitely going to look into the NM bushing. Thanks!
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 03:46 AM
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Op, I would ask you what you want to change with the car's handling? And what do you want to do with the car? That would determine what types and kinds of parts you need.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by slinger688
Op, I would ask you what you want to change with the car's handling? And what do you want to do with the car? That would determine what types and kinds of parts you need.
I don't really want to change anything with the handling, if whatever I do improves the handling then great but I'm mostly concerned with how to car looks while maintaining at least a stock level of comfort. I'm also on a lease and don't want to install a bunch of after market parts. This car is my daily driver.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Yardley
I don't really want to change anything with the handling, if whatever I do improves the handling then great but I'm mostly concerned with how to car looks while maintaining at least a stock level of comfort. I'm also on a lease and don't want to install a bunch of after market parts. This car is my daily driver.
I think a good alternative is the NM engineering spring. Comfortable and works well for a DD. Does drop the car 1.4".
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by slinger688
I think a good alternative is the NM engineering spring. Comfortable and works well for a DD. Does drop the car 1.4".
Will I be ok with those springs if everything else is stock though? I noticed that a lot of people seem to change the control arms once they drop the car.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 05:45 AM
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Changing the rear control arms is useful for adjustability. You can increase negative camber with the drop. For the front, get as much negative camber as you can get. On the rear, try and keep it under -1.8. Generally you should be fine with the drop as there is some adjustment in the back.

Too much negative camber can chew up your tires.

Since it is a lease, perhaps you should consider not changing anything as well.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by slinger688

Since it is a lease, perhaps you should consider not changing anything as well.
Yeah, that's what I keep telling myself but the little voice in the back of my head says otherwise.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 06:55 AM
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It is a slippery slope for many of us.

But if you mechanically inclined and can do most of the work yourself, it may be just the cost of the parts. However, for many suspension changes, itdoes require alignment. Since you are doing it for looks, I think it is too much money to spend.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by slinger688
It is a slippery slope for many of us.

But if you mechanically inclined and can do most of the work yourself, it may be just the cost of the parts. However, for many suspension changes, itdoes require alignment. Since you are doing it for looks, I think it is too much money to spend.
It definitely is, especially since its a lease, I'm just thinking about lease end and having to put all of the stock parts back. Makes me wish I would have bought instead. I might just go with new wheels without a drop. I messaged the owner of a Mini with Tean Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels that look really good and it looks like he's on stock suspension. Check out it here https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...se-wheels.html

It's the blue one half way down the page from "MiniEnvy." I think it looks good and if its stock suspension I'd be happy with it. Here is what my car looks like now

 
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