Suspension Help with suspension
Help with suspension
Hi guys, I have a 2010 Mini Cooper S that I want to lower. I was looking at both springs and coilovers. My budget is tight so springs would definitely be the cheaper route for me but I know that getting a set of coilovers is the best solution. My question is, would I need to replace anything else if I installed springs or coilovers or can I keep everything else stock?
I just had H&R Street Performance coilovers put on my 2011 JCW. Lowered the car about an inch. Nothing else had to be changed, but it did need an alignment. I also had it corner balanced with 220 lbs (my body weight) in the front seat, this was not necessary but I figured since I had already done a rear sway bar and now the coilovers, I might as well have this done also while it was being aligned. The coillovers are more expensive, but WOW are they nice. The ride is smoother than the stock suspension.
I just had H&R Street Performance coilovers put on my 2011 JCW. Lowered the car about an inch. Nothing else had to be changed, but it did need an alignment. I also had it corner balanced with 220 lbs (my body weight) in the front seat, this was not necessary but I figured since I had already done a rear sway bar and now the coilovers, I might as well have this done also while it was being aligned. The coillovers are more expensive, but WOW are they nice. The ride is smoother than the stock suspension.
The reason I'm concerned about the need to change any other parts is I read somewhere that the control arms "need to be adjusted to bring the camber back to spec after lowering." Can anyone chime in on this?
What I meant was that cornering balancing is not necessary, but neither is the rear sway bar necessary. However, since you would have the installers under the car already, I'd have them do the rear sway bar at the same time and maybe save a little on the instalation of the sway bar, if you want the sway bar. As far as control arms go, that depends on how much you want to lower your car. I didn't really want to lower mine but the coilovers I used lower the car an inch minimum. If you only lower an inch, control arms and/or camber plates are not necessary. Depending on how much you lower your car will mandate whether or not you need them, I don't know how much lowreing this might be, but yor installer can tell you that. For my car the coilovers and installation, corner balancing, and alignment cost a little over $2500. The shop I went to is considered by many to be the best high performance suspension shop in the area, and they are more expensive than many. My cars handing is awsome. The ride is better, no vibration in the steering wheel, no increase in road noise and maybe a little quieter. I will also suggest that while your car is up on the lift, have them install an NM Engineering Engine Control Arm Bushing. Its a $60 part that eliminates a lot of torque steer. Once the car is in the air it only takes a couple of minutes to install. For me it eliminated all my torque steer and wheel hop on heavy acceleration. When I installed an Alta Access Port tune on my car, a little of the torque steer came back.
What I meant was that cornering balancing is not necessary, but neither is the rear sway bar necessary. However, since you would have the installers under the car already, I'd have them do the rear sway bar at the same time and maybe save a little on the instalation of the sway bar, if you want the sway bar. As far as control arms go, that depends on how much you want to lower your car. I didn't really want to lower mine but the coilovers I used lower the car an inch minimum. If you only lower an inch, control arms and/or camber plates are not necessary. Depending on how much you lower your car will mandate whether or not you need them, I don't know how much lowreing this might be, but yor installer can tell you that. For my car the coilovers and installation, corner balancing, and alignment cost a little over $2500. The shop I went to is considered by many to be the best high performance suspension shop in the area, and they are more expensive than many. My cars handing is awsome. The ride is better, no vibration in the steering wheel, no increase in road noise and maybe a little quieter. I will also suggest that while your car is up on the lift, have them install an NM Engineering Engine Control Arm Bushing. Its a $60 part that eliminates a lot of torque steer. Once the car is in the air it only takes a couple of minutes to install. For me it eliminated all my torque steer and wheel hop on heavy acceleration. When I installed an Alta Access Port tune on my car, a little of the torque steer came back.
I don't want to lower my car any more than 1.2", but the guy whos website I was reading lowered it 1.2" and he still replaced and adjusted the control arms. I'm definitely going to look into the NM bushing. Thanks!
I don't really want to change anything with the handling, if whatever I do improves the handling then great but I'm mostly concerned with how to car looks while maintaining at least a stock level of comfort. I'm also on a lease and don't want to install a bunch of after market parts. This car is my daily driver.
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I don't really want to change anything with the handling, if whatever I do improves the handling then great but I'm mostly concerned with how to car looks while maintaining at least a stock level of comfort. I'm also on a lease and don't want to install a bunch of after market parts. This car is my daily driver.
Will I be ok with those springs if everything else is stock though? I noticed that a lot of people seem to change the control arms once they drop the car.
Changing the rear control arms is useful for adjustability. You can increase negative camber with the drop. For the front, get as much negative camber as you can get. On the rear, try and keep it under -1.8. Generally you should be fine with the drop as there is some adjustment in the back.
Too much negative camber can chew up your tires.
Since it is a lease, perhaps you should consider not changing anything as well.
Too much negative camber can chew up your tires.
Since it is a lease, perhaps you should consider not changing anything as well.
Yeah, that's what I keep telling myself but the little voice in the back of my head says otherwise.
It is a slippery slope for many of us.
But if you mechanically inclined and can do most of the work yourself, it may be just the cost of the parts. However, for many suspension changes, itdoes require alignment. Since you are doing it for looks, I think it is too much money to spend.
But if you mechanically inclined and can do most of the work yourself, it may be just the cost of the parts. However, for many suspension changes, itdoes require alignment. Since you are doing it for looks, I think it is too much money to spend.
It is a slippery slope for many of us.
But if you mechanically inclined and can do most of the work yourself, it may be just the cost of the parts. However, for many suspension changes, itdoes require alignment. Since you are doing it for looks, I think it is too much money to spend.
But if you mechanically inclined and can do most of the work yourself, it may be just the cost of the parts. However, for many suspension changes, itdoes require alignment. Since you are doing it for looks, I think it is too much money to spend.
It's the blue one half way down the page from "MiniEnvy." I think it looks good and if its stock suspension I'd be happy with it. Here is what my car looks like now
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