Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension Front Disc Rotor Install?

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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 01:40 PM
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Dwight Walhood's Avatar
Dwight Walhood
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Front Disc Rotor Install?

I've got a set of front EBC Sport Rotors due in soon and would like to install them myself. Pads will not be changed as they're new. Need to know if there is a specific torque figure for the two bolts that hold the caliper in place. Also, are there any tricks I need to be aware of? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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That blog has great information for changing front/rear pads, front/rear discs. The torque values are in the Front AZD File. Dont forget to torque the wheels back on to 103 Ft-lbs.


http://r56mini.com/tisdocuments/
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by adude007
That blog has great information for changing front/rear pads, front/rear discs. The torque values are in the Front AZD File. Dont forget to torque the wheels back on to 103 Ft-lbs.


http://r56mini.com/tisdocuments/
Thanks TONS adude007! That's as good as it gets.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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On the note of brakes, whats the correct fluid for the MINI.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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DOT4, is the low viscosity fluid that is required. There is another specification that can go in. But DOT4 is the one for the MINI. DO NOT USE DOT3! You can not use DOT3 in a DOT4 system. I believe you can use DOT4 in a DOT3 system tho.

If I am not mistaken the brake fluid reservoir cap should say what fluid to use.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dwight Walhood
Thanks TONS adude007! That's as good as it gets.

No problem.

Also, I believe that you need a Torx T50 to get the disc mounting bolt off. Its best to do this first when taking off the disc. Because if you cant get it to go without spinning you can always put a screwdriver in the disc vent and let the screw driver act like a door jamb against the carrier to keep the hub from spinning.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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Don't forget some PB blaster. It works wonders on those bolts on the caliper after tens of thousands of miles.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 01:43 AM
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Let me know how your install goes. I plan on doing this mod myself also.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by AXO
Let me know how your install goes. I plan on doing this mod myself also.
Install was a disaster! When I thought all was done, I happened to notice there was an "L" by the part# on the box one of the rotors came in. Dug the other box out of the dumpster and there was an "R" on it. Nowhere in the instructions is there mention of a right and left rotor and the two look the same. Guess which ones I put where. Got to do the job twice ! BTW, an old brake man warned me about new rotors. Clean them thoroughly TWICE with brake cleaner and rags before install. There is an oil based coating on them to prevent corrosion while in storage. Makes bedding in a lot less dramatic! The pic shows the job done wrong. Note the direction of the curve of the slots. Good Luck!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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Dwight I would have made the exact mistake. It never fails. Thanks for the tip!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Dwight, doing the job twice qualifies you as an expert.
Just think how easy it will be if you ever do it again .( and you will )
Best of luck.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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"Expert" Brake Job

Lessons learned from a first time "expert brake man":

1. Cleanliness is next to Godliness. Figure out how much brake cleaner you think you'll need and then buy 3X as much!
2. Use the best brake anti-squeak/lube you can find. I used CRC Disc Brake Quiet and CRC synthetic brake & caliper grease. Put them only in the places specified. Result? No squeaks or weird noises.
3. Be certain to torque all fasteners to the correct settings.
4. Be ready for a humongous mess. Brake dust goes everywhere! My kitchen sink is going to need sand blasting.
5. Be certain you know left from right, LoL.

BTW, I decided to go with EBC's Red Stuff pads F/R while at it. Big surprise on the rears. You need a special retraction tool for the rear calipers! BMW has one for $160 and Outmotoring has a better one for $40. Take your pick.

I don't ever want to do this again for a long, long time!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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What EBC part number rotors did you buy, and where did you get them?. I'm finding it difficult to find which EBC rotors fit the R56 MCS. No response from EBC, and no knowledgable local dealers.

How do you like them?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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The EBC part number is GD 1488 (LEFT & RIGHT!). I got mine from WMW. Best price I could find @ $205 + shipping. Bedding the rotors and Red Stuff pads takes awhile (500-1000mi.), but I already like what I'm feeling from the pedal. The cold brake grabiness is gone and the brake feel keeps getting better all the time. Also, no brake noises at all. Must have been the Master Brakeman that installed them! LMAO
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Whn the funds come in im planning on doing a rotor change. Wanna get the slotted and drilled set. Its true that you haveto clean the rotors well before use cause if the pads get that residue on it its guna mess up the bed-in.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Dwight,

Sounds rough. At least you got the rotor situation figured out before you were driving it around incorrectly.

Even though those darn rotors gave you a hard time sounds like you are happy. Which makes the effort worth it.
 
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