Hey there guys.

I'm lowering my JCW on Bilstein PSS10s, and I want to remove as much of the rear camber that will be brought on due to the drop. Now from inspection, I can see that the rear lower control arms have eccentric bolts held on by a regular hex bolt.

Am I right in saying that in order to make the rear camber as positive as possible, I have to loosen the hex bolt, and twist the 12-point nut thingy so that the rear hubs are as vertical as possible, and then retighten the hex bolt?

Thanks in advance
Elie

 

That's how it works. When I lowered mine 1.4", I needed to get adjustable control arms because the stock arms do not have the adjustment travel necessary get the 2 degree of camber the cartypically requires. Keep in mind, taking the camber to zero does not insure long tire life but will impact your cornering ability.

 

Way Motor Works recommends 1.5 neg in the rear.

 

Thanks for that.
I'm not going to go back to 0 deg, I couldn't even if I wanted to, cos i can't get more than around 0.5 deg out of the adjustment. I'll run as little neg camber as I can at the rear, and run slightly more at the front. The setup will be a little more aggressive than I need, but that's ok, until I get some rear adjustable arms.

 

You'll need to adjust toe if you touch the camber and drop the car too.

- Andrew

 

Yeh I'm taking it to an alignment shop straight after the install, just wanting to minimize the rear camber while I have the car up so it's not ridiculously negative when I have everything installed

 

I recommend letting the springs settle before getting it aligned, cause when they do your alignment will change.
Let use know what you get when you do get it aligned.

 

That's a good point, I forgot about the springs settling. I already had it aligned on Thursday....

I got them to dial in -2 deg front, and -1 deg rear, with 0 toe front and +2mm rear, cornerbalanced at 53/47% cross weight (couldn't get any better cos the right front spring and left rear spring are too soft. I can't get more than -2 deg up front cos the top nut that comes with the Vorshlag camber plates won't go down the whole way and will touch the strut towers if I go for more than 2 deg.

 

The front of the control arm is also adjustable, as it has some play in it. So between the rear eccentric and arm front, you can adjust both camber and toe.

I run -.4 degrees with zero toe. Seems to work quite well on the street. You don't need a ton of rear camber as the suspension geometry pretty close matches the body roll. ( Street use. Race is another matter)