So just picked my '11 MCS and really looking for get rid of an inch or so on the pretty high ride height, but just had a few questions for those that have done it already. I am looking at getting NM springs and had a mix of information on some answers I was looking for to make the change.

1. Camber? I know what it is but with the 1 in. drop will it be an issue that I will have to fix, if so whats the best way to do so.

2. Suspension wear on the entire system for a DD on Boston streets that are far from forgiving at times. 5-6 years or more like 1-2 before needing new components?

3. Ride height issues in the snow/slush during what could be a harsh winter this year. Anyone have problems?

4. Wheels size. I'm running stock right now 195/55 with 16s but will be getting a set of winters for the 16s and 17s in the summer. What is the ideal size so I dont have rubbing issues? Generally have a max of two people in the car so really its just a pothole and speed bump concern.

5. Estimated price to have installed professionally since I dont have a garage readily available to work on it myself. Oh and any shop recommendations in the Boston MA area would be awesome too.

Thanks guys, really getting into making this mine.

Would love some guidance on any of these

 

The OEM suspension does allow for minor camber adjustments after a lowering package.
You should be able to get the desired specifications you're looking for.
If not, a set of camber plates really add to the total package to set-up up your alignment specs as you see fit.

I'd be VERY suprised if you're replacing OEM bushings within 4 years / 75K miles due to "excessive" wear.
Now replacing bushings / components for a "performance basis" is different.
But the suspension components should last for quite a while; common aged replacements are struts and bushings.

Dropping an inch isn't going to kill you.
The problems would only be tall frozen ruts if you city is inferior on plowing correctly.
A good set of snow tires will get you through just about anything that the weather will throw out this season.

Keep the 195/55-R16 size for the winters.
You could decrease on the tread width to increase pressure for trudging through the slush.
But in terms of rubbing, an inch drop (on stock size rubber) will not put you in the area of possible rubbing.

What kind of components? Aftermarket or OEM?

Check your local regional sub-forum on NAM to see who they recommend.
They should have a good grip on who's the tog-installer based on your desires / requirements.

- Erik

 

I am also going to get some Blizzaks for the winter, same size as the all seasons I have now. Come Spring I plan on getting a set of wheels and tires just for summer driving. Any recommendations on summer tires, size being the thing I am most unsure about. I am thinking of going with 17s but dont know width and such really seems like people get crazy with tire sizes but I am really just looking for some wheel gap shrinkage with the inch drop.

Also, just thinking of picking up some coil overs since thats what those with springs seem to lead to eventually anyways. Are sub $1000 COs worth it?

 

Blue pretty much hit everything. Springs work fine in the snow. I ran H&Rs for for plenty of snow. The tires are where its at and sounds like youve got that covered. You should be able to adjust the camber just fine as well. It tends to sit a little more squatty, and I noticed it was quite squirrely out back especially with runflats

Coils are generally a 'get-what-you-pay-for' situation. Im about to raise my VMaxxs back up tomorrow and they will see thier first winter. Could be thier last lol. They're generally pretty noisy so far, and I dont even know if theyll clear my Bridgespokes yet without spacers...

 

Having lived in New England all my life I will have to disagree with blue on the drop for winter. With the bad roads here to begin with lowering the car more than an inch can cause you problems even during the summer months.

The lower the MINI the more slush you will have to push around and that make getting thru it much more difficult.

I agree the height is of concern to many people but if you can wait out the winter IMHO you would be better off.

As for "snow" tires I will say you are choosing one of the best. Personally I have Dunlop Winter Sport 3D 195/55 R16 Runflats. I have the runflats for winter because I do a lot of night driving to VT, NH and ME for ski trips and don't want to be on the highway changing a tire in a snow storm. They will at least let me drive to the next exit to change a tire.

My clubman is at standard ride height and will go thru just about anything but a friend has his lowered 1.25 inches and has a lot more trouble in the snow than I do with the same tires just because of extra amount of snow he pushes around.

Of course depending on exactly what town you live in and have to drive thru make a big difference as well due to how well they plow the roads.

A for summer tires the only thing I can say is don't buy Yokohama S.Drives they have not lasted on my car with the spirited driving I do. Only have about 14K on the set and they are totaly shot. They stick great but wear out very quickly, at least in my experience.

I run 215/45 R17 tires for the summer and have no issues with the size. And you should be able to lower the car an inch or more with out problems on that size, many have done it.

 

You guys must have it worse than Minnesota and Colorado.
I sit corrected then; it's not as difficult to "plow through" in our neck of the woods with a slightly lowered vehicle.

Depends on your personal use for them.
If you're wanting to set a ride height for appearance and like slightly firmer ride for an econ budget, yes, they're practical.
However do keep in mind that most (if not all) coilovers still lower the vehicle to some degree even at their highest perch setting.

- Erik

 

I would absolutely rather have NM springs with Bilstein HDs vs. cheap crap coilovers, especially in a colder climate with poor road quality and snow. The Bilsteins have MUCH better damping and to me that's the most important part of the suspension IMO. More durable too.

195/55/16 on stock wheels is good for snow.

215/45/17 or 205/45/17 are the good sizes for 17's...do some research and pick what you like best.

I did push a bit of of snow/slush with my stock height 1st gen Mini this year, but we got a ton.

- Andrew

 

I hate being so conflicted on this. Haha.

COs and being able to raise the ride height in the winter and lower in the summer seems like a great thing but justifying $1000+ for them and parts to fix camber seems harsh for just a DD.

Springs and HDs seem like a good route since I live in Boston/Brookline, have garage parking at home and work, and dont get too much snow build up usually in the city. I do however ride up north nearly every weekend in the winter and dont want to deal with that.

Schatzy - How do the Dunlop Winter Sport 3D perform? I like the idea of still have run flats for the same reason you had said given the amount of riding I do myself and Blizzaks sound great but runflats would be nice for sure.

iwashmycar - love your setup, nearly the same as mine at this point minus ride height, wheels, and you have the aero (that i wanted but didnt get). Mine is nearly identical in color but with the new Eclipse Grey that they released in 2011 MCS.

 

What andyroo says .

 

When we talk about pushing snow with 1.2" lower how much are we really talking about with winter tires? Something thats not worth the hassle even if only a few times a year it happens?

Right now I am really looking to go with HDs and either NM or Eibach Pro-Kit Spring Set to get a lower ride height but not deal with snow and bottoming out on shitty roads around here.

Thinking of sticking with current all seasons this winter and hope its not that bad and then go with new 17" and summer tires this spring.

Sound like Ill have any issues to anyone? really the first time with changing a car ride height, let alone on a new MCS.

Thanks

 

Go for the NM Lowering springs we have used them and they are great. Also they ride very well.

 

"Pushing snow" refers to the front lower air dam that actually turns into a snow plow.
With the car ride height lowered, your ground to valence clearance is reduced creating a bigger plw affect.
Hassle depends on the season; if you're getting multiple snow-falls over 4"+, you'll understand pretty quickly.

If projections for your area are looking thin in terms of snow count, it's probably not a bad gamble.

- Erik

 

I've driven a MINI lowered 2-3 inches for 8 years in Northern ohio winters. Terrible roads, 80"-100" of snow each winter, salt everywhere......zero issues.

People worry too much. Take a look at a ruler and see how small one inch truly is. It's hardly going to change your winter driving experience a noticeable amount.

 

 

Little food for thought. 'Raising' coilovers in the winter doesnt get you all the way back to stock ride height

stock:



H&R springs (worked just fine in the snow):



About as low as VMaxx's go:



As high as VMaxx's go in the front, still about 1/4" more in the rear (tires are HUGE compared to the other shots FYI)




so coils can raise to about where lowering springs start... if you dont ever really want it slammed, stick with the springs, as 'raiseability' is null and void