Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension KW Coilovers - Long Term Check / Review?

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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 07:09 AM
  #26  
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malteseracer
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I've been running on V1s for about 20k and they're just as good as the day I put them on. Took a look at them last night while it was up in the air and other than some dirt and stuff I see no issues and feel none on the road
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #27  
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bluefox280
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Originally Posted by bluefox280
Will be first weighing all corners first to see OEM distribution before tackling any lowered or raised ride heights.
Alrighty; got hold of a set of scales to begin documenting the first wave of information on the R55 JCW. The R55 JCW has the sunroof, premium pack, comfort pack, conveinence pack, park radar, sat/Nav, ...everything but aero-kit and sport suspension.

Remember, if you do this, your weights / data / info will vary.

October 23rd, 2010:
=============
I am using Intercomp Racing Products professional scale system - model SW777.
These values reflect stock (untouched / unmodified) numbers with all suspension components attached.
Why wasn't sway bars and dampers removed? Main part reason is due to long-term consistancy.
Plus, front struts cannot be removed easily to just "weigh" the car.

Stats: Fuel tank 100% / OEM Continental run flat tires @ 35psi / non-sport OEM suspension

NO DRIVER
LF: 842 lbs | RF: 849 lbs
LR: 574 lbs | RR: 629 lbs
• Front Distribution: 58.4%
• Rear Distribution: 41.6%
• Left Distribution: 48.9%
• Right Distribution: 51.1%
• Cross-Weight [wedge]: 49.2%
• Total Curb Weight: 2894 lbs

WITH DRIVER (MYSELF)
LF: 906 lbs | RF: 881 lbs
LR: 654 lbs | RR: 649 lbs
• Front Distribution: 57.8%
• Rear Distribution: 42.2%
• Left Distribution: 50.5%
• Right Distribution: 49.5%
• Cross-Weight [wedge]: 49.7%
• Total Curb Weight: 3090 lbs

What's interesting to see is with the driver only sitting (with complete tank full) is that left-to-right distribution and the wedge are very close to the desirable 50.0% mark. Regardless, here's the start of gathering intel. I should be tackling droop and bump travel very soon hopefully before the cold weather hits.

- Erik

 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #28  
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ron-s mini
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Good write-up -- Thanks -- Looking forward to more data.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 02:44 PM
  #29  
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Thank you for doing this. I, too, have been disappointed at the lack of reasonable data associated with parts sold for our cars.

As it relates to your original thread: ~20k miles on KW Variant 1 on my 08 S, and they're still going strong. Softer than others I've driven (Megan C/O, Eibach/Koni Yellows), but still sporty. Good enough on the track for a super-n00b like me.
 

Last edited by odj; Oct 25, 2010 at 02:44 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by odj
Thank you for doing this. I, too, have been disappointed at the lack of reasonable data associated with parts sold for our cars.
Appreciate the support; looking to add provide some real-world tech knowledge back into the discussions.

Originally Posted by odj
~20k miles on KW Variant 1 on my 08 S, and they're still going strong. Softer than others I've driven...
Softer in terms of spring response or damping?
Reason being I'm headed to the V2's is damping adjustabilty.
And then can swap coil springs if I need to change spring rate accordingly.

- Erik
 
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 02:43 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bluefox280
Softer in terms of spring response or damping?
Reason being I'm headed to the V2's is damping adjustabilty.
And then can swap coil springs if I need to change spring rate accordingly.

- Erik
Spring response compared to the Megans, damping compared to the Konis (set just high of medium stiffness). That's just my butt's estimation of reality though, so please don't take it for gospel.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #32  
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October 29th, 2010:
=============
With the car still full of fuel and untouched since the preliminary corner weight session, time to pull out the tape measure for taking a look a the static ride height from the factory. Again, these values reflect stock (untouched / unmodified) numbers with all OEM suspension components attached.

Stats: Fuel tank 100% / OEM Continental run flat tires @ 35psi / non-sport OEM suspension

Methodology: Using a fixed point on each of the corners, measure the center of the wheel / hub to that certain location.
I already see questions brewing: how do I measure to center with a center cap that doesn't have a "middle point"?
Easy, simply measure the center cap diameter; divide that in half to determine the radius.
Then measure from your fixed point to the tangent edge of the center cap.
Take that measurement and add the radius for the result of static ride height.

Utlitizing a tape measure, I used the top of the wheel arches as my fixed point. Note: personally the acceptable dimensioning tolerance is +/- 1/32" of an inch; if you deem that more or less precision is required, adjust accordingly. Reference: The OEM R112 'Challenge' wheel center caps measure 2-1/8" (2.125") diameter, therefore the radius is 1-1/16" (1.0625").

Top of Arch to Tangent Edge of Center Cap:
LF: 13-1/16" (13.0625")
RF: 13" (13.0000")
LR: 12-5/8" (12.6250")
RR: 12-11/16" (12.6875")

Calculated OEM Ride Height - Center of Hub to Top of Arch:
LF: 14-1/8" (14.1250")
RF: 14-1/16" (14.0625")
LR: 13-11/16" (13.6875")
RR: 13-3/4" (13.7500")



- Erik
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 02:22 PM
  #33  
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noise

Hi guys,

I got my kw v1 on my 07 MCS for about 5k clicks now and I'm still getting some sqeaky noise, especially on bumps. I think they're from the front and the mechanics said it's probably cause it's at the tallest setting (spring compressed max). He recommends that I lower it more so the spring should have more space. However, says we can't do that at the moment cause it'll rub the rims (I'm running oem R90 with 215 tires) and he suggests that I get spacers.

Any of you fellow kw owners running oem rims needed spacers? If so, what mm do you need? I appreciate your help, thanks!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:22 PM
  #34  
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Can't wait to do the same at FMR in Portland OR with Norton! Will give my info with in the month!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 04:32 PM
  #35  
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From: Central Oregon
V2's and custom spring rates.. thinking about liner and 280-300lb front and 290-300 rear. Now maybe not a rear sway bar! Looking for best droop and not picking up a rear wheel.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 06:41 AM
  #36  
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Those rates should be nice. KW is generally very conservative with valving in the rear, but 5k/5k should be pretty good.

- Andrew
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #37  
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Purie
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From: Irvine, CA
Great work, I love all the attention to detail you do. Can't wait to see some updates.
 
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