Suspension KW Coilovers - Long Term Check / Review?
I've been running on V1s for about 20k and they're just as good as the day I put them on. Took a look at them last night while it was up in the air and other than some dirt and stuff I see no issues and feel none on the road
Remember, if you do this, your weights / data / info will vary.
October 23rd, 2010:
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I am using Intercomp Racing Products professional scale system - model SW777.
These values reflect stock (untouched / unmodified) numbers with all suspension components attached.
Why wasn't sway bars and dampers removed? Main part reason is due to long-term consistancy.
Plus, front struts cannot be removed easily to just "weigh" the car.
Stats: Fuel tank 100% / OEM Continental run flat tires @ 35psi / non-sport OEM suspension
NO DRIVER
LF: 842 lbs | RF: 849 lbs
LR: 574 lbs | RR: 629 lbs
• Front Distribution: 58.4%
• Rear Distribution: 41.6%
• Left Distribution: 48.9%
• Right Distribution: 51.1%
• Cross-Weight [wedge]: 49.2%
• Total Curb Weight: 2894 lbs
WITH DRIVER (MYSELF)
LF: 906 lbs | RF: 881 lbs
LR: 654 lbs | RR: 649 lbs
• Front Distribution: 57.8%
• Rear Distribution: 42.2%
• Left Distribution: 50.5%
• Right Distribution: 49.5%
• Cross-Weight [wedge]: 49.7%
• Total Curb Weight: 3090 lbs
What's interesting to see is with the driver only sitting (with complete tank full) is that left-to-right distribution and the wedge are very close to the desirable 50.0% mark. Regardless, here's the start of gathering intel. I should be tackling droop and bump travel very soon hopefully before the cold weather hits.
- Erik
Thank you for doing this. I, too, have been disappointed at the lack of reasonable data associated with parts sold for our cars.
As it relates to your original thread: ~20k miles on KW Variant 1 on my 08 S, and they're still going strong. Softer than others I've driven (Megan C/O, Eibach/Koni Yellows), but still sporty. Good enough on the track for a super-n00b like me.
As it relates to your original thread: ~20k miles on KW Variant 1 on my 08 S, and they're still going strong. Softer than others I've driven (Megan C/O, Eibach/Koni Yellows), but still sporty. Good enough on the track for a super-n00b like me.
Last edited by odj; Oct 25, 2010 at 02:44 PM. Reason: clarity
Reason being I'm headed to the V2's is damping adjustabilty.
And then can swap coil springs if I need to change spring rate accordingly.
- Erik
Spring response compared to the Megans, damping compared to the Konis (set just high of medium stiffness). That's just my butt's estimation of reality though, so please don't take it for gospel.
October 29th, 2010:
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With the car still full of fuel and untouched since the preliminary corner weight session, time to pull out the tape measure for taking a look a the static ride height from the factory. Again, these values reflect stock (untouched / unmodified) numbers with all OEM suspension components attached.
Stats: Fuel tank 100% / OEM Continental run flat tires @ 35psi / non-sport OEM suspension
Methodology: Using a fixed point on each of the corners, measure the center of the wheel / hub to that certain location.
I already see questions brewing: how do I measure to center with a center cap that doesn't have a "middle point"?
Easy, simply measure the center cap diameter; divide that in half to determine the radius.
Then measure from your fixed point to the tangent edge of the center cap.
Take that measurement and add the radius for the result of static ride height.
Utlitizing a tape measure, I used the top of the wheel arches as my fixed point. Note: personally the acceptable dimensioning tolerance is +/- 1/32" of an inch; if you deem that more or less precision is required, adjust accordingly. Reference: The OEM R112 'Challenge' wheel center caps measure 2-1/8" (2.125") diameter, therefore the radius is 1-1/16" (1.0625").
Top of Arch to Tangent Edge of Center Cap:
LF: 13-1/16" (13.0625")
RF: 13" (13.0000")
LR: 12-5/8" (12.6250")
RR: 12-11/16" (12.6875")
Calculated OEM Ride Height - Center of Hub to Top of Arch:
LF: 14-1/8" (14.1250")
RF: 14-1/16" (14.0625")
LR: 13-11/16" (13.6875")
RR: 13-3/4" (13.7500")

- Erik
=============
With the car still full of fuel and untouched since the preliminary corner weight session, time to pull out the tape measure for taking a look a the static ride height from the factory. Again, these values reflect stock (untouched / unmodified) numbers with all OEM suspension components attached.
Stats: Fuel tank 100% / OEM Continental run flat tires @ 35psi / non-sport OEM suspension
Methodology: Using a fixed point on each of the corners, measure the center of the wheel / hub to that certain location.
I already see questions brewing: how do I measure to center with a center cap that doesn't have a "middle point"?
Easy, simply measure the center cap diameter; divide that in half to determine the radius.
Then measure from your fixed point to the tangent edge of the center cap.
Take that measurement and add the radius for the result of static ride height.
Utlitizing a tape measure, I used the top of the wheel arches as my fixed point. Note: personally the acceptable dimensioning tolerance is +/- 1/32" of an inch; if you deem that more or less precision is required, adjust accordingly. Reference: The OEM R112 'Challenge' wheel center caps measure 2-1/8" (2.125") diameter, therefore the radius is 1-1/16" (1.0625").
Top of Arch to Tangent Edge of Center Cap:
LF: 13-1/16" (13.0625")
RF: 13" (13.0000")
LR: 12-5/8" (12.6250")
RR: 12-11/16" (12.6875")
Calculated OEM Ride Height - Center of Hub to Top of Arch:
LF: 14-1/8" (14.1250")
RF: 14-1/16" (14.0625")
LR: 13-11/16" (13.6875")
RR: 13-3/4" (13.7500")

- Erik
noise
Hi guys,
I got my kw v1 on my 07 MCS for about 5k clicks now and I'm still getting some sqeaky noise, especially on bumps. I think they're from the front and the mechanics said it's probably cause it's at the tallest setting (spring compressed max). He recommends that I lower it more so the spring should have more space. However, says we can't do that at the moment cause it'll rub the rims (I'm running oem R90 with 215 tires) and he suggests that I get spacers.
Any of you fellow kw owners running oem rims needed spacers? If so, what mm do you need? I appreciate your help, thanks!
I got my kw v1 on my 07 MCS for about 5k clicks now and I'm still getting some sqeaky noise, especially on bumps. I think they're from the front and the mechanics said it's probably cause it's at the tallest setting (spring compressed max). He recommends that I lower it more so the spring should have more space. However, says we can't do that at the moment cause it'll rub the rims (I'm running oem R90 with 215 tires) and he suggests that I get spacers.
Any of you fellow kw owners running oem rims needed spacers? If so, what mm do you need? I appreciate your help, thanks!
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