First I'd like to thank this site and those who post here. Tons of info from both vendors and members. Definitely the best Mini forum. Now to my dilemma.

I bought a set of B & G springs for my R57. I went with them because they claimed a 1 inch drop and I got the springs at Carlise for about half off prices I've seen online.

The install went fairly easy about 6 hours in my garage (with the help of some DIY's here on NAM). I also installed a set of ALTA Lower Control Arms and ALTA Front & Rear Adjustable Sway bar Links.

I probably didn't need the ALTA parts since my drop was an inch or so but I got them here from a member who purchased them and never installed. The price was too good a deal to pass.

Before I installed the springs I measured the height from the floor to the center of the fender using a three foot ruler. The front went from 25 3/4 to 24 1/2. I got about a 1 1/4 drop in the front. The rear went from 26 1/16 to 24 7/8. I got about 1 3/16 of a drop there.

Although I didn't want more than an inch drop, I'm happy with the outcome. I drove the car about 30 miles with no squeaks or noises of any kind and as for as I could tell it did not bottom out either.

I then went to Firestone and got a lifetime alignment (had a coupon). I asked for as much negative camber in the front explaining the towers offered little adjustment (I removed the pins) and -1.5 in the rear. I also wanted as close to zero toe for both front and rear.

It was late in the day (near closing time) and though he was helpful the guy didn't really follow my instructions for the rear. I didn't bother to complain much because the front camber was way off and I knew I had to come back. The best the guy could do to balance the front was -1.2 on the left and 0.2 on the right. see pic of alignment specs and pics of shock towers

I took a chance and installed the springs without adjustable plates because some folks got lucky and was able to get their alignment to -0.05 to -0.07. I wasn't lucky.

As far as I know the car has never been in an accident (purchased new 6 months ago). I say as far as I know because I was stationed at a dock and have seen cars wrecked while taking off shipments.

Anyway what else would cause such a difference in the front?

Could the sub-frame be that off? Is their adjustments in the sub-frame?

From what I can tell I don't have a choice but to install adjustable plates.
Will I have issues with spring clearances?

Has anyone had this problem? Any advice?

Thanks again guys

 

Check the top of your strut towers inside the engine bay. One of them is going to be slightly mushrooming. Look at both from a squatting position so you're looking across the top of the tower from the side. Is one side domed up a little more than the other? If so, there's your problem. Do a search on mushrooming and you'll get all the info you need to fix it. Feel free to PM me also if you have any questions, I've already been through this.

Chad

 

I overlooked this because the car was and still is new but I guess anything can happen. I'll give it a look

 

I'd not heard of mushrooming being much of a problem on the Gen II cars. Is it happening with them, too??

 

OK I gave them a look and it doesn't appear that to be the problem but I'm no expert.

I used a ruler and a level along with the method above and there seems to be no difference from right to left. As far as I can see none of the metal looks dented, dinged or uneven.

Remember the car is new with only 700 miles on it. Unless the car was wrecked at the dealer ( I didn't see any evidence of repair) or was one of those cars that was screwed up on the assembly, I don't see the towers as being the problem. I could be wrong again I'm no expert.

Croth - is your car a genII? How did you know you had mushrooming?

 

Mushrooming is not really a problem on R56.

I think you could let the car settle a little more, perhaps another 100 miles or so.

Also, loosen and shove the bolts toward the engine for both sides of the strut tower. One side seems to be toward the engine (passenger or first photo) and the other seems to be toward the fender (driver or second photo).

I also would go to another alignment shop, one that does more high performance cars. Check out some of them in your area at tirerack.com using the installation tab.

 

Both struts are pushed toward the driver side (left side). Maybe a little hard to see in the pics.

If I push the driver side inward it would give me more negative camber. At the moment it is set at -1.2 degrees.

The passenger side is already pushed inward as far as it can go. This side is set at 0.1 degrees.

I guess I could drive the car some more to let the springs settle. How would these settings affect tire wear?

The issue isn't with the shop. The manager is an older guy in his 40's and into muscle cars (not that thats old - I'm in that range). I also asked him if aligning the car to my spec would be a problem. He said no. I've taken three of my four cars there - all work done with no problems. Two of the techs are into modding cars. One has an evo the other a spec nissan.

The tech I got put allot of time on the front and when he showed me the results I told him I'd look into it and just come back. He didn't spend much time on the rear because it was closing time. I could have made an issue about the rear but I knew I was coming back. Thats why I got the lifetime alignment.

 

Perhaps you should check your install. It does not seem right to get that little negative camber.

When you lower the car, you will get more negative camber.

It should be OK to drive the car 100 miles or so. The wear on the tires should not be much given the distance.

 

I thought and have read that only the rear is affected by lowering the mini.

I'm not sure how I could have done anything wrong on install but I recheck that next


I meant the rear on the 07'+ are adjustable and the front have very little adjustability

 

Perhaps look the the front suspension hats.

 

Sorry if I sound dumb but what exactly am I looking for? If their bent or deformed?

 

That the springs are seating properly on the top hats and that the end ofthe spring is snug against the indent.

 

Ok thanks, I'm going to pull them off the car tomorrow.
Any thoughts on the sub-frame

 

Ok I spent a few hours Sunday working on the car.

First I took some measurements to reference the current position of the front wheels using the old school method (a 2 foot square - three foot strait ruler - string and a small weight) .

After I had all my measurements, I removed the front strut assemblies and re-did them. I also took my dremel with a high speed carbine bit and extended the elongated holes inward (on the passenger side) 3/16 of an inch. Before re-assembly I put a little of clear rust free on the area and let it dry.
I re-installed the struts and set to my measurements. Drove the car to test for problems - all was good.

Took the car back to Firestone today for re-alignment. This time with better results. The tech was able to adjust the front camber to -0.09 on both sides. Front Toe to 0.07 on both sides. The rear camber he set to -1.4 on both sides and the rear toe to 0.05 (left) 0.06 (right).

The tech said there was more room (spring clearing the shock tower on the passenger side) to dremel inward if I wanted more negative. I told him I would think about it. I'd like to drive it around for a while and see how it feels.

So I took the car for a nice ride and it drove great.

Anyway I don't know why or what caused the front camber to be off by 1 degree. After reading many posts I know I'm not the only person who's had this problem. I chose the dremel solution (like others have) because I'm not sure I want adjustable plates. Some say they give a harsher ride and more noise. Both I don't want. I also spoke to several people who develop the plates and two have confirmed the redesign of the shock towers (at least for the R57) does not allow room to adjust the allen screws from atop. Some folks have cut their towers but I'd rather not. So for now I must compromise.

see post about cutting shock towers
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uspension.html

 

I guess the lesson learned is to get it to a shop BEFORE doing any mods? All I want is more camber, so I don't know how much or where to grind the holes. It also says the fixed offset plates would only be good if we were symmetrical to start with.

I found I could do toe real well on the garage floor, but my attempts to measure camber were not totally successful. Time to try again.

 

Just checked again. My protractor says I am dead on zero at all four corners. This is a good thing. So a bit of filing I should be able to get 1.4 or 1.5 out of the front. Cool. Then the big bucks is saved tor the rear.

 

Other folks have posted that before buying camber plates (springs too I guess) it would be a good idea to remove the plastic pin (07+) and push in the strut assembly inward, then have the camber checked. This way you know how off if any the camber would be from side to side. At least this way you would know which plates fit your need. Fixed or adjustable.

I guess the same would apply if you wanted to know in which direction one would need to extend the holes. Although for the most part I've read that the direction to dremel would be inward. In my case it was the passenger side only. And from the pics I've seen online the passenger side has been the side with less camber.

Ive been looking into camber plates but my research had led to few if any options. I don't want more noise or road feel/vibration than stock and I don't want to cut the shock tower opening to access the top bolts for adjustment.

see camber plates post for more info
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3053156

 

In my survey , the K-MAC is available with poly. It uses the three mounting bolts to clamp the plate, so no clearance problem for adjustment. So it says.

THat would have been my pick after hearing about others coming apart. I will see what I can do with the pin out, get the Bilsteins on and go form there.

 

But who knows - some companies say one thing and then when you get the parts its another. I'm waiting for more input from folks who have them. I think the best bet is what you said. Pin out and work from there.

K-MAC
http://www.iapdirect.com/product.php...6&cat=0&page=1

 

Hogrules,

You new front camber numbers actually look fine. It should give you a decent turn in.

 

Oh my gosh! You are suggesting some companies exhort "Madison Ave Engineering!" Shock and dismay.

Just think how scary it was when we only had the grapevine at the race track for what vendors are good and which are not. There are so many good folks serving Mini's, and we can actually find them. I would never want to go back to planning a hot rod without the internet again.

 

It took some work to get them that way. Dremel and some Patience. Overall I'm Happy with the setup (B&G springs, 19mm Alta Sway-bar, Alta Control Arms & Sway-bar End-links). Would I do it again? Not sure? One of the reasons I went this route was the cost.

All the parts I got were new at almost half their cost. An incentive? Yes!! But If I were ever get another Mini I would save for coilovers. I say this because after driving the car a bit more it does feel like some shock travel and some ride comfort was lost. I knew this going in but again I was willing to sacrifice for now.

I also have the TSW X Brace, the JCW Strut Brace and got rid of the run-flats for Hankook Ventus V12 EVO's 215/45/17 ---- The ride is overall better than stock

Thanks again guys for all your input

 

I have a big hoonking die grinder. Not afraid of a little steel! Granted, I was a lot younger, but my first tower grind was with a rat-tail on a 75 Corolla.
My shocks came today, so I know what I am doing this weekend.

 

I agree with you on that TVRGEEK. I wouldn't want to do this without the Internet. Allot of info from allot of great folks here. But I do remember the days of going to shows, meets and race tracks to get first hand reviews and experience. Although it's still good to get out there but boy it's definitely allot easier and faster this way.

Oh and just to give you an example of what you never know what your gonna get see the past post on this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ver-fo-me.html