Suspension Identify Drivers/Passengers Side IE Camber Plates
Identify Drivers/Passengers Side IE Camber Plates
I'm in the middle of installing a set if IE fixed camber plates in a 2005 MCS. The problem is I can't identify which plate goes on the driver's side, and which goes on the passenger side. Below are pictures of the plates. Does the straight edge go toward the engine, or vice versa? Can anyone help? Thanks.
Looking at top of plates.

Looking at bottom of plates:
Looking at top of plates.
Looking at bottom of plates:
I figured it out. The straight edge goes towards the engine. It was quite obvious when I pushed on the camber plate from underneath the wheel well and looked from the top side and saw the bearing closer inboard.
You got it right. . .
Jeff, it isn't obvious which which way the Ireland fixed plates go from underneath. But just as you did, give a look from the top to confirm that the top of the struts are inboard of center, and you are golden. 
Do get an alignment, because the toe setting will be way off. For general street use (and some tire life), I suggest "0" toe in front. (Stock is toe-in, and serious autocrossers with tire budgets like a bit of toe-out.)
Enjoy the corners all over again!
Do get an alignment, because the toe setting will be way off. For general street use (and some tire life), I suggest "0" toe in front. (Stock is toe-in, and serious autocrossers with tire budgets like a bit of toe-out.)
Enjoy the corners all over again!
Looks good
Some additional comments on alignment
Anytime you change ride height or add front or rear suspension upgrade parts you should check and adjust alignment.
In as little as 6 to 12 months alignment can need adjustment due to wear and tear especially on bad roads.
For tire wear front toe is critical. Too much toe in or out will wear tires faster and feather the tread blocks eventually. Toe in is factory spec and helps for daily driving handling that is stable at cruising speeds but a little numb feeling compared to slight toe out which feels more agile and responsive up to a point.
Zero toe is in between and is usable.
Fixed camber plates will give you more negative camber up front but they are not adjustable which means right or left could be more or less than the other side. More negative camber in front helps with cornering at higher speeds, it doesn't really come into play for daily street driving at normal speeds.
Rear camber should be adjusted if possible (adjustable lower rear control arms or the stock adjusters on later model MINIs) to be less negative than the fronts or about -1.2 to -1.4 degrees. Too much negative rear camber will wear the inner edges of the tires and increase understeer which is not needed for a MINI.
Some additional comments on alignment
Anytime you change ride height or add front or rear suspension upgrade parts you should check and adjust alignment.
In as little as 6 to 12 months alignment can need adjustment due to wear and tear especially on bad roads.
For tire wear front toe is critical. Too much toe in or out will wear tires faster and feather the tread blocks eventually. Toe in is factory spec and helps for daily driving handling that is stable at cruising speeds but a little numb feeling compared to slight toe out which feels more agile and responsive up to a point.
Zero toe is in between and is usable.
Fixed camber plates will give you more negative camber up front but they are not adjustable which means right or left could be more or less than the other side. More negative camber in front helps with cornering at higher speeds, it doesn't really come into play for daily street driving at normal speeds.
Rear camber should be adjusted if possible (adjustable lower rear control arms or the stock adjusters on later model MINIs) to be less negative than the fronts or about -1.2 to -1.4 degrees. Too much negative rear camber will wear the inner edges of the tires and increase understeer which is not needed for a MINI.
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