Is it bad to drive my car with a completly ripped front strut mount!!!

 

Interesting. Any pics?
Honestly, not that big of a deal to repair something like that. Need to find someone who can fab and weld.
Don't drive the car though!

 

If you mean the rubber portion of the strut mount, welcome to the club. Plan on replacing them every 30k to 50k miles, and more often if you run lowering springs. It's not at all a good idea to drive on ripped rubber.

 

If you need to replace the top rubber strut bushing because it has ripped, you might want to think of a better replacement such as the IE Fixed Camber Plates or some adjustable Camber Plates such as from Hotchkis.

 

This happened to me in the warranty period (ripped 3/4 of the way around on passenger side). I called the dealership and they said it was OK to drive it in (75 miles). I did baby it, though.

 

Good time to get a set of camber plates, or if it's just your daily driver you can go back to oem.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/home.php?cat=288

 

Miniguru already ordered! came today {thank you} all I need is my M7 strut bar??

 

Bar shipped

 

Thanks!

 

I damaged mine a few years ago as well. I was taking the bends a little to hard. I switched them out for Ireland Camber plates.

 

Started the process to replace the mounts, with IE fixed camber plates. Also going back to the stock springs. Had some H&R's in but the roads here in Boston are so bad I need to bring the car back up to stock ride hight. Did the back today and removed the fronts, tomorrow switch the stock junked mounts with the IE camber plates and put the front back together. I also banged out some mild mushrooming I had, Alot easier than I thought I did the well known hunk O 2x4 and my big O'le hammer and in like 5mins done!!!

 

nice pics on your website, I'll be needing a set of IE plates and struts etc

 

Update !!!So I swap out the front springs,and add the IE camber plates. Can anyone tell me why the driver side is always more of a pain in the but than the passenger side! So when I was done I took it for a test ride and I heard a knocking in the back and when I got back it looks like my exhaust is closer to the bumper the before the switch back to stock springs. It looks like some how in the process of the job the exhaust moved? Any input from the masses would be helpful. Did not go back under the car to check yet I will tomorrow an post any findings.

 

sorry can't help you out with the exhaust problem. But isn't there a reason for the OEM rubber isolators? To isolate the vibration of the road and tires? Does the aftermarket ( for example ireland fixed camber plates) have any rubber?(I don't think so) .If they don't ,will they transmit vibration through the cars body to the persons in the car?

 

Actually they do. And as a point of interest the bearing and rubber bushing that are used come from a BMW Z4.

Hope this helps...

 

Did some research with the exhaust, and ruled it out as the source! So I pulled out the left rear shock and spring unit, and tightened the top nut again, while makening sure the spring was fully compressed and that seemed to do the trick! Also while under the car made sure the sway bar end link & bushing bolts were tight, also control arm ,and sub frame bolts too. But I think it was the top nut on the shock that was knocking FIXED woohoo

 

The IE fixed camber plates have more rubber, and seem to run quieter than, the stock strut-top bushings.

 

I shroomed even with camber plates and a strut bar.....

 

Wow!!! MINI NS do you drive in a pothole covered city like I do in here in Boston? The roads here in boston are "BAD", its hard to enjoy driving my mini here while dodging pothole every 20yrds, even the highways around boston are covered in potholes. The Pothole that I think murdered my stock mount or at least finished it off was on 95N !!!