Can ANYONE help me with this swaybar endlink discussion?

Some people say it's definitely needed, some say it's needed when lowering more than 40mm. I didn't feel like buying them so I just tried it with stock endlinks and have had no problems.

Here's the thing....I'm using VMAXX on a custom suspension where I can raise and lower the ride height at will so i can test the clearances at multiple heights easily. The endlink only hits the control arm at HIGH ride heights.....as you lower it, it gains clearance from the control arm.

Am I missing something here? Are the warnings about 40mm+ drops about it binding or running into clearance issues somewhere else? I've watched our suspension at various heights and TO ME it seems like we gain clearance as we go lower.

I'd like to change them out for shorter ones if they are keeping me from going lower or if they're binding.

 

Rally: On my test set of V-Maxx, when installed on my R56 MCS, the front swaybar drop link brackets on the struts were positioned significantly lower on the body than stock. When installed, the stock drop-links would not fit, as they were about an inch too long, and the bottom would have ended up being inside the front control arm. Shorter drop links were mandatory for my install. I'm not sure if the Cooper or Clubman uses shorter front drop links, but even then you said your drop links still contact your control arms, which is unsafe at best. During high-G cornering, the inside wheel will lift and smash the drop link against the control arm, most likely bending it and creating significant weight jacking.

It doesn't matter how much you lower the car, the drop links must clear all other components throughout the travel range. The suspension does not stay in one static position, so it needs clearance in all postions to be safe. In some parts of the country where there are big undulations or dirt roads [or at an auto-x], full travel is used regularly. Thus, shorter drop links are mandatory on at the very least the R56 MCS with standard suspension.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

But I'm right in thinking that you do in fact gain clearance when the suspension becomes more compressed (or lower), right?.....so the whole "if you're going to lower the car 40mm+" thing isn't the actual guideline?

Is the control arm the main concern or does it experience clearance issues elsewhere?

The only time i've actually seen it come in contact with the control arm is when the car is up on jackstands and the suspension is hanging and even then it just barely contacts it.

 

The control arm to swaybar drop link clearance is the main concern here. The fact your drop link touches your control arm during full droop is unacceptable and has no bearing on the ride height within that setup travel range. If you shortened the travel, or shifted it upward, then there may not be a clearance issue, however out of the box the V-Maxx's bracket height is too low for stock drop links.

You can't just have clearance during part of the suspension travel [like at ride height], you simply must have clearance and freedom of travel throughout the entire stroke, including full droop.

Make sense?

 

Yah makes sense...just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything else.

 

How do you rate the VMAXX Ryan?

 

They're quite good as a proper technical take on the typical lowering spring. They offer decent ride and handling with none of the harshness and mushroomed strut tower problems of lowering springs. My full review will be available soon in the next issue of NAM Alliance.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Look forward to it!

 

Rally, i got the info from their website. It's in their application guide. They say that all MINI's, no matter the drop need to run a fixed length stabilizer-connection bolt. Download the guide and they have a picture of it. Might make more sense to you than it does to me.
http://www.hiltrac.com/v-maxxwebsitegb.html

 

Yah, I know...I discussed it with them before I ordered and they said they would send me some once they made them. I was just curious to figure out where the actual issue was arising.

 

oh. Never mind then.

 

Do you need to change both front and rear drop links?

 

It was still a good read though, thank you

Just the front ones.

 

Like Rally said, only the front drop links need to be changed to something shorter. This is different than most coil-overs that keep the drop link bracket in the same place as stock, which need a longer drop link when you lower the car a bunch. The net effect is to keep the sway bar pivot arm close to parallel to the ground to achieve reasonably linear sway bar response. Ideally, you'd swap out the rear drop links also [make them shorter] to bring the rear sway bar back parallel to the ground. It's not required, but doing so will make the car more linear and predictable at the limit.

 

Think I am ordering these tomorrow, got a deal I don't think I can pass up. I am expecting a pleasant ride and handling improvement over my Mach-V springs, plus I really want to tuck tire.

 

These are on a one day only special for $454! 1.866.533.1777.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...2-17-08-a.html

 

so i plan on buying these vmaxx coilovers for my r50. i rea the posts on the spacer issue. so my cars wheels and suspension is completely stock. by installing vmaxx coilovers, will i need spacers? my tires are 195/55/r16.

ive only had my '03 r50 for a few months now, so i dont know nearly as much as all you guys. im still learning tho!

 

The drop links are in stock and included at no charge in every kit. We have our super sale price of $454 running through Monday. I'm out sick and can't edit the Web site so have a ball ordering at that price. If I run out I'll post up here. Pete, Stratmosphere. 1.866.533.1777.

 

Excellent deal and great vendor. :tu:

 

According to the review on the NAM magazine, the coilovers take away some handling of the Mini over stock. I thought the lower stance from coilovers would INCREASE handling(like less body roll due to lower center of gravity, etc.). What gives?

 

I think you are reading the wrong thing into the comments made.

For instance

In the review Ryephile compared them to what he felt was a direct competitor, the KW V1. In that regard they did not handle as well. However when one looks at the price points of both one can understand where the difference comes from.

 

Yah no surprise here....if you're getting these for all-out track performance to lower your lap times, you're crazy These are meant for a specific market. They're a great option for those people who want to lower their daily drivers for some nice street driving at a low price. These aren't meant for the people who are out every weekend trying to shave a few tenths off last week's lap times.

 

Thanks Rally. I'm sure there are many that feel the car is a bit rough every day and certainly it's too high. Looking forward to more customer feedback! Pete, Stratmosphere. 1.866.533.1777.

 

i have never used these on any of my cars, but have been in an MK4 R32 with Vmaxx coilovers, and the ride was great. Installed a set on an MK5 GTI, haven't found anything below the expectations from a coilver system, and I look for things.

 

So, ive been looking into these, and it seems common that one fault is bounciness. Can we clarify what bouncy is. Is bouncy a soft, Buick-like ride, or is bouncy used to describe the setup as so stiff that it feels as if the wheels are bouncing off of the pavement on bad surfaces?