Please, I searched for a basic instruction on what is involved in suspension
(basic, like there are struts, some kind of links? Some other stuff? )

Is there a beginner's thread I can't find?

With 66K miles on my 2002 MCS, I'm having a really rough ride on bumps,
sometimes I bottom out. I can tell my suspension is shot.

I have an Alta rear swaybar, running on 17" Toyo Proxes.
I do plan to downgrade to a more comfortable tire when I replace them,
Although maybe it is the uncomfortable suspension that is the problem...

I have NO idea what all is involved in suspension,
what pieces there are, what I should be looking to replace/upgrade.

I have done a search, but it is all beyond my understanding,
which is obviously nil..and I'm a daily driver, aggressive
when I get the chance

I'm confused about what's involved in suspension more than struts,
and what else could be shot.
My local MINI dealer has proven to be unreliable and uninformed, so
as usual, I have to figure it out for myself, and except for Randy's pulley
I have installed everything else on my car myself.

"Nuff said, please point me in the right direction. thanks

 

For the most part struts and springs and upper strut bearings are the basic parts.

Struts are probably worn out or getting close at 66k. That is the black part in the picture below borrowed from k-huevo.

The upper strut bearings might also be worn out. You can't see those in the pic below but they go at the top of the spring and attach the strut + spring assembly to the strut towers on the chassis.

Springs usually last a long time so I doubt those are the cause of your suspension woes. I have a set of JCW springs I'm selling if you are looking for a good spring.

 

Think about replacing your coilovers with a set of Megan's. You will be able to adjust height and ride comfort. http://www.autoxcooper.com/megan.html about 1/2 down for more info or PM me.

 

So, you're out of warranty as well. You'll probably be not surprised on how much the dealer wants for the stock bits. So go aftermarket. Find a local mini group and take rides with different suspension set ups.

My ride with oem struts was getting worse after 50k. I went for Koni FSD's. Kept the stock springs. Went with fixed camber plates for replacing the upper strut bearings. no adjust, no fuss, no muss. Still at stock height, but additional front camber. Better grip through fast sweepers. The only other strut recommendation is Bilstein SP. if you want to spend more, you will have more options.

More adjustability means more suspension sorting.

 

Coilovers usually result in a stiffer ride...

The Koni FSDs are great shocks to pair with the stock springs. Especially when ride quality is priority.

 

Not mentioned but also take a look at your Lower Front Rear control arm bushing. I've gone through three of these while under warrenty and then moved to Poly bushings when the warrenty wore out.

 

Thanks to all for some great information.

I will take heyduard's suggestion and try out
suspension of my local mini gurus.

Thanks for the replies,
Penelope I will check back twith you re: JCW coils if that fits
with where I'm going

Thanks to all for a great 1011

Jenni

 

there are good graphics of generic stuff at "the car bibles" web site. We have MacPherson strut up front, and a trailing arm rear (yeah, I know, BMW likes to call it a "multi-link" suspension, but it's still a trailing arm geometry.)

At your mileage, if it's gotten worse over time, I'd be betting on the rubber control arm bushing and struts, with my money on the control arm bushings.

If you were happy how it was and don't want to spend tons of money, you can get new bushings for the control arms, and buy stock struts used from someone who's upgraded the suspension. If you want to improve your ride, there are a million ways to skin that cat, some that you will like more than others. I'm sure there are a thousand of opionions that will be offered if you want them...

Other wear points in the front suspension are:
Ball joints (two on each side)
End links (they get loose and rattle more than cause bottoming)
Upper strut guide (the rubber can get tired or tear)
Upper spring perch (these have cracked on some cars)
Sway bar bushings (these contribute to noise if they go, more than ride issues)

I think that covers it....

Matt

 

The bushings in the rear control arms?

 

There are two big rubber bushing at the back of the front control arm (one each side) that DO go bad. This leads to some clanking (if it gets really bad) but before that you loose toe, camber and caster control.

Matt

 

Ouch! Thanks for the clarification. More parts to check.

 

You guys come through, as always

If I get my ideal suspension plan, but I probably won't be able to do it
all at once,

I could start with struts and control arm bushings?
(and replace anything else with obvious wear...)

and then upgrade in sections

if say the ball joints are worn but I don 't do them initially,
will I just wear the newer parts?

If so, maybe I"ll have to get this diagnosed...then do the
upgrades myself...

 

you need to use a hydrolic press, or a BMW tool that allows for exhange while parts are mounted in the car. If you don't have the magic tool, then you have to drop the subframe. It's really easy to do the ball joints at the same time, but you don't have to.

Get the diagnosis (most you can actually do yourself), find out where your actual problem is, then see what's easy to replace at the same time...

Matt

 

Although it is a lot of work, I replaced rear lower control arms, rear trailing arm bushings, inner and outer ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, front swaybar budshings and replaced the Power flex LCA bushing with a new Powerflex unit. Along with a new JCW suspension kit, four new swaybar endlinks and new rear Webb swaybar bar bushings, the car feels fantastic - as it should!


As an aside, would some of my friends here please use jack stands and not wood and concrete? I would like to feel we're all in this for fun and that we'll all be around for a long, long while. By over-rated jackstands and use these on level ground. Jack stands are safer!

 

I was thinking the same thing myself.