I recently tried to put my rear megan racing coilovers on my 03MCS but it seems like there is something missing i used the top of my old strut so that i could mount my megan coil up but i dont think i mounted it up right does anyone have and pictures or any advice as to how to mount the top of the stock strut to the megan coilover. Also the rear coilovers came with 2 of the same bolt on the top of each coilover am i supposed to use both and if so how?

 

I believe Megans should have their own strut tops. They are a complete bolt in unit.

 

megans should have their own tops already attached. should be a straight swap front and rear.

 

The Megan's come with everything you need already attached. There is nothing to add or mess up. There is a right and left. I don't understand what you mean on the rears coming with 2 bolts? They come with NO Bolts, you use the same 2 bolts that come off your OEM units to attach them on at the top.

 

I just got a set. Mine came with the cables for the rear dampers. $880 with free shipping from Megan racings website. Will I need a ball joint tool to get them on and old ones off?

 

Has anyone figured out how to get the Megan's to go lower . I currently have mine maxed out as far as low. The spring preload is where I want it and there is still about 10 threads left between the lockrings. But the threaded part has bottomed out in the body. I just need 1 more in of low to be happy.

 

Can anyone happen to tell me what the diameter of the lower section of the rear coilovers are? As in the housing that bolts into the trailing arm. Not the threaded portion, but the lower portion. If anyone could tell me the diameter I would greatly appreciate it!! Thanks.

 

saving this for later in case I decide to keep the clubman. In which case I will be lowering it, thanks!

 

Hey everyone so I have had my Megan co for about 5 month now and love them the one problem I am having now is when I turn the sterling wheel one way or the other I hear like a spring binding noise. I've tried to make them both un compressed while the can is in the air then tried having them compressed still up on jacks, is there a right amount t of compression I should have them at
Also I should mention the I am also all they down on the co have about a turn n a half till full drop front and back

 

What you are hearing is spring bind from having the spring portion having too much preload. My Megan coils do the same thing but its only every once and a while. You could try to change the preload of the spring and that should fix your problem. If you like the preload where it is at then you could try greasing the top and bottom of the spring perches. I was thinking about doing this myself but have not got the time to do so.

 

Try these. It should solve the issue http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-7888-109

 

Anyone with the Megan's should read this are some point. Pertains to most any coilover though..

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs...37&subject=CDK: Why do I hear noise from coilovers?

 

N2MINI thanks for posting the link, that explains it all

 

I have seen that. A LOT of good info in there. I found it when I was looking for the spring bind info for my sons Megan's. That's also when I found the info about the barrings. As the grease will need to be reapplied.

 

Good read. I would think that anyone looking into a suspension setup such as this would understand that they need some regular mainteance, but the rewards are worth it. I should have mine completely installed and set as of tomorrow. I can't really believe that my R50 build is nearly complete!! These coilovers were the final piece of the puzzle and will be a welcime addition to a non daily driven car. Gonna run 2it degrees of negative camber up front and run flat in the rear to start. It should be a fierce setup for sure

 

I'm currently running -2.0 front and -1.0 rear and have put right at 36,000 miles on Riken Raptor Tires with a Tread Wear Rating of 300.. My best setup yet, plus got more milage out of tires since putting Megan's on 5 years ago..
I flip the tires over once about half way worn on the inside so I then can rotate them to the other side of the car...

 

I know this is old and you probably have solved the problem or moved on to different coilovers. I'm reading this, trying to decide if I want Megans. Coming from a MX racing background, I couldn't help but think that increasing the preload in the front might help a little. It will help keep the shock up in a softer part of the stroke, where it can better absorb those bumps, instead of plowing through the midstroke, and feeling harsh.

 

So, here's where I'm at: I have an '05 S with about 82,000 miles on it. I've noticed that the ride is getting pretty harsh, so I know my struts are shot. There's no wallowing, but the ride has gotten worse over the miles. I'm now hearing a loud squeaking sound out of the right strut tower when I go around corners. I looked at the top mounts and both are broken in the front. If I put my hand on the body where the struts are bolted to and someone turns the wheel, I can feel the vibration from the squeaking. I figure, I might as well spend a little extra and get Megans or BCs, as apposed to replacing all 4 struts and top mounts. I have always wanted to do that anyway. I have some questions:

1. If I'm only going to lower 1" and I want to be conservative on the camber, it's my daily driver, can I wait and get adjustable rear arms in the future?

2. With the above parameters, will I have to do any trimming to the front mounting holes in order to properly tighten things up?

3. I really want adjustability in the rear. Is drilling for adjustment cables a bad idea in any way? I Also have the OEM amp back there.

3.5 Do the adjustment cables have to stick up through the interior, or can I keep them short and access them through the little doors on each side?

4. Are there any other parts or anything else I need to know. Money is a little tight right now, so I want to do it as cheaply as I can.

5. I'm running 205x55x15s with 40 offset wheels, will I need any spacers in the front wheels?

Thanks for all your help,
Shawn

 

My adjusters pop thru in the boot area.. I'd defently cut for them since you have them might as well use them right!!.. You probably can route them to the area you are talking about. You can get by without the adj. rear control arms for how ever long you like, you'll just be wearing the inside of your tire more then currently.. You could always have you alignment checked after lowering it and see how bad it is. My rear is at -1.0 and doesn't wear too bad on the tires as long are you rotate and flip them about have way thru their wear..
I didn't have to trim anything on my car and I'm over 1'' drop all around easy..

 

1. You should be fine. I ran mine down about 1.5 for a long time and just got them after i went lower. Never had an issue.

2. Everything should bolt up and not need any modifications. If you want to adjust front camber the plates that come with the Megan's and adjustable. You could slot out the tops if you need more adjustment (just to access the plate screws. Just have the alignment guys mess with them.

3. Nope. I have them in mine and it's just a little hole.

3.5 you can bring them up inside the access panels. Just move the wires out of the way when you drill them.

4. Nope. The Megan's are a complete bolt in system

5. I don't think you would have an issue. Especially if you're only dropping an inch. You won't be tucking the tires.

 

^ Thanks!

 

I have been running my Megan's for 3 months as far as quality goes they are really good but I am in the stance scene and they just don't go low enough. So I am selling my Megan's in order to get vmaxx coils. If anyone is interested let me know with a PM. Looking to get 600 price is negotiable thanks
Ishoelaceee

 

I'm running Megans and 1" drop with 17" Breytons and 40 series tires and it rides rough as a lumber wagon. I feel every pavement abraision and can't imagine hitting a pothole. My tech says spring rates are a big factor ... I bought these from a NAM member almost new so don't know the spring rate. Anyone have any info on how to get a better ride. I've heard that the KW is much better ride but is it springs or the actual adjustable shock?

 

1. If I'm only going to lower 1" and I want to be conservative on the camber, it's my daily driver, can I wait and get adjustable rear arms in the future?

-You don't absolutely need the rear arms. It will save your tires though in the longrun.

2. With the above parameters, will I have to do any trimming to the front mounting holes in order to properly tighten things up?

-On my 2002 MCS, they fit fine. To adjust camber, I would need to remove the coil over though since the shock tower blocks/limits access.

3. I really want adjustability in the rear. Is drilling for adjustment cables a bad idea in any way? I Also have the OEM amp back there.

-I removed the rear interior panels to make sure I didn't drill into anything electrical. I ran the extenders up and routed them so I can get to them through the rear pop-out panels for storing the emergency kits.

3.5 Do the adjustment cables have to stick up through the interior, or can I keep them short and access them through the little doors on each side?

-see #3. I routed mine to the little doors.

4. Are there any other parts or anything else I need to know. Money is a little tight right now, so I want to do it as cheaply as I can.

-An alignment is always recommended.

5. I'm running 205x55x15s with 40 offset wheels, will I need any spacers in the front wheels?

-Not sure on this since I have 17s.