Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension M7 USS...riv nuts went poo poo

Old Dec 19, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #1  
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M7 USS...riv nuts went poo poo

So I went to install my USS and got to the part where you have to install the riv nuts. Well I got them in no prob (even put red threadlocker on them), but when I went to put the bolts in no prob the passanger side went flawless... not drivers side oh let me tell you im pissed I stared to thread the nut and got it about 1/4 the way and the damn riv nut just started to spin! None the less about two hours of fighting it and tring to figure something out I had to take the front portion the brace off...

NOW that riv nuts our out the picture any one of some cold weld epoxy that is PERMANANT! I know there is jb weld, but is there something stronger that can take the abuse... LET ME KNOW it seems that a cold weld epoxy is the best thing to do....
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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JB Weld is the way to go...it's very stong ..I have used it on many projects
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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Mine did the same thing and this is how I fixed it. I got a nut with a flaired head - the type that looks like it has a washer attached to and it has ridges on it to lock into the metal so it doesn't spin when tightening and also is larger than the hole created by the rivnut. I then fed a magnet with a flexible shaft through the hole where the rivnut was and fed it through unibody frame back to where the second hole was in the unibody frame. I then put the nut to the magnet and pulled it back through to the rivnut hole. Put a little JBweld on the nut to hold it in place and then attached the USS with a bolt. Works well and there is no worry that things will ever come loose. Hope this helps.
 

Last edited by bostoncooper; Dec 22, 2007 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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I am trying to get a mental picture here.....did you pull the bolt through the hole with the threads exposed and then thread to nut on ?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 04:50 PM
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I pulled the nut through the back hole until it was over the rivnut hole up inside the frame, then screwed the bolt up through the USS and into the nut.
 

Last edited by bostoncooper; Dec 20, 2007 at 04:52 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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thanks
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 03:23 AM
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From: Barksdale AFB, LA
Originally Posted by bostoncooper
Mine did the same thing and this is how I fixed it. I got a bolt with a flaired head - the type that looks like it has a washer attached to and it has ridges on it to lock into the metal so it doesn't spin when tightening and also is larger than the hole created by the rivnut. I then fed a magnet with a flexible shaft through the hole where the rivnut was and fed it through unibody frame back to where the second hole was in the unibody frame. I then put the nut to the magnet and pulled it back through to the rivnut hole. Put a little JBweld on the nut to hold it in place and then attached the USS with a bolt. Works well and there is no worry that things will ever come loose. Hope this helps.

I think I see what you did... I think I'll give this a go...
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 05:51 AM
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You should also photoshop that pic in your sig so that it says "performance" and not "preformance"

You prolly already know that but I had to say something it's been driving me nuts. lol.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 08:51 AM
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A simple solution

Phantom,
Can understand your frustration. Been there, done that. Tightening up the RivNut that last little bit turns out to be easy, provided you haven't accidentally stripped the threads or bent the insert. The method of putting a serrated lock washer between the "head" of the RivNut, followed by a nut, followed by a short stack of lubricated washers and then tightening up with a spare bolt, holding the nut steady and firm against the lock washer with another wrench, to cinch the RivNut up tight works great.

I've done this dozens of times and is simple and easy. I WOULD AVOID LOCTITE AND AVOID OVERTIGHTENING THE BOLT IN THE RIVNUT. The issue is that the RivNuts will "settle" after initial installation and "set" a little more in use. After a short period of use it is wise to retighten the bolt a bit. The threads let go at about 20 or 22 ft / lbs of torque. I keep my torque setting at about 18 ft / lbs for M8 bolts. If the threads do strip, just chisel the insert head off and pop in a new one. Tighten the same way.

Hope this helps,
John Petrich in Seattle
 

Last edited by Petrich; Dec 22, 2007 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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From: Barksdale AFB, LA
Originally Posted by succubus
You should also photoshop that pic in your sig so that it says "performance" and not "preformance"

You prolly already know that but I had to say something it's been driving me nuts. lol.
well this guy feels like an ***....
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 03:54 PM
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M7 stuff

Check out pg 2 of this guy's web site. He has pictures and story documenting the poor rivnut selection by M7 from 2006. It is surprising that M7 has not addressed that problem.

dpcars.net

Petrich, you'd appreciate his info on tracking the Mini, and his design thoughts on his home built race car.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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From: Car Nut Since 1987, Owner Since Fall 2005, Vendor Since Fall 2007
Cool site, great pics and video too. The M7 stuff is on page 2 of the MINI page.
 
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