Has anyone installed a larger rear bar and retained the OEM rear links? I realize you can retain them but also that the proper way is to replace them with beefier ones ie-Alta links. Mainly, I wanna know if there is a chance of them needing replacement any sooner on a larger bar compared to the OE bar. Helix's install day on the 11th is tempting but being somewhat low on funds is makinng me think if buying the Alta links are worth it.

 

Your fine with factory links.

 

Sweet. That install day at Helix is looking better and better because now I know that I don't have to spend the extra $120 on the Alta links.

 

the original links will work fine in addition to be the quiter ones.

 

I didn't even think about the noise issue. It really wouldn't bother me but heim jointed end links I'm sure would be a little louder.

 

I have the Ireland 22mm rear sway bar and under 15mph the links are somehow loud but at speed very smooth and responsive.

 

Alta's control arms have proven to be better than their endlinks. God I hate those endlinks. I had to locktite the jamnuts down and I keep snapping the heim joints in the front.

 

there is no issue w/ using the oem sway bar end link with a after market sway bar. But replaceing them w/ alta's or promini's will help prevent any possible porblems

 

and than,
Hhmmm, anyone else spread some light on any possible Alta link problems?

 

The Altas are fine for the rear, but a disaster for the front. As far as I'm concerned there is only one aftermarket link worth using in the front and that's the Powergrids.
Too much articulation in the fronts for a basic Hiem joint.

 

I got the WMS rear end links (have teflon coated aurora rods and a billet center)
and although they're overkill on my car, I've had no problems with them.
You do need to use couple washers (included) to space them out properly for clearance.
http://store.webbmotorsports.com/ind...products_id=70

 

If you are doing only street driving and you replace the rear sway bar with an adjustable stronger rear swaybar of any type then you are fine with the stock endlinks, there would be little reason to change them due to the upgrade on the rear swaybar itself.

If you are doing track driving on a regular basis or if you have broken a stock rear endlink during high speed driving after upgrading to a stiffer rear swaybar then a strong endlink would be OK.

The reason for adjustable endlinks are:
They are adjustable which allows for any length for the endlink which helps to eliminate preload on the front or rear swaybar when doing ride height adjustments after installing coilovers and when doing corner balancing (for track use and high speed driving events).
They are stronger than stock endlinks.
They do look nicer/beefier/more colorful than stock endlinks.
You like things that are fully adjustable- but for most people you'd be using the endlink at stock length.

Here's a thought-
Would one want to apply a preload to one endlink to give any bias to one side or an oval track situation? Maybe.
Remove both endlink connections, install one side with as short a length as possible and then after it's in then shorten it a little more to apply the preload. Then install the other endlink just to fit and tighten up.
You might be affecting corner weighting by doing that- you won't know unless you corner weigh using scales before and after this experiment.

 

...and, endlinks work in tension, not compression, FYI. If you lower your car, the length of an endlink is important because it determines the load placed on the swaybar bushings. So always try to replicate the factory swaybar end orientation by adjusting endlinks accordingly. Also, swaybar orientation can alter how a bar winds up left to right - you can get some asymetric windup either intentionally, or unintentionally...

I have factory endlinks with my Webb Bar. No problems so far. My Powergrids are on the shelf waiting for another day...