If you have a eliminated a rattle, please post THE SOURCE and THE FIX as a resource for others trying to locate those rattles.

PLEASE POST ONLY IF YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED AND ELIMINATED A RATTLE.


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1. THE REAR HATCH

Wrap the U-shaped connector on the hatch with 3-4 layers of electrical tape.


2. THE REAR SHELF

The rear shelf sometimes rattles against the rear interior panel (where the rear wiper mech. is housed) or the shelf feet are rattling. To fix this by some black adhesive felt (about 1/8" thick) used on furniture feet. Cut two 1"x3/8" pieces and apply them to the rubber feet stapled to the left and right underside edges of the shelf.


3. THE *****

The ***** on the cords sometimes hit the sides of the trunk and make an occassional "thunk" while turning. Simply unattach the cord from the hatch and tie a knot tight against the shelf. This will keep the ***** snug against the underside of the shelf.


4. REAR SEATS

Fold down your rear seats and see if the rattle goes away. If this is the case, wrap the connector with elecrical tape (just like the hatch rattle fix)


5. REAR SEAT BELTS

Keep them fastened.


6. BELOW CENTER CONSOLE

Remove the panel behind the cup holders. There is a loose wire and connector that maybe vibrating against the panel. Gather the wire an zip tie it so that it can still be accessed, but no longer rubs against the inside of the access panel.

 

So....vee meet agane....

Okay....Let me explain my story. I think it will help everyone out. I cannot stand rattles! Everytime I would go over a bump, no matter how small, I would hear this thumping (rattle) near the rear of the car. During one of my visits to the service department, I told them about this, and they placed some felt on the gas tank strap. Silly solution I thought, but it seemed to work. About 1 day later, I started hearing it again. So on my next trip, explained to them that I still heard it, they placed the felt on the other strap and Hallelujah! The rattle is gone!! The service tech told me that the straps come with felt, but many things will cause them to come loose and fall off. If you have this noise coming from your boot, have the service department check it out. The last noise I heard sounded like it was coming from the rear passenger side (as the first one did), but it was actually coming from the drivers side.

 

I was getting some creaky noises from the vent on the top of the dash. To fix:

1-Pop off the side panel on each side of the dash with the door open using a thin, small flat head screwdriver.
2-Remove the two Torx bolts attaching the front part of the dash (the textured part of the dash vs the rear smooth part) on each side.
3-Slide the front of the dash towards you and then lift up to remove.
4-The vent in the top of the dash is part of the dash top, but there is an oval opening underneath. Line the edges of the plastic opening with very thin felt.
5-Reinstall the dash top.

Basically the vent piece that attaches to the dash and the hole underneath that feeds it the air rattle/squeek under the right conditions...mainly when it's cold outside and the plastics have shrunk.

R

 

7. SUNROOF RATTLE

The sunroof rattle can be fixed by placing sticky backed velcro onto the back of the two flaps that pop up when the sunroof is open. If you look at those flaps they will have wear marks from where the spring loaded flaps vibrated against the leading edge of the sunroof. (from DiD)

 

WHat about creaky front seats when it rains????

Anyone?

 

>>WHat about creaky front seats when it rains????
>>
>>Anyone?

This may not be your issue, but I have found out that when my seat creaks, it's usually because the front seat is rubbing against the back seat. Move the seat forward just a tad and it should fix that problem immediately.

 

NOISE:
Creaking front seat.

FIX (Temporary):
Crank set height all the way up and down several times, then return to original position. I've found that this can quiet the creaking for as long as an hour of driving. [My dealer supposedly replaced the "seat frame" after I complained about the problem, but this did nothing to quiet the noise.]

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NOISE:
Rattling B-pillar cover. Thought at first that this was related to the seat belt anchor point, but found that the passenger side cover was a bit loose and was rattling against the forward edge of the rear window. Very annoying.

Fix:
I snipped a 1"x1/8" strip from a black rubber washer and stuffed this in between the edge of the cover and the rear window. Totally quiet now.

 

Noise: Mysterious back of the car rattling

Fix: Well, not a complete fix, but I found that removing the rear headrests has made a huge difference in the amount of noise back there.

Rant: Why can't any car companies engineer a headrest that doesn't rattle!??! My last car , Ford Taurus SHO, did the same thing. I expected more from a European car. Perhaps, Chrystler designed the headrests....

Owen

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PROBLEM:
Whenever my windows are down and going at highway speeds the passanger seat belt (when not in use) slams all around the side of the seat and door, driving me absolutely batty. not to mention risking scratching or eventually rubbing off the seat

SOLUTION:
simply put the seatbelt over the side bolster (might not work so well on the smaller-bolstered non-sport seats) so that it's facing frontwards and not to the side. no more smacking the seat.

ryan

 

Has anyone had any problem with the tubes that make up the armrest portion of the door panel? I get terrible buzzing from mine on rough road and when the stereo plays. I have tried removing the door panels, but the tubes are not open to the rear of the panel, so there is no point to glue or fill on the back. I'm sure it's the tubes because the buzzing stops when I put my arm on the arm rest pad. Unfortunately, I can't rest my other arm on the passenger armrest so I constantly have to deal with that noise. Help, please!!!!

 

Got tired of waiting for help. Took the door panels off, drilled holes into the armrest tubes (from the back where they wouldn't be seen), and filled the tubes with expanding polyurethane foam (Great Stuff Foam Brand). Futhermore, affixed dynamat to the inside of each door panel. No more tube buzz, the car rides much more quietly, and the H-K sounds better (great bass response now...cause I can crank it).

 

PROBLEM: Annoying rattle emanating from comewhere in the center of dash/console.

SOURCE: A loose lead (for MFSW?) under the small plastic cowl at the base of the center console was rattling against said cowl.

FIX: Removed the cowl and taped the lead to a section of wiring harness behind the cowl. Aahhh.

 

huh, i didn't see this thread, so im posting it now.

PROBLEM:
buzzing/ticking passenger door panel due to
air pressure inside the cabin when window/sunroof was opened.


SOURCE AND FIX: UPDATE, GOT BUZZING AGAIN TODAY,
I WILL CONTINUE TO INVESTIGATE, but here is wat I tried
below:

* think* i found the source of the buzzing inside the door.

When the weathering seal that wraps around the sheetmetal
panel oval opening inside the door moves inwards/outwards
aginst the plastic door panel, the friction made a
ticking/buzzing noise inside the seal itself. i peeled off the
seal (just friction mounted), put duct tape around the metal
oval opening all the way around the primeter as to thicken the
sheetmetal, then put the seal back on over the tape. much
less ticking noise while pushed/pulled back with my fingers.

I also taped down a couple loose black styrofoam pieces inside
the door just incase.

put the doorpanel back on, took it for a test drive, and as
far as I could tell the noise is gone.


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03MCS IB/Blk: 123, Aerokit, R90, 16" TK5, 6CDMP3, and more.